The $$$ was a joke but seriously im running rich. Ive been searching around the forum and there is obviously no one answer just like any car problem. So what i want to know is what does it mean when your car runs richer as it warms up? After my car has warmed up The smell of gas becomes very prominent and sometimes ill get a little puff of jet black smoke. In one of the posts i read someone started to talk about this symptom and then turned away from it. I have a 94 accord with a h22 and a AEM dual chamber intake. those are my only mods. Plugs, wires, tps, ect were changed, replaced, or checked (tps) upon dropping the engine in. Thanks for the help!

 

While its warming up? This is right in between o2 or ECT. There are a lot more advanced ways to pinpoint this exactly like the dynamic running comp test.

Can it be a leaking injector maybe but I say take the easier way and run some tests on the the sensors reading this issue. If you don't have a scan tool read up below

ECT can misread and while it is warming up will change your fuel trim and add more fuel, same as goes for the o2. If you're ready to get it going get a volt reading on upstream and downstream o2's. Reading should be above 450millivolts if what your saying is accurate.

If thats fine come back with what happened and then we can run a test on the ECT.

 

Ill run the test and let you know but my o2 was changed not even a month ago.

 

Alright when your done that lets back probe that ECT. Should be a two wire sensor located near the coolant housing to the block. If not there get a component locator.

Now when you find it unplug the the connector which has the power and ground and if your able to get the the resistance of it that would make this easier. If you cant oh we'll I'll apply what we have and figure out if it's good. Now get yourself a pin again, we're gonna back probe this as well. Both wires usually have a tracer but one is usually black. Get the pin on the power wire not ground but accidentally doing will not damage it. Red lead to the pin and black lead to good ground ,bracketbolt\block bolt. First do it key on engine off and should be a around 3.5 to 4.5V . If not record it. Now turn your engine on and hold it there voltage will drop since most of these sensors are NTC's. Record your intervals and when your car seems to reach normal temp of when you would take off and drive record that reading.

If any questions ask.

 

The ECT sensor is the two wire sensor found directly under the distributor in the head. The sensors on the coolant housing is the coolant fan temp switch.

 

Thanks, fairly new with Hondas. Just here helping peeps.

 

You're welcome... Just figured I could help fill in the Honda specific blanks.

 

ok so im throwing code 6 and my ohms for resistance was at very low 200s. it was stuck between 206 and 207

 

Googled it can't post it tho comes up as asterisks. ECT / Water Temp Sensor code 6.

3.85 volts was the result out of the 200 ohms you have me, all this meaning that when you take off and drive your sensor is telling your PCM that it's running below 60 degrees F.

Heres a chart. http://0.tqn.com/d/autorepair/1/0/I/A/41928895.gif

 

So this reasures me in the fact that the ect isnt working properly. I live in vegas where it is clearly over 60. The ect is making the engine throw more fuel than needed, therefore burning rich


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Essentially sir, good luck on fixing your problem hope I was of assistance.

 

Assuming that is the reading you are getting when the car is warmed up, it actually sounds like it's in the correct area. It could be a wire issue where there's an open in the wire. You should check for continuity from the connector back to the ecu.

 

So when you take off an drive and the ECT thinks you car is running at 60 degrees that's fine? Negative temperature coefficient means voltage is to drop as car warms up . Hondas use a 5 volt reference as I subtracted that from the voltage drop out of the PCM of only 1.15 V. A normal working one reads in the area of 1.6V when you take off. Plus that code 6 just is another reassurance

 

still running rich... not really hung up on it anymore. However, if i get the Skunk2 T-body and intake mani without getting new injectors is it possible for the increase in air will balance out the richness? ive been pondering this. hmmmmmmmm