Just moved from ND to SoCal. I'm wondering what all parts will I need to install a/c on a 00 Civic with a GSR. I did browse thru the threads first but it seems everyone has something unique to their own setups. Didn't need a/c in upper Dakota, but it was 105 in SoCal yesterday!

 

From what I've heard a CR-V A/C bracket will mount the Civic compressor to the B series engine. Either that or the P30 Del Sol bracket, but those are hard as hell to find.

 

Ok, that's a step in the right direction, but what all do I need? I bought the car already swapped. I don't wanna get everything and then realize I'm missing a part to make the system work.

 

hi, first to know what you need, is to know what you have, you already said that have a gsr swap, but what comes with the swap?.

 

Get a del sol AC bracket and use any D series AC compressor. Grab the high and low pressure lines from a junk yard

 

As far as I can tell nothing came with the swap as far as a/c components. If that's what you are asking.

 

If you have nothing go for integra ac compressor and bracket. Much easier to come by

 

It wont fit I don't think.

 

yep integra lines wont fit civic chassis, i'm running a crv a/c bracket with all the other components being the original ones from my ej8 that i kept when i swapped in my b18c and the D series compressor bolts right up to the crv bracket wich is really all you need, try to figure out what your missing and hit up a junk yard (if you can get away from the city as far as possible and find a yard thats off the path a little you have better chance of findin a moore complete car)

 

Exactly what I did with my B16 swap. Went to the junkyard, pulled a D series compressor that matched my EX lines, bought a new dryer and expansion valve. Then pulled a vacuum on the system and charge her up!

As far as the compressor bracket goes, you can use any Del Sol VTEC bracket or I believe a 97 CRV also.

 

ok. thanks for all the help. this is my parts list so far:

CRV ( or del sol) a/c bracket
D-series compressor and lines (should the lines be from a 00 chasis or does that matter)
belt?
Drier
Expansion valve

the only thing still attached to the motor is the a/c bracket for the gsr. found a few parts on c*list but want to make sure the years are compatible. sorry for all the questions...

 

Just make sure your lines are from anything other than an SI. I noticed my lines on my EX and my buddys EM1 were different, hence the difference between the Sanden and Denso compressors. So AFAIK, you can use any lines from 96-00, non SI. You may even be able to use lines from an EG, just as long as theyre 134a.

 

what happens if you dont have the plug for the compressor? mines swapped and all the "extra" connectors have been hacked off.. anyone have the location of the plug and the color of the wires?

 

I think theres only one wire that connects with the compressor, its red. I believe its in the same harness that leads to the condenser fan coming from underneath the driver side headlight.

 

Don't just buy the CRV bracket (commonly called a P7J bracket) alone. You will also need the belt Tensioner that attaches to it. If you get the bracket without the tensioner, go grab any b-series tensioner out of the junk yard.

After that all you need is your AC system, with wire harness and AC button. Drain all the old oil out of each piece (especially the evaporator). Then get yourself the following:

- 120cc (4oz) of PAG-46 oil (buy preium "double-end-capped" PAG oil like SuperCool brand)
- New set of green HNBR o-rings ($10 from Autozone)
- A NEW receiver/drier ($15 for 4-seasons from Summit)
- 2 cans of R-134a
- 2 new valve cores for hi & low ports (4-seasons/Murray = $.50ea at O'ReillyAuto)

Tools you need:
- R134a gauge manifold ($44-55 at Harbor Freight
- Vacuum Pump ($105 - 150 at harbor Freight)
- Valve core tool ($2 for Green Slime brand at Autozone)

 

How do I attach pics? I need to know if I have all the lines. I could descibe them but that would just be word writing "a long squiggly aluminum wrapped in insulation" continously...

 

This is the AC system from a 00 EX. Make sure you have everything:

 

Touchè Sir! That pic will alleviate the need to ask how to install it as well. I love you guys...

 

 

Alright...so after a buying a "working" a/c system off C*list, replacing one of the drier lines that had been straightened out, two CR-V brackets (first one was JDM, got excited I found it so quick I didn't look that it was P3J) and spending all weekend bent over in the engine bay installing lines and everything, the darn thing didn't fire up. I have the service manual, which for the most part is straight forward for "A/C system does not come on (compressor and fan)" but still to know avail, I have nothing. I can jump start both of them by shorting together 1 & 2 in the under hood relays for both, so I know they work. I printed out the 99-00 schematics and cont. tested all the wires and even put checks next to each section (pain in the **** btw). So now I'm narrowed down to A/C Pressure Switch or A/C Thermostat (which nobody at AutoZone has ever heard of or seen). From some snooping around in the boards I have seen people short the connector on the A/C PS and get results and others say on the 00 model that doesn't tell you anything for the symptoms on my car. So that narrows it down to the A/C T'stat. Is there a test for that as well, and would that keep both from working? And, would an empty system (no freon yet) not run because of that. I didn't want to charge it and find out I have a leak or bad part and then have to discharge it. Freon ain't free...regardless of its name. So, somebody let me know something...please...I'm cooking down here SoCal. And thanks for reading my novel!

 

If you don't charge the system, the pressure switch won't let ANYTHING turn on. It's low pressure and high pressure protection. If there is no refrigerant, the compressor will burn up from running (low-side refrigerant cools the compressor). For starters you will have to hook up 1 can of 134a and let it fill with the engine switched off (through the high side). Only so much will go in, before the system pressure gets too high and the can-pressure will no longer fill. That should still be plenty to get the compressor to kick on. You want to leak test & vacuum the system before you do this though.

IMPORTANT: You need to VACUUM the system out before any real filling can begin. By putting the system under vacuum, you can check for leaks. According to the manual, if the system won't reach 27in/hg in 15 minutes, you most definitely have a leak. Then system has to be vacuumed for another 30 minutes to boil off & remove any moisture inside. This is one of the most important steps.

Also, have you installed a NEW receiver/drier? If not, get a new one and install it right before you do the system vacuuming. This is also super important as the descant inside is meant to trap any residual moisture left behind. The descant inside only works once. Once it's full of moisture, it cannot trap any more. This is why the drier must be replaced when the system is taken apart.

 

haha...wow, that's 4 hours of my life troubleshooting that I will never get back. That should be the first step in the service manual. By chance, the guy behind me in line at the parts store does A/C work and he corrected the counter guy on how to do the system. He was going to vacuum, boil, and charge the system yesterday but I told him I couldn't because I couldn't get the system to even turn on. UGH! Thanks again for the help. Btw, I did replace the drier (last) which is a PITA if you can't start the car to turn the wheel because there's no battery because the lines run behind it and if you have the power steering still in place. Just fyi...ten knuckles...no skin. Thanks again, for real!

 

Good luck. Let us know how it goes once you start the charging process.

On the EG the drier slides out from the top (with it's bracket still attached). All you gotta do is push the two hard lines out of the way after you disconnect them. I've not tried it on the EK though.

 

All freon'd up and blowing ice cold again. SoCal just might be tolerable now. If only someone could do something about the traffic now. Thanks for all the inputs and help.

 

^ this