Hello everyone,

I have a 1990 Honda Civic Lx
the orginal engine should be (D15b2 non-vtec,)

Currenlty:
D16a6 block, pm-3 cyclinder head, TD-01u distributor, and PM5-L0 ecu.

Looks like some tried a swap before me. I think

Problem:
I took car to a shop for engine rebuilt. Shop left car with knocking noise. Shop rebuilt engine 2nd time. Knocking noise still there.

1. Car turns on normally.
2. after warming a min or two, rpms rev up (sometimes 2500 rpm) too high.
3. exhuast drips excessive after 2 mins warm up and smells (worse than average old car warming up).
4. distributor turned all the way to the left. (forced engine, rev-up car).
5. When taking off in 1st gear car boggs at 3000rpms, but can shift. same on 2nd and 3rd gear.
6. Also doesn't want to go on 1st gear but eventually acts normal.
7. the other day thermostat housing started to leak. (no over heat). came out of little pin hole thing on hose that you control when you fill up radiator when turned on.
8. engine doesn't want to turn on after short trip. turns and turns but won't start.
it will if I chill a few minutes and than go home. (whichs means its cools and than it turns on). I don't think it due to the selonoid. I believe ecu should be a pm6, but I heard that the d16a6 is an "si civic" engine and those are v-tec. so the pm6 ecu won't work?

I say this becuse I believe the mixture of combustion don't operate well,becasue too much oil enter throttle from oil release pressure that hooks up to the cyclinder head.

9. I also think the distributor should be a TD-02U?
10. different shop diagnose found these errors:
knocking noise from lower engine, distributor wire were rewired and left cut/open, leak at thermo housing, timing belt was not replaced and timing is off, possible bad grounding , reason why car won't turn on when warm.

I've seen a few swaps on youtube and have come to a conclusion that these seem to sound louder, as to the original engine size for the car? My engine does sound like a knocking noise and I do have a diagnosis from a shop, but my engine sounds like a diseal engine from an 18 wheeler. compared too youtube videos , mine is as reved up as those on youtube, they just don't have the knocking noise?

I know this is long but, I hope someone can help me out. I need lots of advice.
I would like to fix it to where it won't cost a lot. the pm-3 head is new (forced by shop) and dizz is new (forced by shop)(***-ho**s left dizz turned far left - forced engine I think).

I'm not hear often, so please bare with me on a reply.

 

Got a picture of the motor?
Sounds like somebody put an A6 motor in there, but with the DPFI intake manifold and ECU.
(The A6 motor is for the Si, however it is non-vtec.)
PM6 ECU would work, but you would need to do a conversion from the DPFI to MPFI intake manifold.
PM6 controls 4 injectors while your PM5 can only control 2.
PM6 would also need the TD-02U to support the 4 injectors.


Betting that your check engine light is on.
Can you retrieve the ecu trouble codes?

 

Yes, that is one conclusion, I believe you are right on the DPFI intake and ecu. check engine does not stay on.
tried the clip thing to look up codes, but no success on blinking lights. ecu does turn on and I do here clicks when first inserting key.

Is this wrong?

what should I do first?

 

Pop the hood.
If you see this then you for sure have the DPFI

 

Retrieve the trouble codes!

Also, try loosening up the distributor bolts and rotate the distributor to about middle.
Will the engine start/run like that?

 

ur correct.

does a D16a6 not work with DPFI?

should I find a pm6 ecu?

should I buy a TD-02U dizz?

 

I tried the dizz rotation at middle and gets worse on 1st, 2nd and 3rd. acts more retarded.

 

Should I just find a D15B2? Does the DPFI go together with the PM-3 cyclinder head, therefore I just need a D15b2 block only? or what is best to do at this point?

 

The dual port will work on any motor, it only depends on the intake and electronics. If your running the dual port pick up a used a6 intake and ecu. Wire up multi port, also need a resistor box if I'm not mistaken. That alone well even give more power. I swapped a d15b2 (dual port) motor into a 93 civic, just swap intakes. And set timing. I don't trust shops with my motor..

Pm3 is the same code for pretty much all non vtec 16valve motors. That motor with a mpfi swap pulls like a si

Is it still 1.5? Or was the whole block swapped? Probably run lean as help if its a 1.6

 

I seem to have sort of the same issue no low end power boggs out in first but then picks up, its a 1.5 with the duel point but it looks like they swapped the dash for an SI dash with the tack and put a different distributor in, did any 1.5 have tach outputs ? is it possible they put in a distributor for a 1.6 ? Timing is bang on so Im lost here! HELP