Has anyone used this tool set for their front end?
I'm thinking of buying this set for use on my Civic and, well anything else that may come up in the future with friend's/relative's vehicles. Do you guys see any blaring reason as to not buy this set for ball joint replacement?
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front...pr_product_top
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front...pr_product_top
Yeah, I have a fork to separate the ball joints, but it seems to always tear the boot, that may be my technique more than the tool though. But I'm looking to replace the ball joint (press out) as well.
But I'm looking to replace the ball joint (press out) as well.
This^ tool guarantees boot damage. Don't use it.
Get this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
Get this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
This^ tool guarantees boot damage. Don't use it.
Get this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
Get this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
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A friend was trying to get his Expedition to the shipping center to send it off back to the mainland from Hawaii after getting orders to the east coast. He had been having problems with the engine not turning over when he'd turn the key. A mechanic had him replace the ECU and various other parts on it to the tune of over 1200 bucks.
Anyway, he had to get it to the shipping center in an hour before their flight off of the island....it ended up being the solenoid and a tap from my trust craftsman hammer (temporarily) alleviated the issue.
In other words, when in doubt knock the crap out of it with a hammer.
Anyway, he had to get it to the shipping center in an hour before their flight off of the island....it ended up being the solenoid and a tap from my trust craftsman hammer (temporarily) alleviated the issue.
In other words, when in doubt knock the crap out of it with a hammer.
I just borrow tools I dont have....
ie. from places like autozone
or places like lowes. I buy them, use em, then clean em up and give em back. Its a tool loaner program of sorts. Autozone is just alot more unfront about it.
ie. from places like autozone
or places like lowes. I buy them, use em, then clean em up and give em back. Its a tool loaner program of sorts. Autozone is just alot more unfront about it.
Back when I worked on helicopters in the Marine Corps, if you used the wrong tool ie a pair of pliers versus a wrench, you'd be doing the job again just so you'd learn to use the proper tool for the job. Talk about learning fast to do it right the first time and to ask questions before you start a job you're uncertain about.
Back when I worked on helicopters in the Marine Corps, if you used the wrong tool ie a pair of pliers versus a wrench, you'd be doing the job again just so you'd learn to use the proper tool for the job. Talk about learning fast to do it right the first time and to ask questions before you start a job you're uncertain about.
The tool your looking for is called a Tie Rod Lifter. It's like $12 on Amazon.

It's really the only tool you need when working on Honda front suspensions. Just don't tigthen the thing so much it crushes the stud where the cotter pin holes are. I usually keep a nut on the stud while using this tool. As long as the nut keeps spinning freely, I keep tightening the tool. Once the nut starts to bind up from the stud getting squished, I back off with the tool. You will find the nut now spins freely again. After a few attempts, even the most stubborn ball joint will pop out loose.
If you do end up mushrooming the ball joint stud (nut won't go on smooth), you can simply Dremel the threads off the stud from the cotter pin hole down to the tip. Then your castle nut will thread back on just fine.
BTW: These tools will push the ball joint boot further up the stud as you push the fork in. The boot is only rubber and will easily slide back down the stud after your done. Sometimes it's a good idea to replace the boot if it's already torn, or simply pop it off to re-grease the 20yr old ball joint. Upper & Lower ball joint boots are liek $1-2 each from Honda. The tie-rod's ball-joint boots are $5 each for some stupid reason.

It's really the only tool you need when working on Honda front suspensions. Just don't tigthen the thing so much it crushes the stud where the cotter pin holes are. I usually keep a nut on the stud while using this tool. As long as the nut keeps spinning freely, I keep tightening the tool. Once the nut starts to bind up from the stud getting squished, I back off with the tool. You will find the nut now spins freely again. After a few attempts, even the most stubborn ball joint will pop out loose.
If you do end up mushrooming the ball joint stud (nut won't go on smooth), you can simply Dremel the threads off the stud from the cotter pin hole down to the tip. Then your castle nut will thread back on just fine.
BTW: These tools will push the ball joint boot further up the stud as you push the fork in. The boot is only rubber and will easily slide back down the stud after your done. Sometimes it's a good idea to replace the boot if it's already torn, or simply pop it off to re-grease the 20yr old ball joint. Upper & Lower ball joint boots are liek $1-2 each from Honda. The tie-rod's ball-joint boots are $5 each for some stupid reason.
The tool your looking for is called a Tie Rod Lifter. It's like $12 on Amazon.

It's really the only tool you need when working on Honda front suspensions. Just don't tigthen the thing so much it crushes the stud where the cotter pin holes are. I usually keep a nut on the stud while using this tool. As long as the nut keeps spinning freely, I keep tightening the tool. Once the nut starts to bind up from the stud getting squished, I back off with the tool. You will find the nut now spins freely again. After a few attempts, even the most stubborn ball joint will pop out loose.
If you do end up mushrooming the ball joint stud (nut won't go on smooth), you can simply Dremel the threads off the stud from the cotter pin hole down to the tip. Then your castle nut will thread back on just fine.
BTW: These tools will push the ball joint boot further up the stud as you push the fork in. The boot is only rubber and will easily slide back down the stud after your done. Sometimes it's a good idea to replace the boot if it's already torn, or simply pop it off to re-grease the 20yr old ball joint. Upper & Lower ball joint boots are liek $1-2 each from Honda. The tie-rod's ball-joint boots are $5 each for some stupid reason.

It's really the only tool you need when working on Honda front suspensions. Just don't tigthen the thing so much it crushes the stud where the cotter pin holes are. I usually keep a nut on the stud while using this tool. As long as the nut keeps spinning freely, I keep tightening the tool. Once the nut starts to bind up from the stud getting squished, I back off with the tool. You will find the nut now spins freely again. After a few attempts, even the most stubborn ball joint will pop out loose.
If you do end up mushrooming the ball joint stud (nut won't go on smooth), you can simply Dremel the threads off the stud from the cotter pin hole down to the tip. Then your castle nut will thread back on just fine.
BTW: These tools will push the ball joint boot further up the stud as you push the fork in. The boot is only rubber and will easily slide back down the stud after your done. Sometimes it's a good idea to replace the boot if it's already torn, or simply pop it off to re-grease the 20yr old ball joint. Upper & Lower ball joint boots are liek $1-2 each from Honda. The tie-rod's ball-joint boots are $5 each for some stupid reason.

I usually borrow tools from Kragens or Pep Boys. To separate the ball joints, I use the jack and the ratchet trick.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/popping-front-lower-balljoints-other-random-observations-887859/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/popping-front-lower-balljoints-other-random-observations-887859/
There's only two tools anyone needs. A big ****ing hammer, and duct tape. If it moves and it shouldn't, use the duct tape. If it doesn't and it should, use the hammer. Problem solved!
Wd40, a hammer and some ducktape is all you ever need. If it doesnt move then wd40 it and beat it with the hammer. But yea i just go to autozone when i need a tool i dont have. Its basically free besides gas







