Car seems to be bogging down in first until a certain RPM. And after shifted into second the car seems to jerk/stutter/something of that sort in lower RPMs. I've already gone ahead and bought and installed new air filter, fuel filter, oil filter and oil, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil, ignition, and battery. Also cleaned up the IACV and VTEC solenoid. Still seems to be doing it. I'm thinking its a clutch issue. I have a new Exedy OE replacement clutch kit but haven't had the time to put it in. Any thoughts on the issue would be greatly appreciated.

 

check your tps sensor

 

Noted. I'll check it in the morning. If this doesnt solve it I'll be having the car into the shop for valve adjustment, compression test, leakdown test, idle set, and timing set. Anything else I should be checking out?? I did just buy this car about two months ago with 132k on it and completely stock. Everything I've put on the car has been an upgrade.. No junk parts..

 

Check the ignition timing with a timing light.

 

TPS and map sensor checked out okay voltage wise. Tps may be a little off. At WOT it shows 5 volts. Voltmeter doesn't have decimals, only whole numbers for some reason.. Best way to unscrew TPS screws to adjust?? As its pretty close to the firewall.

Will be checking timing on Tuesday if all other advice doesn't help.

 

Might be the transmission's bearings (ISB, throwout, etc.), at least for my EX Civic it's that problem with the same symptoms.

 

I'd reverse the order of your priorities.

And you need a better digital multimeter or you have it set on the wrong voltage scale.

Any CEL codes?

 

Very well could be. Have been hearing a whir in neutral, pedal out. Pedal in, no whir.. Noticeable noise in all gears. Not crazy loud but noticeable. Putting new OE clutch kit in possibly this coming weekend.

Sorry Ron, Nobody I know has a timing light that I can borrow. Same goes for the multimeter, had to borrow it. Can probably borrow another that might have decimals. Not sure on CEL codes either. CEL is not on. And dont have a code scanner.. So yea. Stuck more or less until Tuesday. I'd do everything myself if I had the right equipment. But I have nothing but basic tools at the moment....

 

Did you do voltage measurements on the correct voltage scale?

Some auto parts stores offer free rentals of timing lights.

Does the CEL work? See Codes sticky.

 

No scale on this tester. This is what I got. Uncles been using it to wire his house im guessing. http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-T5-600-V.../dp/B0006Z3GZU

I'll check into that. I'd rather do it than spend money for a mechanic to do it.

And yea the CEL does work. Pulled MAP sensor. CEL came on. Reset ECU. CEL went away.

Also, Any recommendations on a good OBD-II Code Reader? I'd like to pick one up so I dont have to clear the ECU all the time.

 

You'll find a diagram in the FAQs sticky.

For no cost, you can pull the codes yourself by jumping the service connector. When you need the OBD2 codes, most auto parts store do this free of charge.

You just have to remove the 7.5A Back Up fuse for a few minutes.

 

I have honda civic 97 and i cant keep it at a steady speed, i already cleaned the throttle body and the IACV too and still the same. How do you know when your IACV dont work momore?

 

Jumped the service connector and put the key to the II position. CEL stays solid. No flashing codes. Normal?

 

The accuracy of this multimeter is only 1V. For car work, you want to use a meter with 0.01V accuracy in the 12V range.

 

If the CEL was off when the connector was not jumped, then this means that no codes are thrown. This is all explained in the Codes sticky.

 

Must have missed that when I read through that sticky. As per the multimeter, I'll be getting one of correct measurement later today. If the TPS is off in voltage, is there a way to correct it?

P.s. Thanks for all the help thus far Ron. Greatly appreciated kind sir.

 

Make sure the output voltage is close to 0.5V at closed throttle. The screws securing the TPS to the TB can be loosened and the TPS can be rotated to adjust the voltage output.

When the voltage at closed throttle reads about 0.5V, the voltage at WOT should read about 4.5V.

Finally, there should be relatively smooth voltage transitions as the throttle plate is slowly opened.

 

Okay. Hardest part will be getting to those screws. Close the the firewall and have mods bolted there. Hopefully a stubby will fit back there, not really in the mood to take the TB off since its raining off and on..

 

Actually, it wasn't clearly stated. I have now added this to the Helpful Tips section.

You'll need to remove the TB if the TPS is stock and then Dremel a groove into the head of the screw to allow removal with a screwdriver. A replacement TB gasket only costs about $2.

 

Got those voltage readings. As follows:

5.05v from TPS harness.
.50v closed throttle
4.61v WOT

5.05v from MAP harness
2.8v MAP connected to harness and attached to TB.

All readings taken with the key turned to the II position. Should the TPS be adjusted as it is above correct voltage of 4.50v? If I do have to its not a problem. Just need the gasket and for it to stop raining..

 

The TPS voltage readings are fine.

The MAP sensor has three wires - two have voltage and the third is ground. In the unplugged the connector, do two terminals read 5V and one reads basically no volts?

Get a timing gun. See diagram in FAQs sticky.

 

Got the MAP readings by disconnecting the harness from the MAP sensor and probing the harness connector in the specified wires stated in repair manual. Came up with the 5.05v.

I was reading through the timing section of the manual and it said to make sure CEL is not on, properly adjusted valve clearances, and proper idle should all be checked before adjusting the timing. Will see about "renting" a timing light from AutoZone. Valves do tick and idle has been very low (anywhere from 250 to 500). Have cleaned the IACV. It doesn't make much sense to me because if I turn the headlights on it idles properly. But if I turn the A/C on it idles sporadically. Feel like its killing the car. so I should get all that taken care of first?

 

Have you inspected the spark plugs? If not, do so.

The FAQs sticky has a diagram for adjusting the idle speed.

Your idle speed is too low. When the headlights are turned on, the ECU ramps up the idle speed. That why the idle improves.

Is the sporadic behavior of the idle with the A/C on related to the compressor clutch engaging and disengaging? Does the A/C work well? Does the condenser fan run when the A/C is on?

 

Two wires have voltage, right? Did the ground wire work?

 

Pulled spark plugs out yesterday. They look good. No oil or anything on them. Basically everything is new. New plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil and ignition.

Yes, you've nailed that. Idle jumps around when compressor clutch engages/disengages. A/C does work, and does blow cool air, not as cool as id like it to be though. Condenser fan runs the whole time A/C is on. That's normal I believe.