i need to know if someone can help me with what wiring i need to just make the engine run i've gutted the whole car and kept all harnesses but i only want to keep the ones that make the engine run

 

Use the stock harness to run vehicle just might have to extend a couple wire that's all

 

i dont want to keep like the wiring to my ac and ect just what makes it run going for a clean look im not running the ac ,powersteering ect just the wiring to make the engine run and i was told to use a automatic ecu because the manual ecu has a rev limiter

 

Whoever told you that is an idiot....all stock ecu's have redlines governors and all.....and to what your not running in the car the ac stuff has a plug under the dash....I'd say perform a wiring harness tuck SURGERY on her and just remove wat you don't want. And for the ecu part order a chipped ecu from phearable.net and order it to your specs.

 

alright so basically just leave all the wiring there and dont cut just tuck all the stuff im not using is what your sayng . thanks on the ecu issue

 

You will need the complete engine harness. Then you remove the wires for the components you have deleted.

Best thing to do would be to get yourself a Helms manual for the chassis and engine that you are using. In this case you would want the 94-97 CD Accord manual and the 93-95 Prelude manual as well. then you can cross reference what wires go with what sensor/component.


I'm pretty sure that all the Accord ECUs have rev limiters. Now when it comes to speed limiters, I don't think the H22A1 P13 has one. The stock Non VTEC Accord ECU has a speed limiter, where as the EX Accord ECU does not. I think this maybe what they meant. Besides, you want to run the ECU that matches your engine and transmission. If you want to remove all of this stuff you would have to run a chipped ECU or standalone unit.

 

what do you think would be the best ecu for the h22a1 and is it better to run my f22 tranny with h22a1 or should i use the h22 one

 

so basically i can trace all my wires from my ac , air bags , and stereo back to there orgin and remove them without getting a headache with the engine and thank yall for your help this is my first swap and im trying to make my car as light as possible

 

Yes that is what I mean ac components have their own wiring harness just find it and remove it

 

Oh it can be a headache at times if you don't have a manual and don't label the wires. Also remember to take your time, patience is also a key factor.

PM sent

 

thanks for everyones help on everything what is the best way to go about what ecu i should use does is there a big diffrence and which one would you rcomend money is no issue ,whats the best bang for the buck

 

If you would like to really simplify your entire harness you can invest on a mil spec harness from Rywire. This harness will plug directly to your ECU and go strait to the engine with all new military grade wiring and connectors which will much more reliable than factory 20+year old wire harness. Though they are a bit of an investment it is well worth it!

If you H22 is 100% factory stock a factory H22 ecu will do the trick, however if you have performance modifications or want to really pull out some power out of your setup I would recommend investing an engine management system to allow you to tune and optimize fuel and ignition maps such as an AEM EMS Series 2 which will completely replace the factory ecu and plug directly to your ecu plugs for total control of all your engine parameters as well many other beneficial features such as launch control, closed loop operation, traction control and much more.

 

so thats the wiring harness i need to make the engine run without having my other stuff i dont need connected to it like ac ect

 

yes it will allow you to eliminate everything else and keep only what is need to run the engine.

 

Yup. For a custom harness all you have to do is tell them what components you are removing.

As far as I know the only thing MIL spec on your harness would be the connector that goes between the cabin and the engine bay if you are keeping stock engine sensors. Besides the stock Tyco connectors have lasted for 20+ years.

Why spend $1000 on a MIL spec harness and aftermarket sensors when you don't need to?....... I'd think that one over for a little bit! I guess if money is no issue and you have it burning a hole in your pocket....why not spend it!

 

thank you all for the help i really appreciate it,Im at work right know and i have to go pick up 20 yds of carbon fiber after work ,,,im doing the inside of the car in total carbon fiber to give it a clean look and still be light as possible, building my carbon dash first instead of using the stock dashthat i took out.yet thanks again everybody for everything it was very helpful

 

Actually the wire itself is military grade which can support far more voltage and amperage than the standard wiring used on a factory Honda harnesses. Being so the wiring used can be a thinner gauge with out any issues allowing to be a much lighter and more compact harness. Not to mention it is also much more resistant to high temps and chemicals. Pricing is actually not to bad Rywire sells them starting at $650

 

Smoke & Mirrors!

OK so they are Teflon coated, rated to 200°C and lighter.... I'm pretty sure that the OEM wires are already more than capable of handling what they are required to handle..... other wise all Honda cars would be catching on fire, constantly misfiring and having major sensor signal issues..... Still don't really even see that on 20 year old Honda harnesses........

Again, if you have the money go for it. IMO labeling them MIL Spec harnesses is just a sales pitch. Kind of like saying a part makes 15-20% over stock and those numbers are only seen on the retailers dyno sheets.........

 

There is really nothing to argue with only weight savings vs cost per ft over the stock gauge wiring. If you are willing to invest on your project with the right components such as a Mil Spec engine harness, it is worth while. With the weight saving, durability, reliability, proven performance and aesthetics it is up to yourself to weight out if it is an option for your project.

 

Spoken like a true salesman At least you seem to know more than the other reps Bisi had in the past.

 

Hahaha thank you for the compliment. I am just giving my opinions from my past experiences.

 

 

i went on rywire last night i think im going to ge the mil spec harness its not as bad as i thought and they give you extra options on it to that i will get like the firewall plug i just got my carbon fiber dash race dash in last night and it looks sick thanks for all your guys help ther was one last thing what tranny would be best for my h22a1 and the cost and if i did a port and polish how much extra hp would i gain