ls vtec fully built motor/overheating/BB turbo water line routing?
got my car running...idle fine but car is overheating while it sits and warming up..i bleed my coolent..ect all aready but sill overheats..my question is i think i got my water line from my turbo going the wrong way?? that might be what making my motor overheat...
here how i route my water line..i got one water line going at the bottom of my rad..and the other water line going to my water hole that going into my head by the intake manifold..
here how i route my water line..i got one water line going at the bottom of my rad..and the other water line going to my water hole that going into my head by the intake manifold..
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that wouldnt cause your car to overheat... the chra puts very little heat back into the cooling system vs. the motor.
most people run a line off of the front cooling jacket plug (they make a fitting with an -an fitting machined into it) then IIRC they run it to the radiator
most people run a line off of the front cooling jacket plug (they make a fitting with an -an fitting machined into it) then IIRC they run it to the radiator
that wouldnt cause your car to overheat... the chra puts very little heat back into the cooling system vs. the motor.
most people run a line off of the front cooling jacket plug (they make a fitting with an -an fitting machined into it) then IIRC they run it to the radiator
most people run a line off of the front cooling jacket plug (they make a fitting with an -an fitting machined into it) then IIRC they run it to the radiator
plus that basemap i got was for my set up just so i can run the car b4 i go get it dyno and tune!! S300
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/what-you-guys-think-bout-set-up-lsv-sleeved-84mm-2-0l-3028711/
now im running ID1000cc injector
now im running ID1000cc injector
plus it wont let me go pass 3k rpm but only idle fine when car sits...and car will die if i hit the full thorttle.... BUT ONLY CODE POP UP IS CODE11 and that from car overheating...
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start the motor, take the radiator cap off... wait for the car to get up to temp and see if water moves...if it doesnt you could have a stuck thermostat or a bad thermostat... or a **** water pump.
Oh yea plus when it over heat and when I turn off the car I can see my rad.. Boiling!!! Too could that be my water pump or thermostat???
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when your car overheats... the coolant boils...
what are you running for coolant?
also, another way to see if the thermostat is open is to let the car warm up then rev it up while holding the lower radiator hose... if its really stiff and feels pressurized the thermostat is stuck and you need a new one
what are you running for coolant?
also, another way to see if the thermostat is open is to let the car warm up then rev it up while holding the lower radiator hose... if its really stiff and feels pressurized the thermostat is stuck and you need a new one
when your car overheats... the coolant boils...
what are you running for coolant?
also, another way to see if the thermostat is open is to let the car warm up then rev it up while holding the lower radiator hose... if its really stiff and feels pressurized the thermostat is stuck and you need a new one
what are you running for coolant?
also, another way to see if the thermostat is open is to let the car warm up then rev it up while holding the lower radiator hose... if its really stiff and feels pressurized the thermostat is stuck and you need a new one
when your car overheats... the coolant boils...
what are you running for coolant?
also, another way to see if the thermostat is open is to let the car warm up then rev it up while holding the lower radiator hose... if its really stiff and feels pressurized the thermostat is stuck and you need a new one
what are you running for coolant?
also, another way to see if the thermostat is open is to let the car warm up then rev it up while holding the lower radiator hose... if its really stiff and feels pressurized the thermostat is stuck and you need a new one
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
what kind of coolant are you running? ratio? did you use hose water or distilled water or a 50/50 premix?
if the top hose is hot and bottom is cold then the thermostat is stuck closed. either i has failed or there is air in the system
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what are you going to take off? theres nothing to remove to do what we are telling you to do
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you cant look at it and tell that... they dont open until they reach opening temperature...
you can pull it out, put it in a pot of water over the stove with a thermometer in the water and heat the water up and see if the thermostat opens... if the water reaches boiling point and it hasnt opened you need a new one...
but the far easier way is to do what me and dpetro said... with the car running and at operating temperature check both radiator hoses
you can pull it out, put it in a pot of water over the stove with a thermometer in the water and heat the water up and see if the thermostat opens... if the water reaches boiling point and it hasnt opened you need a new one...
but the far easier way is to do what me and dpetro said... with the car running and at operating temperature check both radiator hoses
OP, unless you stick the t-stat in a 200F water bath and watch for it to open, the hot/cold lower rad hose "test" is much more effective.


