my buddy has got a 96 accord lx..... it wont start . there was oil in all four cylinders, and the wires were soaked in oil. changed the valve cover gasket. changed the battery.... and tested out the starter and it was good.. going to use a dvom meter tommorow for electrical and see if there is a short to ground some where. but when i go try to start it ... it dosent even try to turn over. it just clicks ounce and thats it..... so i was wondering what you guys might think it is ? thanks

 

a battery can read 12 volts but how are the cranking amps? you need to do a Parasitic Draw Test http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0&feature=plcp

 

Did you change out the spark plug seals? When you took off the valve cover?

 

exactly. the pic doesn't show specifically where it goes, but it's under the valve cover, under the holes for the spark plugs. if you spark plug wires are soaked in oil, you're getting practically zero conductivity from the wire to the plug.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...DER+HEAD+COVER

 

the spark plug wires have nothing it do with it not wanting to crank. its no start/turn over condition. once again which has nothing to do with spark plug wires. the engine should still crank. he has a weak battery. bad grounds. or a draw from something taking to many amps

 

Good catch JDM, I didnt even read that, ADHD kicking in again But, yeah, make sure the battery connections are clean(Take the wires off, clean the battery terminals and the inside of the connectors) reattach, try to start. If no go, then try a jump. If no go, check for 12V at battery, if still no..well try that first.

 

ah my bust. i must have missed that part of his post bouncing back and forth between work and what not.

the 5th gen starter electrical systems are just garbage. i've had two 5th gens, and changed out 5 starters between them thinking they were the problem, even though they test fine at the store. i have found that if i bypass the factory wiring and just run power straight from the battery to the starter signal connection on the starter it self, it works everytime. This is the way my racecar is currently wired up. i have no idea how to actually fix the problem with the factory wiring.

 

ignition switch

 

that would make sense, considering the constant arcing on the contacts would cause pitting over a gazillion on/offs. however, even with the ignition switch bypassed it was still doing it using a push button. not until i went straight from the battery did it work every time. it doesn't matter any more however, because it's all my own wiring....