Built F22s
Are there any on the board?How much power can be made.
Can someone give me the rundown on F22b1 F22b2 I know F22 is the JDM engine..160hp..
I'm a F22a1 212k ticking time bomb but pulls hard still but will soon be swapped to a really great bargain, ill post details later on if wanted.
What could I expect to get for stockengine.? i'd probably sell it for 100bux?.or just keep it im thinking and practice engine performance on it..
Can someone give me the rundown on F22b1 F22b2 I know F22 is the JDM engine..160hp..
I'm a F22a1 212k ticking time bomb but pulls hard still but will soon be swapped to a really great bargain, ill post details later on if wanted.
What could I expect to get for stockengine.? i'd probably sell it for 100bux?.or just keep it im thinking and practice engine performance on it..
I've got a F22B2 I'm planning on building up. It's got 126k on it and runs like new. It's mainly that the DOHC engines are very popular, so parts for our engines are harder to come by.
It's been shown that DOHC doesn't give you THAT much gain over SOHC. The F22 is similar to the H22. I'm going to see if I can't bore it out to 2.5L. I've seen a guy who did that to his H22. It looked really nice.
Basically, if you're going to build up a stock motor, you're going to have to have compaines do some custom work for you, and you're going to have to be very knowledgable about motors. It can be done though.
It's been shown that DOHC doesn't give you THAT much gain over SOHC. The F22 is similar to the H22. I'm going to see if I can't bore it out to 2.5L. I've seen a guy who did that to his H22. It looked really nice.
Basically, if you're going to build up a stock motor, you're going to have to have compaines do some custom work for you, and you're going to have to be very knowledgable about motors. It can be done though.
He's right, except I don't recommend an overbore beyond 4mm (89mm bore overall). That's good for 2.4L of displacement.
You can get a significant hp increase simply from raising the stock compression from 8.8:1 to 11:1, an 'estimated' 22 or so, and that's not taking into account the added bore. Also use come good Crower rods.
Port and polish the entire head, and overbore your intake and exhaust valve by 1mm to increase flow. Also, get a 3" prelude throttle body and have it portmatched to your intake manifold plenum (which should also be ported and polished). This allows more air to enter your engine, which is an absolute must with a n/a build. Pay special attention to your valvetrain... you need better springs and lighter valves, Ferrea makes both. Regrind the cam to a more aggressive setting, making sure to add a lobe for the second intake valve to open at lower rpms.
Use a mandrel-bent 3" pipe for your cold-air intake. Purchase a K&N cone filter for the end of it.
Design your exhaust carefully. You need maximum flow... I recommend either building your own header with equal length 1 3/4" primaries, 2" secondaries, and a 2.5" collector, or take an off-the-shelf aftermarket brand and weld in a 2.5" collector. Make a 2.5" exhaust fromt he header back, welding inline a high-flow catalytic converter if you have emissions in your state. Put a nice low-key muffler on that.
All of this with a good ignition and fuel setup can net you 250hp if done correctly, and will cost you $5k alone for the machine work. Golden Eagle had quoted me that price for the same build which I am doing. I'll be complete by April, with luck.
You can get a significant hp increase simply from raising the stock compression from 8.8:1 to 11:1, an 'estimated' 22 or so, and that's not taking into account the added bore. Also use come good Crower rods.
Port and polish the entire head, and overbore your intake and exhaust valve by 1mm to increase flow. Also, get a 3" prelude throttle body and have it portmatched to your intake manifold plenum (which should also be ported and polished). This allows more air to enter your engine, which is an absolute must with a n/a build. Pay special attention to your valvetrain... you need better springs and lighter valves, Ferrea makes both. Regrind the cam to a more aggressive setting, making sure to add a lobe for the second intake valve to open at lower rpms.
Use a mandrel-bent 3" pipe for your cold-air intake. Purchase a K&N cone filter for the end of it.
Design your exhaust carefully. You need maximum flow... I recommend either building your own header with equal length 1 3/4" primaries, 2" secondaries, and a 2.5" collector, or take an off-the-shelf aftermarket brand and weld in a 2.5" collector. Make a 2.5" exhaust fromt he header back, welding inline a high-flow catalytic converter if you have emissions in your state. Put a nice low-key muffler on that.
All of this with a good ignition and fuel setup can net you 250hp if done correctly, and will cost you $5k alone for the machine work. Golden Eagle had quoted me that price for the same build which I am doing. I'll be complete by April, with luck.
Thats good news to hear of the potential of the engine. I'm going to be buying the block from a guy for 400bux- with 80k on it,got a little info about it. Had work done at 65k such as Port n Polished/Head milled, JE Pistons. Will find out more about it when i run into him again but I think its worth it right ..
As for fuel setup what is needed to upgraded, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail.filter?
As for fuel setup what is needed to upgraded, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail.filter?
and overbore your intake and exhaust valve by 1mm to increase flow.
anyone making stainless oversizes?[Modified by GimpyAccord, 3:19 PM 10/16/2002]
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He's right, except I don't recommend an overbore beyond 4mm (89mm bore overall). That's good for 2.4L of displacement.
You can get a significant hp increase simply from raising the stock compression from 8.8:1 to 11:1, an 'estimated' 22 or so, and that's not taking into account the added bore. Also use come good Crower rods.
Port and polish the entire head, and overbore your intake and exhaust valve by 1mm to increase flow. Also, get a 3" prelude throttle body and have it portmatched to your intake manifold plenum (which should also be ported and polished). This allows more air to enter your engine, which is an absolute must with a n/a build. Pay special attention to your valvetrain... you need better springs and lighter valves, Ferrea makes both. Regrind the cam to a more aggressive setting, making sure to add a lobe for the second intake valve to open at lower rpms.
Use a mandrel-bent 3" pipe for your cold-air intake. Purchase a K&N cone filter for the end of it.
Design your exhaust carefully. You need maximum flow... I recommend either building your own header with equal length 1 3/4" primaries, 2" secondaries, and a 2.5" collector, or take an off-the-shelf aftermarket brand and weld in a 2.5" collector. Make a 2.5" exhaust fromt he header back, welding inline a high-flow catalytic converter if you have emissions in your state. Put a nice low-key muffler on that.
All of this with a good ignition and fuel setup can net you 250hp if done correctly, and will cost you $5k alone for the machine work. Golden Eagle had quoted me that price for the same build which I am doing. I'll be complete by April, with luck.
You can get a significant hp increase simply from raising the stock compression from 8.8:1 to 11:1, an 'estimated' 22 or so, and that's not taking into account the added bore. Also use come good Crower rods.
Port and polish the entire head, and overbore your intake and exhaust valve by 1mm to increase flow. Also, get a 3" prelude throttle body and have it portmatched to your intake manifold plenum (which should also be ported and polished). This allows more air to enter your engine, which is an absolute must with a n/a build. Pay special attention to your valvetrain... you need better springs and lighter valves, Ferrea makes both. Regrind the cam to a more aggressive setting, making sure to add a lobe for the second intake valve to open at lower rpms.
Use a mandrel-bent 3" pipe for your cold-air intake. Purchase a K&N cone filter for the end of it.
Design your exhaust carefully. You need maximum flow... I recommend either building your own header with equal length 1 3/4" primaries, 2" secondaries, and a 2.5" collector, or take an off-the-shelf aftermarket brand and weld in a 2.5" collector. Make a 2.5" exhaust fromt he header back, welding inline a high-flow catalytic converter if you have emissions in your state. Put a nice low-key muffler on that.
All of this with a good ignition and fuel setup can net you 250hp if done correctly, and will cost you $5k alone for the machine work. Golden Eagle had quoted me that price for the same build which I am doing. I'll be complete by April, with luck.
And weirder of all.....I already have a CAI made from 2.5" mendrel bent steel. Since mine is a CAI, longer tubing and smaller diameter = higher air velocity. For short ram air setups, you're supposed to use shorter length pipe, but wider in diameter.
Umm...wow...you read my mind. If you use a 2.3L crank (prelude) and bore, you can get 2.5L. I'll have to see if I can get that article where the guy did a 2.5L from an H22A.
it wil still be closer to 2.37 ltrs but will have a better torque curve (sooner in the rpm band). Just to get 2.44 ltrs (my displacement) with that 89mm bore you will need a crank that is stroked to 98mm.
[Modified by 2point6, 11:55 PM 10/16/2002]
some of them are interchangable.. I'm attempting to shove lude H22A pistons on my F.
dont have excel @ home to look at my own spreadsheet!! someone else will be able to help you with the specs.
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 2:03 AM 10/17/2002]
dont have excel @ home to look at my own spreadsheet!! someone else will be able to help you with the specs.
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 2:03 AM 10/17/2002]
h23a1 has the same stroke...
H22a stroke is 90.7mm
Bore for the f22 is 85mm
bore for the H23 and h22 is 87mm
[Modified by 2point6, 6:04 PM 10/17/2002]
I would like to boost but it seems the engine i'm getting has had some extensive motor work, NA was the goal. . I should get full details of everything monday.
All I know so far is..the plugs surprised me those were very expensive..I figure compression ratio is high and not good for turbo
JE Pistons
Jun Cam
Port n Polished/Head Milled
JDM NGK Plats
Magncore Wires
All I know so far is..the plugs surprised me those were very expensive..I figure compression ratio is high and not good for turbo
JE Pistons
Jun Cam
Port n Polished/Head Milled
JDM NGK Plats
Magncore Wires
whos making valves for this?? more specifically whos making valves for A1-4-6 and B2 heads?
anyone making stainless oversizes?
anyone making stainless oversizes?
Vince over at Golden Eagle gave me Ferrea valves as an option when building the head on my F. He got the info from his 'head guy', whoever that may be.
curious...
how much boost are you running daily?
did you build up any internal part?
how long do you think it will last?
what kit did you put on or custom setup?
how is your mpg?
did you upgrade axles/brakes?
I'm going to be looking at a 11:1 compression ratio, whats yours at?
sorry for all the questions but need 2 know
how much boost are you running daily?
did you build up any internal part?
how long do you think it will last?
what kit did you put on or custom setup?
how is your mpg?
did you upgrade axles/brakes?
I'm going to be looking at a 11:1 compression ratio, whats yours at?
sorry for all the questions but need 2 know
I'm hoping to get 200hp anything higher would be a plus also this will be on automatic. I know there is a greater hp loss than a manual, though i'll eventuall convert later, first off engine with fuel upgrades.
How much would a 3" prelude throttle body run
How much would a 3" prelude throttle body run
Vince over at Golden Eagle gave me Ferrea valves as an option when building the head on my F. He got the info from his 'head guy', whoever that may be.
'head guy' haha.. people need to be less vague. this is one of the reason i hate honda performance.
I would like to boost but it seems the engine i'm getting has had some extensive motor work, NA was the goal. . I should get full details of everything monday.
All I know so far is..the plugs surprised me those were very expensive..I figure compression ratio is high and not good for turbo
JE Pistons
Jun Cam
Port n Polished/Head Milled
JDM NGK Plats
Magncore Wires
All I know so far is..the plugs surprised me those were very expensive..I figure compression ratio is high and not good for turbo
JE Pistons
Jun Cam
Port n Polished/Head Milled
JDM NGK Plats
Magncore Wires
thats what i heard from a friend, ill find out full specs on monday/tuesday.as i asked for a list with all the info on the engine. It does need a fpr though, my guess estimate of hp is 150hp.
150?? The F20A made that stock in japan.
lalala ... haha a Jun cam that would be a big waste of money and time. Who buys platinum plugs anyway and lists them as a mod besides stunnaz?
lalala ... haha a Jun cam that would be a big waste of money and time. Who buys platinum plugs anyway and lists them as a mod besides stunnaz?
2 things u should know
1-that estimated 150hp is real hp as if on a dyno not paper spec 150 where there is no drivetrain loss added into the equation.
2-its a automatic accord
1-that estimated 150hp is real hp as if on a dyno not paper spec 150 where there is no drivetrain loss added into the equation.
2-its a automatic accord


