cevax

I really cant figure out what I am doing wrong

I have a 93 delsol S, and a few days ago there was no spark at the distributer, changed ecu, changed distributer, checked all fuses and nothing, there just is no spark. Took a dash harness from a 95 si civic and swapped it over thinking that maybe the problem since it was botched anyway, it cause everything but the engine to stop working but the car turned on.

Well today I pulled off to do a highway run to seat the rings, it started, I go to first, second, and shift to third, I was going to slow for third and the car wanted to die. I couldn't push the clutch in fast enough and it died and it never started again.. No spark to the distributer again. I swapped ECU's check every fuse, swapped master relays, checked fuel pump. Checked all my relays and it just has no spark or power to the distributer.

I don't know what else to do

Former User

Does the fuel pump prime? If so, the Blk/Yel wire running between the ignition switch and distributor may be bad. Test its end-to-end resistance.

95EG2

turn the key to the on position(do not start) do u hear fuel pump prime???

cevax

the fuel pump does prime, I have a fuel pressure gauge and its working properly

cevax

I was driving up this little hill and right where the video stopped is where the car shut off

Heavy D508

we gotta crash it, all fuses are fine, black and yellow with the blue wire on the dizzy is getting 12-14 volts, the 8 pin connector is not getting any power

cevax

Damn I am not sure either, but its doing the same thing before the harness swap, no power to the dizzy .

cevax

the stupid thing is that there is a fuse that controls that plug, can you tell me the color code on the plug that is not getting power, I am going to try and figure something out

Heavy D508

i forgot where but the center plug is where the dizzy gives out power, which is called the B plug

Heavy D508

ok found it

These are the pin designations for the OBD1 ECU as well as their wire color and voltage. I always have a hard time finding this information when I need it as I'm sure others do, so here it is

KEY:
(voltage values measured in DC Volts unless otherwise specified)
V = Volts
Wht = White
Blk = Black
Grn = Green
Yel = Yellow
Brn = Brown
Blu = Blue
Org = Orange

KOEO = Key On Engine Off
KOER = Key On Engine Running

A, B, D= Slot. Numbers are read up and down from left to right, not straight across (see diagram at end).

A1-INJ1 INJECTOR#1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJECTOR#4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJECTOR#2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, n/a
A5-INJ3 INJECTOR#3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor heating element Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11-EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has it) Red, n/a
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, n/a
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, n/a
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, n/a
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, n/a
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, n/a
A18-Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), n/a
A19-White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, n/a
A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22-Igniter, same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V

B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V
B3-Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B4-Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, a/c input, ~5V with KOEO & A/C off; <1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7-Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), <1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a

D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, n/a
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, ~5V (M/T); ~11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, n/a
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, n/a
D11-TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12-Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, ~1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor input Yel/Blu, ~5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor signal Red/Yel, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF (no info)
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, ~3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18-Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), n/a
D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D21-Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
D22-Green/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V

cevax

Bump! somebody shine a light please

Ok we aren't getting any power to the yellow/green wire, We also tried to test continuity between all the wires on the 7pin plug on the distributor.

solid orange, orange/blue, yellow/green, blue/green and solid white all don't have continuity. The yellow/green is the igniter wire and there is nothing on that wire. Unplugged the engine harness and every wire shows continuity so its not the engine harness.

On top of that, fuse number 18 on the fusebox is getting now power, If I pull the fuse, it reads 6.5 volts, if the fuse is put back on, it reads nothing. If that plug on the ecu is jumped to check codes, it just shows a constant cel light. So there is either no power going to something on the ecu,

I am stumped

Former User

If when the service connector is NOT jumped, the CEL light turns off 2 seconds after turning the key to ON(II), then no codes are thrown.

The problem with this voltage test and the continuity tests you mention below is that we have no idea how you conducted them. Without knowing what you did, it's impossible to evaluate your information. For example, did you test for voltage at the distributor connector with it unplugged? Was the key in ON(II)? What did you use as ground in the voltage test? Your information lacks necessary details.

If no codes are thrown, ALL of your tests should for now focus only on the Blk/Yel wire, Yel/Grn wire, and Wht/Blu wire inside the distributor. How are you doing the continuity tests?

What wires? How are you doing the continuity tests?

Click the Test Fuses link in my signature. Disconnect the starter solenoid wire to prevent the starter from cranking the engine. With the key held in ON(III) and the clutch pedal depressed, you should measure battery voltage at both top test tabs of fuse 18.

sowellman88011

might wanna borrow and check the electrical switch on the back of the ignition cylinder. i work at an acura dealer and we sell them somewhat often. if its going or gone bad and the key isnt in the exact perfect spot it wont run. might be worth a try

cevax

@Ronj@HT

When the service connector is not jumped, the checked engine light goes off in 2 seconds. If the sevice connector is jumped, the checked engine light stays on, no blinks etc

I did a voltage test on fuse 18 and got 6.5 volts with the 7.5amp fuse pulled. If I put the fuse back I get no voltage reading, This is with igntion on. I also checked the fuse, the fuse is not blown. Let me try and explain better, On ignition on, If I touch the service port on top of the fuse it read 0volts (fuse18) on both sides of the fuse. If I pull the fuse off and touch the contacts of where the fuse will seat, I get 6.5 volts.

I did the continuity test on the distributer plug with the distributer unpluged. I checked the wires from the plugs for the distributer to the b blug on the ecu. I did this by putting one end of the multimeter on the plug for the distributer in the eginebay, and the other end on the B plug of the ecu plug. solid orange, orange/blue, yellow/green, blue/green and solid white all don't have continuity

Sowellman88011, I tried that and no go, I checked continuity on that aswell from each one of the key positions and everything worked.

I havent checked the black/yellow wire, is that wire a constant voltage wire?

Heavy D508

Ronj@ht are you talking about the black/yellow with blue wire on the dizzy? if so then yea that has 12-14 volts

cevax

Hey heavy can you check what ron posted above for me?

With the key held in ON(III) and the clutch pedal depressed, you should measure battery voltage at both top test tabs of fuse 18.

Former User

This means no CEL codes are being thrown.

^These results don't make sense. Installed 7.5A fuse 18 (each top test tabs) or one terminal in the socket should ONLY have voltage TO BODY GROUND when the key is in ON(III) (START). The voltage reading should be the same as that measured across the two battery posts.

If none of those wires had continuity, at least 4 CEL codes would be thrown. I recommend that you redo those tests and verify that your are correctly matching each distributor connector terminal with each ECU connector B terminal.






The Blk/Yel wire connected to the coil and igniter unit should have battery voltage with the key in ON(II) or ON(III).

Former User

Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Then, with the key in ON(II) or ON(III), check for battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and igniter unit.

Not sure what the part about "with blue wire" means.

cevax

Ok I will try those cables again, and check for the voltages as you said.

Also if I unplug the distributer, plug in the ecu and go on ignition 2. Should there be a check engine light? Currently there is no CEL if the distributer is unpluged, not sure if that is normal.

Thanks a bunch for your help

Former User

You may need to unplug the distributor and crank the engine for 20-30 seconds to set a distributor code.

cevax

I think that dash harness is screwed heavy. That distrubter is from my nephews running d16z6. Heavyd checked it, the icm was checked at the autoparts store. The coil checks out as bad, resistance readings are too low 9ohms i think. I dont remember what you sent me heavy.

Anyway even with that, with all the history this car has had with no spark I dont think its that. I think something is being burnt out, I am going to go to the junkyard next tuesday and take both fuseboxes, dash harness and the dizzy from a civic and try again.

cevax

Thanks ron for the help, me and heavy changed out the coil in the distributer and the engine turned on. Guess the replacement of the replacement that was replaced distributer turned out to be bad. THanks

c_buz

I am having a similar problem with my d15b (JDM) in my 95 civic. I am using P08 ECU. I get CEL 20 and 17 (TPS sensor). I replaced TPS sensor and calibrated it. I replaced the ICM and Coil and the car fired up. After about a ten minute drive it died. Had no spark, ICM d=had fried. Replaced it and it fried it again. What is causing my ICM to fail and the CEL 17 to keep poping up? I also have a humming noise from the IACV which goes away when I unplug it. Any help?

cevax

It doesnt take much to blow the ICM. You need to check to see if you have a bad spark park plug cables, bad spark plug. Or pull off your distributor, take off the ICM and see if there is anything on the contacts where the ICM goes. Could also be that the distributor is broken.

If you have a humming noise on the IACV, you might have a leak or it is dirty. Take it off and clean it.