camber kits question
dude help me out here
what are the main difference between the comptech
Camber adjuster kit - front (90-01 Integra)
vs.
this king/skunk2 camber kits?
i know S2 has more adjustment then comptech but S2 slips, (or so i've heard)???
would the comptech be any good for autox or a full track day?
i don't know if anyone that is using comptech, ingall style camber kit? are they any good vs. S2, A sport complete upper arm swap?
[Modified by Anderson, 3:34 AM 10/16/2002]
[Modified by Anderson, 3:34 AM 10/16/2002]
what are the main difference between the comptech
Camber adjuster kit - front (90-01 Integra)
vs.
this king/skunk2 camber kits?
i know S2 has more adjustment then comptech but S2 slips, (or so i've heard)???
would the comptech be any good for autox or a full track day?
i don't know if anyone that is using comptech, ingall style camber kit? are they any good vs. S2, A sport complete upper arm swap?
[Modified by Anderson, 3:34 AM 10/16/2002]
[Modified by Anderson, 3:34 AM 10/16/2002]
The Ingalls camber kits are made to correct camber of cars that have been lowered and gained excessive negative camber as a result.
The Skunk2 camber kits can be used to add positive or negative camber.
The Skunk2 camber kits can be used to add positive or negative camber.
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Roger Foo uses them, so they must be okay (or giving him good sponsorship $$)
. From everything I've heard you need to modify the Stink/2s to get them to work well when pushed hard (spin on track).
- Grind the paint away where the bolts clamp on, so the bolts are grabbing metal, not paint.
- Both Roger Foo and Warren recommend getting bigger bolts (and get rid of the allen wrench bolts and go with metric bolts (standard heads, whatever the technical term is)
Once you do that, they _should_ be good to go.
. From everything I've heard you need to modify the Stink/2s to get them to work well when pushed hard (spin on track). - Grind the paint away where the bolts clamp on, so the bolts are grabbing metal, not paint.
- Both Roger Foo and Warren recommend getting bigger bolts (and get rid of the allen wrench bolts and go with metric bolts (standard heads, whatever the technical term is)
Once you do that, they _should_ be good to go.
vision
mucho dinero but very good
gotta pay to play
mucho dinero but very good
gotta pay to play
anybody's got a pic of these??
how are they diff vs. Shitter2's?
My Skunk2 camber kit slipped... 
I changed out the allen bolts with some flange hex bolt + locking washers. And the new bolts are long enough so I can put a locking nut at the bottom. After this change, I've had 3 track events (couple off tracks too
) and they held up fine.

I changed out the allen bolts with some flange hex bolt + locking washers. And the new bolts are long enough so I can put a locking nut at the bottom. After this change, I've had 3 track events (couple off tracks too
) and they held up fine.
hmm..... i was thinking that if i dont get tein coil-overs to use spring/shock combo front and rear. I wanted to use the Skunk2 Camber Kit up front with the Comptech Rear Ingalls Camber Kit. But now you guys are saying that the Skunk2 is really Stink2! LoL. What should i do? Should i use Comptech Front and Rear Ingalls Camber Kit's?
I also have another question. When you are using coil-overs, do you need front and rear camber kits??? Dumb questions help noobs, it helps them get de-noobed!
I also have another question. When you are using coil-overs, do you need front and rear camber kits??? Dumb questions help noobs, it helps them get de-noobed!
i have had no problems with my skunk2 kit yet...i would have gone with a Cusco or a Vision if i had extra money at the time though. as far as the rear goes, get a J's racing or a SRR rear camber kit. I'm running a J's with no problems and the SRR is the same exact design.
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