I'm thinking about building a time attack car and have a lot of options interms of a roller. What's your guys thoughts? Best aero, all around? We know parts wise there's tons for these chassis. I'm looking to start with more time attack and go from there. Opinions would be awesome, thanks guys.

 

a coupe, better aero less drag

 

A highly subjective question. You will find strengths and fans Of each. This is like asking Moms "who's kid is the cutest"?

So I will represent the EG (my kid)

2 reasons I sought out the EG:

1: weight, I love light cars for so many reasons
2. Shares goodies with the DC chasis, so availability/cost of parts.

 

I would say starting with the most rigid platform possible is always best when starting from scratch, a roll cage adds rigidity sure but suspension mounting points and substructure make a huge difference. I had this discussion with a guy who ran honda challenge, he just switched from a CRX to EK and said the difference was huge just in the chassis swap. Not to mention the front control arm setup is much more desireable.

I do agree a coupe makes more sense for road course duty, so I guess a later generation coupe would be my recommendation!

Zack

 

I never got why people seem to think the eg is so much lighter than the dc and ek? Sure it's lightest if you keep the 1.5 and the 13" steelies.

Really depends on what you want out of the car. The coupe and dc will have less drag on the back end will be a bit more stable at higher speeds.

In the end what car DO you want?

 

It can also come down to way you can find cheap, since sooner or later the car will be hit or end up in the wall.

 

im sure some people will agree with EG, EK, DC, pick ur favorite from these 3 cars.. u should just gut it out.. im sure there is one chassis u like best but dont want due to it being a bit heavier
worse comes to worse, ditch the body and relace it with that plastic looking shell..(keep forgettig the name of it)

 

eg coupe or hatch is my opinion (i track a 96 cx).

i would choose this because they are cheap and readily available. parts are a dime a dozen as well if you get in fender bender with the tire wall.

 

I believe it's 160 lbs. nothing to sneeze at. Like 8% I dont know if you have thrown a passenger in your car and gone back out into a session but i sure feel a difference

And wheels and motor pointless assuming you do same mods. Agree on "get what you want". Half my motivation on the hatch was that I pack the thing with tools and stuff and drive it there. Now that's about to change.

 

Since you're doing Time Attack, the chance of wadding up the car is far less than road racing or doing something like rally racing. But I built my rally car out of an EK because that's what was available. I was looking for a hatch, simply because rally hatches look rad and you can throw spare tires and such in the trunk for moving stuff around easy. Didn't matter about EG/EK, just whatever I could find that was cheap and rust free.

Now, fast forward to when I crashed into a tree at Rally Tennessee. I was on the search for rust free donor shells to cut out my damaged area from since the cage was 100% fine. Turns out, people want an arm and a leg for clean EG/EK shells, especially in the Midwest rust belt.

Long story short... When I write off this chassis and need to start over, I'm definitly going with a 4 door sedan. No "street pimper" kids really want a 4 door over coupe/hatch so you can get rust free and perfectly good running cars for under $2000 in my area.

 

I was thinking of going coupe, because of wheel base as well. You guys think that plays a role at all?

 

yes, for high speed stability.

 

Depends on what tracks, some you would want a shorter wheel base.

 

You missed the point just like most. Example 92 cx with a D series motor/trans/cooling package that weighs far less than the B series in a dc2. So you put a B/K series motor/trans/cooling in the car and all of the sudden you just added most of the weight into the car that was saving weight over the dc2.

Next on the cx you go from 14x5.5"steelies with 185/60all season to a 15x8 225/45 r888 vs a dc2 with a 15x6.5 with a 195/55 all season to a same race wheel/tire which car has more the weight difference from old to new? The cx

Next we go to the interior cx is bare bones vs the dc2 with is sun roof and electric locks and windows also don't forget the plush leather. But who races with even half that crap?

The only thing a cx will be able to beat a dc in weight is sun roof and abs if they are prepped the same. Which honestly is easily removed so where is the 160 pounds? Apples vs oranges comparisons don't do anyone any good and the 160ish difference in weight between a stock cx and a stock dc2 would be no comparison as the dc2 would demolish the cx but are we racing stock cars with nothing to be touched? Nope. Have you weighed you eg with a k swap yet? What's it prepped like? What's it weight?

 

Maybe I did miss your point. I think you missed mine.

EG (hatch) vs. Ej2 (sedan). There's your 160 lbs

Don't know my weight yet, will corner balance when cage is done. If you are discussing a swapped civic to a dc2 I think the k20a2 is 30-50 lbs lighter than the b18.

 

Are there really any weight limits in any class? What do you guys think of buying someone's roller or starting from scratch?

 

Miamirice I missed no point your missing it still but it's all good

Scratch ussaully will always cost more money to build than snagging someone's old race car even though it seems more costly at first. All those small things add up fast.

 

don't mean to thread jack but I have a DC2 I'm thinking of converting to a double duty street/track vehicle (HPDE events) nothing super crazy. What motor and suspension setup do you guys rec. for a person just jumping into road racing? Current setup is a full gsr motor rod/piston combo, 430whp on 19psi blah blah. Wanna convert to all motor.

 

true!

 

oh the anger, if we could can it and use it for something good...

 

ek coupe and ek hatch I think the sedan too have the same wheel base. 103.2 in (2,621 mm)

 

I think the Crx has a better front control arm with the radius rod. Easier to adjust caster. What is so great about EK front arm?

 

And so does the hatch. Where is this "they are longer" wheelbase **** coming from? The only difference is the rear bumper length which is 9-10".

Now if we are talking DC the hatch is like 2" shorter wheelbase than the sedan. And if we are talking EG the hatch is also like 2" shorter than a coupe or sedan.

 

eg hatch hands down

 

Ive dragged, auto x, and time attacked my crx and it has performed well in all areas. Chose something you like and modify it where it lacks. Isnt that what we all do anyways?