Having problems with my 95 civic coupe
Hi I've been look every where trying to fine out what's wrong with my civic. This is what I got I have a D16y8 it's all obd2 and the harness is obd1 I got the car with the swap in it. It looks like they cut the harness to wire up the dizzy I looked at all the wires and it seems to look right. Well anyways this is what going on when I drive my car from 1 to 3 hours the car would just turn off and I'll get It towed home then it starts right up it happen three time already if you guys have any Idea let me know thanx!
Have you checked to see what is missing, [spark/fuel] when it stalls, "just turn off"?
There are a number of things that could be wrong, no fuel could be caused by a bad fuel pump or PGM-FI Main Relay or even a defective fuse.
No spark can be caused by a bad coil, ICM, fuse or in both cases just a poor connection.
Either problem can be caused by a bad ign. switch.
All the above are **** to heat failure, will work fine when cold but fail after heating up for 1-3 hours. 94
There are a number of things that could be wrong, no fuel could be caused by a bad fuel pump or PGM-FI Main Relay or even a defective fuse.
No spark can be caused by a bad coil, ICM, fuse or in both cases just a poor connection.
Either problem can be caused by a bad ign. switch.
All the above are **** to heat failure, will work fine when cold but fail after heating up for 1-3 hours. 94
Thanks for the reply! When it shut off on Me I checked the fuel and fuel pump and it was good then I checked for spark and there was no spark. I was thinking the distributor was bad but not sure is there any way the test it?
And another thing is the ign switch I have one I can put in I'll start with that. What fuses do you think I should change?
And another thing is the ign switch I have one I can put in I'll start with that. What fuses do you think I should change?
If you have no spark, check for power on the black/yellow led going to the distributor assembly, [when engine stalls].
If you have power on the black/yellow, I would check the coil and/or the ICM, both are susceptible to heat failure, more so the coil then the ICM, the ICM normally just quits working and does not work again, but I have seen them quit and then work once cooled off, where the coil almost always quits working and then works again once cooled off, it hardly ever just quits working. 94
One more thing you may want to check is the connections to the coil and ICM, especially the "quick disconnects" to the ICM, make sure they are tight, you may have to unplug them and "crimp' them a little with a pair of pliers to tighten them.
If you have power on the black/yellow, I would check the coil and/or the ICM, both are susceptible to heat failure, more so the coil then the ICM, the ICM normally just quits working and does not work again, but I have seen them quit and then work once cooled off, where the coil almost always quits working and then works again once cooled off, it hardly ever just quits working. 94
One more thing you may want to check is the connections to the coil and ICM, especially the "quick disconnects" to the ICM, make sure they are tight, you may have to unplug them and "crimp' them a little with a pair of pliers to tighten them.
Last edited by fcm; Jul 18, 2012 at 10:51 AM. Reason: afterthought
Ok thanks I'll give that a shot the only thing is I'll never know when the car would shut off lol! Do you think if I just get a new distributor the problem will go away?
Unfortunately it hardly ever works out that the problem is with the first part
you toss at it, it is however always the last part, the trick is to make the last part the first part.

I bet you could find better things to spend any money saved if all you need is a coil or ICM, instead of spending it on a compete distributor assembly.
With that said, it sure can't hurt your 16 year old car to have a brand new distributor assembly, even if it is not the problem.
Here is a trick we use all the time with intermittent problems, wire up a "telltale", run a lead from the black/yellow at the distributor into the car, connect a small 12V light bulb to it and ground the bulb if the light goes out when the car stalls, you will know it is not a distributor problem and eliminate it along with coil/ECM as the problem and know the problem is power related, conversely if the light does not go out you will know it is not a power problem and you will have to look at the distributor/coil/ICM or possibly, as I mentioned, connections to the coil and/or ICM. 94
Hey thanks fcm for all the help! I just wanna give a update. I went ahead and got a use distributor from a buddy and it solved the problem my car has not shut off on me so far. Ive been drive it for four day now and its been running good. Thanks for all the tips
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