Hey guys below i will list my build, ive got about 300 miles on my motor and im almost ready to get it tuned. I asked the machine shop that built my motor to degree in my cams and when i got my motor back they were set at +5 ex +1 in but i did not receive a list of clearances so i dont really know whats safe so when my tuner plays with my cam gears. I dont exactly want to trust that +5ex and +1 intake is the middle of duration. My question is, if i use air to lock my vtec in and spin the motor by hand, would it be fine to make a chart of OK DEGREE SETTINGS. And if so what are popular degree setting that i should try. I dont want make a chart of un neccesary settings. Thanks for your time










94 integra
81mm b18c1 (honed & decked)
Ls crank (knife edged)
Ls Rods (resized for arp rod bolts)
ARP mains (line honed)
ARP rod bolts
ACL race bearings
p30 pistons (Honda Rings)

2 layer headgasket
B16a2 head (resurfaced)
3 angle valve job
port and polish
supertech valve seals
OEM valves
Skunk2 pro series valve springs & retainers
Skunk2 pro2 cams
adjustable cam gears (+5 ex +1 in)
rc550 injectors


bolt ons:
skunk2 IM
omni power 70mm TB
CAI
PLM rmf narrow REP
full 2.5'' exhaust no cat

Hondata s300


My goal is 200whp, what do u guys think?

 

if the cams were properly degreed you shouldnt have to play with the gears again

 

the whole reason id be going out of my way to do this is because im second guessing this guys work and i dont want to **** up my motor or waste money.

 

there's no way of knowing what settings you can use without pulling the motor apart. you can't measure v2v with the head on the block.

 

i kno but what i was saying was to lock vtec and spin motor by hand to see if the valves touch or not at a number of different cam degree settings. this way when it comes time to dyno, if i need to adjust i kno its safe to move them...? what do you think?

 

i think that is a terrible idea. either pull the head off or leave it alone.