89 Honda Civic over-heating related question
Broke the timing belt on my civic dx about 2 weeks ago and when it broke, bent a whole bunch of valves.
Broke the motor down, replaced the head with one at a salvage yard after verifying the valves were all good. Replaced all of the gaskets with new ones, torque specs on head being 22 - 49 - 65 in that order, and replaced all of the sensors on the head and the water pump. I made sure I followed the specific instructions in the chiltons manual with regard to refilling the radiator and using the bypass valve to make sure there is no air in the system.
Car runs like a champ now (well sort of). The temperature gauge in the car indicates it is dang near red lining. There are no leaking fluids under the car whatsoever. I've since replaced the thermostat, several of the bypass hoses on the intake manifold, the upper radiator hose. Still over heating.
Hard wired the radiator fans to run constant when the ignition is on. Still overheating. Replaced the instrument cluster inside the car (yes an 89 crx 5 speed cluster will direct swap to an 89 dx 5 speed). Bad gauge now ruled out.
Other than a bit of "warbling" when I step off of the accelerator, the only noticeable effect that I seem to manage is that when I turn on the heater, the temperature needle drops to about mid-line. Not a problem in wintertime, but a pain in the 100+ degree Memphis heat.
I for the life of me can't seem to figure out why the system is indicating that the car is running hot (and when it gets near red line the car seems to lose a bit of pickup when stepping on the accelerator). Anyone have any thoughts?
Broke the motor down, replaced the head with one at a salvage yard after verifying the valves were all good. Replaced all of the gaskets with new ones, torque specs on head being 22 - 49 - 65 in that order, and replaced all of the sensors on the head and the water pump. I made sure I followed the specific instructions in the chiltons manual with regard to refilling the radiator and using the bypass valve to make sure there is no air in the system.
Car runs like a champ now (well sort of). The temperature gauge in the car indicates it is dang near red lining. There are no leaking fluids under the car whatsoever. I've since replaced the thermostat, several of the bypass hoses on the intake manifold, the upper radiator hose. Still over heating.
Hard wired the radiator fans to run constant when the ignition is on. Still overheating. Replaced the instrument cluster inside the car (yes an 89 crx 5 speed cluster will direct swap to an 89 dx 5 speed). Bad gauge now ruled out.
Other than a bit of "warbling" when I step off of the accelerator, the only noticeable effect that I seem to manage is that when I turn on the heater, the temperature needle drops to about mid-line. Not a problem in wintertime, but a pain in the 100+ degree Memphis heat.
I for the life of me can't seem to figure out why the system is indicating that the car is running hot (and when it gets near red line the car seems to lose a bit of pickup when stepping on the accelerator). Anyone have any thoughts?
If you've got the manual, i would run through the procedure to check that the gauge is getting the correct voltages from the sender.
If it's genuinely an overheating problem though, do you notice coolant rapidly bypassing your radiator cap and escaping into the overflow bottle?
Did you have any issue with the car before you swapped the head?
Have you got the mechanical and ignition timing correctly adjusted?
Just some things to look for, goodluck mate!
If it's genuinely an overheating problem though, do you notice coolant rapidly bypassing your radiator cap and escaping into the overflow bottle?
Did you have any issue with the car before you swapped the head?
Have you got the mechanical and ignition timing correctly adjusted?
Just some things to look for, goodluck mate!
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