I have a 91 civic wagon DX which had an existing z6 in it but they used the stock dx intake manifold and shoved a DX dizzy on the z6 head and somehow ran it. Well I am trying to correct alot of mistakes so I bought this conversion harness and followed the instructions to a T. Now that I have converted it over to MPFI provided by this harness and OBD1 the engine will turn over but it will not start. I have a brand new z6 head in place and the timing is correct. I have a brand new dizzy for a z6. The car turns over and after about 8 or 9 turns the check engine light comes on but once you cut the car off and cut it back on the check engine light goes off of course. This car ran before I used this conversion harness and I have checked and double checked everything I have done and then some (fuese, relays, fuel pump, ignition switch was replaced) etc and I am getting nowhere and extremely frustrated. ANY suggestions or inputs would be most helpful.

 

anyone?

 

what code comes on when the cel lights up?

 

its converted to obd1 so to my knowledge I can no longer pull the code. When it was obd0 it was read through the red flashes on the ecu and now I have a p28 in place

 

find someone with a Scanner.

 

I'm pretty sure it's going to point back to the crank sensor in the dizzy for some reason and that's why I am wondering if anyone has had any trouble out of these conversion harnesses. How would one go about scanning an obd0 car, it has no plug or at least thats what I thought

 

usually the harness will come with instructions on how to show the codes with dash flashes. least every other obd0-1 conversion harness i have used did that.

 

looks like thats what I am going to have to do

 

followed the directions to a T but what you guys are not understanding is that the check engine light is not flashing, it only comes on when the vehicle is trying to be turned over continuously. Its not a light that stay on or flashes. There is no green plug that you can jump to make it flash and now I do not have the stock ecu which showed the flashing ecu code. Come on guys is anyone here more experienced than this with obd0 stuff

 

How did u convert for the dizzy? Add the 2 wires or was there a dizzy jumper that was used? If the car won't turn over, I'm pretty sure you will have a check engine light.

When I make a dx to obd1 conversion I make it so you can still use the factory jumper to display codes on your cluster by counting the flashes

 

every obd0-1 harness i have dealt with had a nice little sheet and it showed which wires to ground to make the CEL flash on the dash. You crank the engine til the CEL comes on solid, then you LEAVE the power on and ground that wire to get the flash to see what code is being thrown. you DO NOT TURN THE KEY OFF. If you did NOT get a sheet with information about how to use this harness which is apparent, and you lack knowledge or experience....I took a minute and searched google for you, and it brought me right back to honda tech.

ground pin D4...that's the obd1 pin for the SCS.

 

No matter what the conversion harness made by, they all have the same thing, make you check your CEL the way the car originally came with, no matter OBD1 or OBD2. there gonna be two wire that not used in that conversion harness, at least that from rywire.

 

my harness is an HA Motorsports harness and they did tell me how check for a cell but its by using the green plug down on the passenger floor board and to jump that, well to my knowledge which is not the best with obd0 cars that plug does NOT even exist and didn't until obd1 came out so I don't have a way to do this

 

I will certainly try this and thank you. No I did not get a sheet but this is what I got from HA Motorsports "Check Engine Light (CEL) codes can be checked by jumping your
vehicle’s factory 2-pin timing adjusting connector. This
connector is near the driver’s side shock tower on 1988-1989
vehicles and in the passenger side interior foot-well area on
1990-1991 vehicles."

well to my knowledge what connector are the referring to on OBD0 because I have ripped that passenger side apart and found not one single connector anywhere. If it exists I am wondering if it has been cut. But regardless I am going to try what you suggested and thanks. I'll let you know what turns out

 

its there bc i have used it my self. look right under the dash next to the kick panel

 

that sucks that HA does not give good info with their jumpers. Hope you get it figured. I suspect you are on the right track in regards to the issue being distributor related though.

 

You were correct it was there but shoved to the top of the dash. Thanks for the help

 

Ok guys I really appreciate the help so far I have a code 41 and 16 so looks like I have a few mistakes I need to repair.

 

You can also ground pin D4 on the p28 (obd1) to body ground

 

yeah thats what I was going to do as someone had suggested that earlier until I actually found the plug shoved way up in the dash. From there I was able to pull the codes. I think my soldering could possibly be the issue. It's the first time I have done that and I am not sure how well I did so I am getting it all checked