I'm posting this here since I figure most of the best experienced all-motor guys on the board hang out in this forum.

I'm going to be completing my LS or B20 buildup (depending on if I end up swapping blocks with a friend who is going turbo) and I need to decide what I'm going to do for the bottom end.

1st - Pistons. I'm thinking of going with Endyn's Rollerwave pistons, 0.5mm over (81.5mm if I keep my LS, 84.5 if I get the b20). Would you recommend JE, SRP, Wesico, or other brands? For what reason?

2nd - Rods. I figure going with Eagle is a sure bet. Some feel stock are fine but I feel better going with Eagle rods. Any opinions?

3rd - CR. I am running crower 62404 cams, similar to an ITR vtec profile. I may consider also putting in a "race only" 405 intake cam which has 30t more lift and about 30deg more duration. I've got very good headwork and will also be upgrading to a custom short runner intake manifold paired with my Comptech USA 4-2-1 ITR header. Si or Crower valves will be installed during the buildup as well of course with a 3 angle valve job. I have readily available 94 octane fuel in my area. I believe that more is better and I should go for around 11.5-12:1.
- Will that be too high or too low or just right? I'd like to hear opinions judging on the rest of my setup. Does higher compression make an engine run lumpier or smoother?

4th - ARP head studs. I'm not too sure if most all motor guys go with ARP stuff but I guess its insurance thats not worth risking. Or do you feel stock is fine?

5th - Fuel. Will I need larger injectors with this type of power (I am expecting at least 170-180whp with the LS, 190-200whp with the b20, I don't want to start hearing ANY flames). I read some people saying get a bigger fuel pump, some say stock is fine, if you need more fuel go with better injectors. I've already got an FPR, should an S-AFC do fine for tuning or is a hondata absolutely necessary for a motor of this type?

Thanks for all the input, I feel we can make this a very informative thread to be used in the future.


[Modified by teg92, 11:20 PM 10/15/2002]


[Modified by teg92, 11:21 PM 10/15/2002]

 

1. Endyn = Wiseco

2. Eagle makes good rods - but there are lots to choose from. Anything forged is usually fine

3. 12:1 on 94 gas works great - but you will need tuning like Hondata

4. ARP head studs are great

 

Definetly invest in some larger injectors, go for RCs, 310cc, or larger depending on the cams you are running etc

Right now with my current setup, 2.0L i'm running 310cc injectors that are very nice and perfect for my setup

i'm also running
Endyn Rollerwaves
Eagle Rods
and ARP bottom end and rod bolts

 

1 - Wiseco
2 - Eagle
3 - 11.5-12:1. is a good area. I'd say 12:1-12.5:1 Depending on what ECU system your using, And I'd reccomend a J&S Safegaurd
4 - Stock is fine

 

ttt

 

1. CTR pistons or wiseco or JE for 84+
2. Stock for ctr or eagle for 84+
3. screw the custom manfold BS and just use an ITR manifold and TB and ditch that POS header. Use Stock valves. With either of those small cams 11.5:1
is plenty of compression.
4. ARP is nice if you pull the head a lot. otherwise stock bolts wil do the job
5. really low power goals... i though you had very good headwork???
Stock 94+ vtec pump works fine, but you will need injectors. in all lilihood larger than what you can control with a stock ecu and an afc.

 

Pistons: IB spec Weisco. Similar to the Endyn RW's but they are lighter.

Don't know much on the crower cams, but either way, you will want to ditch that Comptech 4-2-1 for something with a 2.5" collector. Don't get me wrong it's a great lil header- if you're staying near stock with stock exhaust. You need somthing to compliment the rest of your build.


[Modified by sackdz, 11:01 AM 10/16/2002]

 

I got the same setup with no complaints

 

Thanks for all the responses, Keep them coming!

Do you guys know of any N/A guys who have cracked their sleeves? I am wondering if a blockguard is necessary on a b18a1 or jdm b20b. TIA

 

NEVER use a blockguard

 

You are referring the cons of worse cooling? I was suggested to use it to reduce cylinder wall flex.

 

cyl wall flex? not a prevalent problem with the b18c, but with a b20 its best to
resleeve

 

Even for all motor? Am I better off ditching the 138cc's from going from a b18a1 to b20b to stick with the b18a1's stronger sleeves?

 

i said b18c, not b18a
but have not seen any problems with b18a either. just b20s

 

I was hoping you could elaborate on why a blockguard is a bad thing. Do you feel its bad for both N/A and FI applications? TIA