This code is for lockup solenoid valve b malfunction or a wiring issue. Ive tested the solenoid and it clicks when 12 volts are applied to both sides of the solenoid, but when i check for the ohm reading the manual calls for 14 - 25 im not seeing it. If it clicks when power is applied but doesnt show the right ohm rating, what is going on? With this code the d4 light blinks non stop and the trans will sometimes go into reverse in park and only go forward in 2nd and sometimes every gear is neutral on a restart. I just put in a NEW (from a factory) torque converter supposedly tested as "good" This code wasnt there prior BUT i did find i yanked out my coolant temp sensor connector and another wire when removing the trans. ( i fixed both problems and bought a new ect sensor so i have no codes for those) I mention this because iw onder if i could have yanked a wire to the solenoid? but everything appears fine and the wire feels tight int he connector. Can the wire still be not making connection in the connector? A million questions here, i know. This problem sucks as i need my car...I ONLY have the p1758 code.

 

Give details. Where did you measure resistance of the solenoid? What was the reading?

 

it says to measure resistance in the a/b of the connector of the solenoid plug. So thats what i did. i get like 1 ohm.
When battery is applied to both solenoid connector pins a/b it clicks on both.

Even if i clear the code and only put the car in ignition position 2 the code flashes instantly almost as a bad ecu would. If i clear the code it comes back instantly every single time as well. I dug deep into the wiring to that lockup solenoid and see nothing broken on the ecu side or the connector side. If the solenoid is unplugged or plugged in the code STAYS.

 

You need to do the follow up open and short tests of the solenoid wires.

Also, if you unplug the solenoid itself, what is the Ohm reading across the two sensor terminals?

 

GIVE DETAILS. State how the multimeter is set (post a picture) and exactly how you are doing the tests. The question is whether this is a real Ohm reading or user error.

 

Ok i grounded the black one to the battery... used the red to probe the sensor terminals. No matter what setting its on i get no reading from the sensor terminals.... In ANY ohm setting.
This is a brand new ohm meter and when put on the battery it works fine. When put in the injector plugs it reads fine etc...

Doesnt specify in the manual if it should be grounded to the battery or just the black and red across the sensor terminals.. I tried it both ways. Always leads me to 0 in ANY setting.

 

What Ohm scale are you using? Not all will give you the correct answer.

Above^, you are testing for a short at the sensor and are not finding one. Do the same short tests at ECU D3 and B20.

Also measure resistance between D3 and B20, as well as between the two sensor terminals.

 

When checking the ecu which setting do i put this ohm meter on? Heres a pic of it.

When checking the sensor terminals do i use the SAME setting as when checking the ecu pins?

http://image.made-in-china.com/4f0j0...ter-DT830B.jpg

N/m i found a youtube tutorial lulz, spoon feed me ron! Ok i will do the test and get back to you.

 

All Ohm tests are done at the 200 Ohm scale (not 200K).

 

b20 and d2 (my manual says d2 wtf?) i measured correctly now and there is no voltage between these 2.

Resistance check between d2 b20 and b22 i have no resistance on d2 no resistance on b20 and weird low readings on b22...

On the sensor terminals i got it right finally and i got 15 for resistance. So thats in spec.

 

You are testing the wrong ECU pins:

 

That's the wrong code for a different transmission solenoid. One digit difference can make all the difference in the world.

 

Ron, I had a guy come over whos very experienced with hondas and he did the tests for me and checked all the fuses and found nothing wrong. Just to be sure he pulled the wires from those ecu pins and ran new wires and the d4 light STILL blinks with the code. He checked all solenoids and all are working well. He checked the shift cable and says it seems positioned weird but thats all he said. What now? Is the ecu fried? If so why would the ecu fry when the battery was unplugged and all i did was change the torque converter? same code still p1758.

 

Try swapping in a known good ECU.

 

Just because a solenoid clicks doesn't mean it is working properly. Improper ohlms in a solenoid will cause it to malfunction. I would see about replacing the solenoid by the sounds of it if a known good ecu doesn't resolve your problem.

 

I fixed the problem. Its none of that crap. It was simply a loose wire that i finally found that oddly wasnt related to the trans but the starter, even though the car started up fine. Thanks honda service manual , for helping me chase the wind.

New problem now is the car goes NOWHERE. In every gear i put it in the torque converter doesnt lock up. Every gear is neutral. No more check engine light or d4 light though. Wonderful. So it only goes backwards in park and forward in 2nd when there was an electrical problem; but now that all codes are cleared it doesnt move at all.

 

?What wire? How does a starter wire affect the transmission? Please give details for the benefit of other members.

Have you adjusted the shift linkage as per service manual?

 

The little wire right next to the starter ground they were crossed and one was hanging by a thread, i also found that the back of the solenoid connector where the green/black wire was , was hanging by a thread. Whats odd is when fixing the green black wire i still had the blinking d4 light until i uncrossed the starter wire with the trans ground wire. Possibly shorting something out? ha i hate wiring thats all i know. I situated all the wires now and put electrical tape on and the d4 and cel has stayed off.

Before i jack the car back up, how does the shift cable affect the car not moving in any gear? The shifter moves through all the gears but very slippery like and i dont get that slight jolt feeling of the torque converter locking up to make the car move, the rpms just kinda hang high and then come back down. So the car shifts into the gears on the shifter but all gears are neutral. This can still be a shift cable problem? I thought if the shifter is moving from p to r to n to d4 etc then the shift cable was set correctly? If im wrong id be glad to know it, so i can go out there and try to adjust it properly.

 

The starter does not have aground wire, so I'll assume you're talking about the starter solenoid wire. Are you saying this wire was swapped with the lock up solenoid wire?

Adjust the shift cable and go from there.

 

I just had a similar problem and had to add transmission fluid then it moved. Check engine light is still on though. It ran rough after 15 min flashing d4 stopped and started driving better. Going to add more fluid and retry hopefully that's it because it's been a pain