it is a 1990 civic sedan 1.5 with 58,000 miles on it, had r12 system and was working fine, driving one day just stopped, i assumed it had a leak so no wanting to buy r12 i converted to 134r,checked for leaks found none held 30lbs of vacuum for over 1/2 hr so I recharged system with correct amount of freon and oil, clutch engaged fans came on strong but still have warm air, a friend said probably has a blockage. this was my 93 year old neighbors and 58,000 is correct. high side was low about 70lbs low side was high. i did get low side to 35
and high to 100 but still was hot. any help with this i also did see fluid through siteglass. can compressor be bad?

 

Some people have had trouble after a recharge with the compressor not running. sometimes you have to jump out the compressor clutch to kick it on then the system runs. Not saying it is the same problem for sure but its quick and simple to try.

 

So lets see...

1- Exactly how much R134a did you put in?
2- What style of compressor do you have (Sanden or Matsushita)?
3- Exactly how much oil did you put in?
4- What brand/type/viscosity oil did you use (Mineral, PAG, Ester, 46, 100, 150)?
5- did you replace the receiver/drier (canister w/ the sight glass on it)

From the little you've mentioned, it seems your low pressure is high and high pressure is low. These are typically signs either the compressor is bad or the Expansion valve is bad. If you drained the old compressor oil before replacing it, and the oil wasn't black, I doubt the compressor has died. An expansion valve is a lot cheaper so I might give that a try 1st.

It could also be not enough R134a. According to Sanden, a retrofit should use only 5% less by weight of R134 vs R12. On the EF that means 800-850g (almost 3 cans). And compressor oil should only be "Premium Double End-Capped PAG-46" (4oz/Sanden or 5oz/Matsushita).

BTW: You must replace the receiver drier. The old one has a desicant that isn't compatible with R134a. They no longer make this kind of desicant, so anything new you buy SHOULD be R134a compatible. Four Seasons brand is only $15 from Summit Racing.

 

The oil used in R-12 systems isn't compatible with oil used in R-134. There are some that work with both, but chances are your system didn't have it if it was still R-12

 

thanks Ill change the drier and expansion valve and retry oil was just under 5oz and 26 oz of 134. thanks again

 

Man, I just re-read that and it doesn't make sense. What I mean is that R-12 refrigerant uses mineral oil, R-134 uses PAG oil. Both can use Ester oil.

If you kept the oil oil in the system when you converted to R-134, the new refrigerant doesn't mix with the mineral oil so it doesn't circulate throughout the system, which can starve the compressor of oil.

Found this site which may be helpful:
http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/82/

 

i dropped glove box and started to take clips off box for expansion valve anyone have a shortcut ot opening box without removing the whole thing any trick would be helpful thanks

 

thanks was really helpful

 

You have to unbolt the evaporator from the two AC lines coming through the fire wall. That means evacuating the system. Then you can remove the straps & bolts/nuts holding the box into car. Disconnect the thermo-switch from the wire harness. Now the entire box drops down and pulls out. At that point you remove the clips and screws to take the box apart and get to the evaporator core & expansion valve.

 

Is this you?
http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.ph...=unread#unread

asked the same question. You can read my response there.