New to Auto X and HPDE! From drag to road racing.... with the wife lol!!
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Ok so as the title states me and the wife are going to try some auto x and road racing together. We plan on starting in auto x in August through (SCCA) and slowly as we progress start doing some HPDE with NASA. I currently already had a build going on that was originally intended on being a dd/drag car. But now as plans have changed so have the parts. Being that I was going for the dd/drag theme the motor setup was geared for monster hp and just going in a straight line. Of course now I'm going to have to detune the engine some and change up some things in the suspension dept.
Build thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/appearance-build-threads-122/srdftitans-97-ej8-turbo-build-thread-pics-vids-%2A%2Acustom-gauge-holder%2A%2A-3032646/
Paint thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-body-84/srdftitans-97-ej8-oh-god-i-decided-paint-my-own-car-3063876/
Here are our new Scott Racing & Development Factory Shirts that my wife just designed. I know a little overboard, but hell if I'm going to suck at something (racing), I'm going to look good doing it!! These shirts look awesome, as they should because she's a graphic designer lol!! As we move up in road racing she is going to design all of our pit crew shirts, race suits and even the design/graphics on the race car. She has some kind of 3D program where she is currently designing the graphics that are going to go on the side of the car!! When she's done with the 3D image I'll be able to view the car with the graphics on it from any angle!! I know, I know I'm lucky as hell!! Check em out and let me know what you think, she did two designs, one all black shirt with gold lettering and one black and gold shirt with gold lettering. I'm leaning towards the all black with gold lettering because there much cheaper. What you guys think?

Build thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/appearance-build-threads-122/srdftitans-97-ej8-turbo-build-thread-pics-vids-%2A%2Acustom-gauge-holder%2A%2A-3032646/
Paint thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-body-84/srdftitans-97-ej8-oh-god-i-decided-paint-my-own-car-3063876/
Here are our new Scott Racing & Development Factory Shirts that my wife just designed. I know a little overboard, but hell if I'm going to suck at something (racing), I'm going to look good doing it!! These shirts look awesome, as they should because she's a graphic designer lol!! As we move up in road racing she is going to design all of our pit crew shirts, race suits and even the design/graphics on the race car. She has some kind of 3D program where she is currently designing the graphics that are going to go on the side of the car!! When she's done with the 3D image I'll be able to view the car with the graphics on it from any angle!! I know, I know I'm lucky as hell!! Check em out and let me know what you think, she did two designs, one all black shirt with gold lettering and one black and gold shirt with gold lettering. I'm leaning towards the all black with gold lettering because there much cheaper. What you guys think?

Last edited by SRDFTITAN; Jun 30, 2012 at 01:19 PM.
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Just a little update:
Parts are starting to show up in the mail already. Need to get all the suspension stuff on tonight as I have an appointment at Honda tomorrow morning to get a 4 wheel alignment.





Stay tuned!!
Parts are starting to show up in the mail already. Need to get all the suspension stuff on tonight as I have an appointment at Honda tomorrow morning to get a 4 wheel alignment.





Stay tuned!!
Looks good.
Just make sure you read the CCR's over good before buying parts that might reclassify the car in the class you choose to run.
Also since you dont list your experience and I would assume your experience is low.
Hold off on buying "go fast" parts until you can drive the hell out a stock car.
Rethink the turbo for now.
The difference between drag and RR is night and day.
It is easier to learn to drive a lower HP car when you are begining.
Learning to RR in a boosted car will only promote bad habits, and believe me we can all attest that just because you have HP doesnt equate to being fast.
I have seen many a bone stock car eat a boosted car for lunch because the driver wasnt accomplised enough.
Pretty embarassing to have a 125hp EG hatch go past you and leave you in the dust.
Buy the shirts because looking good is important, and your wife did a GREAT job designing them
Keep us posted!
Just make sure you read the CCR's over good before buying parts that might reclassify the car in the class you choose to run.
Also since you dont list your experience and I would assume your experience is low.
Hold off on buying "go fast" parts until you can drive the hell out a stock car.
Rethink the turbo for now.
The difference between drag and RR is night and day.
It is easier to learn to drive a lower HP car when you are begining.
Learning to RR in a boosted car will only promote bad habits, and believe me we can all attest that just because you have HP doesnt equate to being fast.
I have seen many a bone stock car eat a boosted car for lunch because the driver wasnt accomplised enough.
Pretty embarassing to have a 125hp EG hatch go past you and leave you in the dust.
Buy the shirts because looking good is important, and your wife did a GREAT job designing them

Keep us posted!
Last edited by dirty19; Aug 3, 2012 at 04:39 PM.
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Looks good.
Just make sure you read the CCR's over good before buying parts that might reclassify the car in the class you choose to run.
Also since you dont list your experience and I would assume your experience is low.
Hold off on buying "go fast" parts until you can drive the hell out a stock car.
Rethink the turbo for now.
The difference between drag and RR is night and day.
It is easier to learn to drive a lower HP car when you are begining.
Learning to RR in a boosted car will only promote bad habits, and believe me we can all attest that just because you have HP doesnt equate to being fast.
I have seen many a bone stock car eat a boosted car for lunch because the driver wasnt accomplised enough.
Pretty embarassing to have a 125hp EG hatch go past you and leave you in the dust.
Buy the shirts because looking good is important, and your wife did a GREAT job designing them
Keep us posted!
Just make sure you read the CCR's over good before buying parts that might reclassify the car in the class you choose to run.
Also since you dont list your experience and I would assume your experience is low.
Hold off on buying "go fast" parts until you can drive the hell out a stock car.
Rethink the turbo for now.
The difference between drag and RR is night and day.
It is easier to learn to drive a lower HP car when you are begining.
Learning to RR in a boosted car will only promote bad habits, and believe me we can all attest that just because you have HP doesnt equate to being fast.
I have seen many a bone stock car eat a boosted car for lunch because the driver wasnt accomplised enough.
Pretty embarassing to have a 125hp EG hatch go past you and leave you in the dust.
Buy the shirts because looking good is important, and your wife did a GREAT job designing them

Keep us posted!
thanks,
SRDF
First, congrats on entering this world of road racing. And like everyone has said, don't spend your money on go-fast / magazine parts, spend it on track time. Also, when you get serious enough, don't let the car that you currently have drive the class that you run in. Go out to the races in local area and see what you would like to run, do your homework, make a plan and most importantly, have fun!
Awesome and welcome to the addiction!
You have a lot of great tracks in your state to do track days at like Roebling Road, and Road Atlanta.
Best of luck!
You have a lot of great tracks in your state to do track days at like Roebling Road, and Road Atlanta.
Best of luck!
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Thanks again guys for the comments, I will definately take all this into account. I got some of the stuff installed today but ran into a couple of hick ups, my down pipe ended up having a very large crack in it!! I'll post pics as soon as they are uploaded to photobucket.
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Ok today have a little update for everyone. Got the ASR sub frame brace, ASR sway bar and rear lower control arms in. Everything was running pretty smoothly until I crawled underneath the front of the car and discovered that my down pipe was cracked almost all the way around it. So the H brace, radiator, radiator fan, fan switch and alignment is going to have to wait until I can get the down pipe fixed. I was however able to get a lot of negative camber out of the back with my lower control arms and the good ole washer trick!! Anyway here is some pics, keep the comments coming.








The carnage!!!








The carnage!!!
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I will definately keep an eye on them. I started putting two and two together and I realized that the ebay lca's and the blox lca's are the exact same lca. I compared the ones that I have with a friend of mines. Just another little reason why I think blox and all the other companies that sell on ebay get their stuff from the same place overseas. The bushings in blox's lca's have the same problem.
i laff everytime i see someone working on their car with gloves on their hands and flippyfloppys on their feet!
welcome to the sport, im sure you'll enjoy it!
welcome to the sport, im sure you'll enjoy it!
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You know what I thought about the same thing, especially since I'm running 10:1 cr. I'm going to keep this in mind.
I will definately keep an eye on them. I started putting two and two together and I realized that the ebay lca's and the blox lca's are the exact same lca. I compared the ones that I have with a friend of mines. Just another little reason why I think blox and all the other companies that sell on ebay get their stuff from the same place overseas. The bushings in blox's lca's have the same problem.
I will definately keep an eye on them. I started putting two and two together and I realized that the ebay lca's and the blox lca's are the exact same lca. I compared the ones that I have with a friend of mines. Just another little reason why I think blox and all the other companies that sell on ebay get their stuff from the same place overseas. The bushings in blox's lca's have the same problem.
You can say that again.
I bought an EG last year for the street. It had the bl** LCA's and 4 of the 6 bushings were bad.
Pulled those things out and did up a set of PCI bushings with a set of stock LCA's
God I wish I could be there to watch your first HPDE. Watching drag racers trying to drive on a road course is hilarious!
But, once you overcome that first event and start getting the hang of it, it's a ton of fun! Good luck!
But, once you overcome that first event and start getting the hang of it, it's a ton of fun! Good luck!
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I was looking at the differences between the ebay ones and a lot of the others and I really couldn't see a whole lot of differences. After I received the lca I compared them with some of the popular brands like skunk2 and blox, there all the same. I'm just troubled about how much money blox and skunk2 charge for the same product that I paid $60.00 for, unbelievable!!
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My engine builder is a drag racer.
I feel he knows better how to build an engine for road race over anyone else I know.
So far he has been spot on, so hats of to the drag racing community and their mechanics mad skills and to you for giving it a go on a twisty.
I use the same ASR setup, very nice choice. Mine is/was set to full soft, ive made some minor adjustments but not far from full soft.
Let us know how your event goes! ACE buddy!
I feel he knows better how to build an engine for road race over anyone else I know.
So far he has been spot on, so hats of to the drag racing community and their mechanics mad skills and to you for giving it a go on a twisty.
I use the same ASR setup, very nice choice. Mine is/was set to full soft, ive made some minor adjustments but not far from full soft.

Let us know how your event goes! ACE buddy!
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My engine builder is a drag racer.
I feel he knows better how to build an engine for road race over anyone else I know.
So far he has been spot on, so hats of to the drag racing community and their mechanics mad skills and to you for giving it a go on a twisty.
I use the same ASR setup, very nice choice. Mine is/was set to full soft, ive made some minor adjustments but not far from full soft.
Let us know how your event goes! ACE buddy!
I feel he knows better how to build an engine for road race over anyone else I know.
So far he has been spot on, so hats of to the drag racing community and their mechanics mad skills and to you for giving it a go on a twisty.
I use the same ASR setup, very nice choice. Mine is/was set to full soft, ive made some minor adjustments but not far from full soft.

Let us know how your event goes! ACE buddy!
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/how-setup-asr-rear-swaybar-2687629/ If you have not found this yet...
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Just a quick little update:
Since my exhaust was broken I figured it was a good idea to address some other exhaust issues. My exhaust is already 3" that was fabricated and installed by Mainstream Performance, however the muffler that is on my car is a modified factory Honda muffler that I wanted to try out. This combination worked very well, as the exhaust note was extremely quiet and it flowed pretty good. However just to make sure the exhaust flows at its maximum I'm retaining the 3" exhaust but scrapping the modified muffler. In its place will be a 3" x 6" flex pipe (for the down pipe issue), 2 (two) Dynomax 24245 Race Bullet Resonators/mufflers with dimensions of: 3.5" inlet/outlet x 17.25" in length, and a N1 style muffler with silencer. Hopefully this combination will allow the engine to flow at it's absolute maximum and also stay on the quiet end. I do understand that it will not be super quiet like my modified Honda muffler, but it should be quieter than most (keeping fingers crossed) lol. I also was wanting to make sure that I maintained a straight through design throughout the entire exhaust this time around. Well thats it.
Since my exhaust was broken I figured it was a good idea to address some other exhaust issues. My exhaust is already 3" that was fabricated and installed by Mainstream Performance, however the muffler that is on my car is a modified factory Honda muffler that I wanted to try out. This combination worked very well, as the exhaust note was extremely quiet and it flowed pretty good. However just to make sure the exhaust flows at its maximum I'm retaining the 3" exhaust but scrapping the modified muffler. In its place will be a 3" x 6" flex pipe (for the down pipe issue), 2 (two) Dynomax 24245 Race Bullet Resonators/mufflers with dimensions of: 3.5" inlet/outlet x 17.25" in length, and a N1 style muffler with silencer. Hopefully this combination will allow the engine to flow at it's absolute maximum and also stay on the quiet end. I do understand that it will not be super quiet like my modified Honda muffler, but it should be quieter than most (keeping fingers crossed) lol. I also was wanting to make sure that I maintained a straight through design throughout the entire exhaust this time around. Well thats it.







