Finally finished up all the wiring for this swap, and the motor wont start now. I need help as soon as possible and suggestions on what to do, Im going to tripple check all my connections, thanks ahead of time.

 

Im getting fuel/pressure. how do i check for spark?

 

Really, all you can do is check everything over and over until you figure it out. assuming,all your parts work properly, and you did everything correctly, and your car ran before; it could only be a few things. make sure all your wiring is soldered and connected right. That's where i had my problems my first time. take your time. GL

to check for spark, pull a spark plug wire off the spark plug.
stick a piece of wire down where the spark plug would go.
making sure NOT to touch the exposed end of the wire get it close to the valve cover ( or any ground source on the car)
have a friend turn the key
as it tries to turn over the wire should arc to the VC. if not then the problem is somewhere in your dizzy or wiring for dizzy GL
im not responsible for you or anyone hurting themselves. if your are unsure leave it for someone who knows.

 

Click the spark link in my signature.

Do all 4 injector clips have battery voltage?

Any CEL codes?

 

checked all wiring connections:
-not getting power to injectors
-only spark in the # 1 cyl. and is weak

 

BUMP need any help possible please.

 

Let's start with basics: what is your set up? Dx HF or Si/EX? Did you try and go obd1? We need more info. Also are you running saturated or low impedance injectors? If low impedance do you still have your resistor box wired in? If saturated, did you eliminate the resistor box and give them full power supply?

 

Ok sorry for lack of info, im on a base/std and the mpfi setup is from ex model, not sure of what you mean of the saturated impeadanc but i have a resistor box mounted and the injectors are wired to it in no particular order like all the write ups said, and like i said how do i get power to the injectors?

 

Did you also add in the 2 wires for the distributor? Also make sure you didn't mix the 2 white wires at the distributor

 

I got c1 and c2 to the distributor and had to switch the two white wires around, im pretty sure my distributor went bad already however it is under warranty so ill return it considering im not getting spark. But again what should i look for about my power problem to the injectors im going to completly redo allthe wiring and hopefully thats all it is. Thanks for the feedback

 

power for the injectors can be taken from either of the 2 yellow/black wires from the driver shock tower that originally went to the 2 dx injectors. the power wire will go to the resistor box and then the injectors will go wired into the resistor box.

 

Ok i detoured using the dx inj yellow/black wires and just wired a1 a3 a5 a7 to the injs and a15 to the resistor box which was supposedly to get me my fuel/power to inj in which im not and the c1 and c2 to get my spark in which im not

 

Check the main relay fuses. One may be blown.

 

Fuel/power? You mean power source to the resistor box, right

 

I checked all fuses but not the main relay its a new relay about a year old, could it have gone bad from this swap? And by fuel/ power i mean getting power to the injectors

 

Test whether the main relay plug receives voltage from 15A hood fuse 37 and 10A dash fuse 14. If so, resolder the main relay and go from there.

 

THIS SWAP HAS GONE COMPLETELY WRONG couldn't get it started and now my #4 cyl. is filled with coolant after i noticed my exhaust mani. leaking water. WTF DO I DO!!?

 

First things first, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TURN IT OVER until it's clear of all the fluid.

 

start over from scratch

 

As stated above the wiring side of the job as well as the parts swap of the job are pretty easy straight forward. With that said take your time and do it over from scratch. Do not leave the coolant in the cylinder too long, pull the plugs an spin it over before attempting to crank anymore before you hydrolock the motor. What is your source of coolant into the motor from this swap?

 

Im starting over from the beginning. luckily there was hardly any coolant in the cyl and it is all clear now. I am using a different wiring write-up and am going to use the old dpfi injector wires. running a3 and a7 to bay, before i was using a1 a3 a5 a7 and now not sure which two wires go to the place they were before i cut them which would be a1 and a5. there are 2 red and 2 yellow wires. I hope that makes sense.

 

Holy crap, man. I just saw this thread. I'm sorry you're having so many issues. I'm kinda glad I didn't attempt this myself, now. I was always scared of doing it, and now I know why. I wish I could help you with it, but I only know the stuff from the write-ups I've read, and they don't really help you if everything isn't working.

All the parts, except the ECM are from a '91 Sedan EX model. The ECM is from a '90 Wagovan. I'm pretty sure it was a 1.5L, but it shouldn't matter anyway. 1.5 and 1.6 intakes are the same.

 

Wtf are you talking about!? 1.5 and 1.6 intakes for an 88-91 civic/crx are completely different. A 90 wagovan most likely is still DPFI which will not be able to run an Si (1.6L intake).

OP, the 2 yellow and red wires eventually splice together before getting to the shock tower plug just make sure you use a red for either a1 or a3, and yellow for either a5 or a7. The run the other 2 injector wires to the ecu. If you need a plug n play set up Lmk
;P

 

The Wagovan was MPFI. That I know for sure. It's a PM6 ECM. Says it right on the sticker.

I thought the 1.5 and 1.6 intakes were the same. I hope that's not the issue. I would assume if it bolted up, though, that it's the correct intake.

 

Yes the wagon did come in mpfi and as a 4wd mpfi as well. But majority of the wagons came DPFI. Bolt patterns are the same on both intake manifolds (as well as all 92-95 civic regardless of trim) but that doesn't make them the same. The 1.5 is a 2 injector manifold where as the 1.6 is a 4 injector set up