Rather put all my questions in this thread concerning PS & AC. Now I'm swapping in a B18C JDM GSR motor into my 99 Civic DX hatch which has both PS & AC. HMO quoted me +$150 to include the CRV AC bracket and SI PS bracket. I'm still not sure whether I should keep my AC & PS. I think I can managed without PS but still have a few concerns. I live in Michigan so I won't be needing my AC that much and I can just roll down my windows anyway but when it's really cold, I'd like to have my heater working. Now for the questions.

PS Questions:

1.My car came with PS so if I yank out the pump, lines, mounting bracket, pulley, belt and "loop" the lines on my power steering rack with a short line. Will I encounter any problems?

2.After removing the lines to the power steering rack and before looping it closed, should I turn the wheels to bleed out the remaining fluids in the rack?

AC Questions:

1. Are there any hazards to releasing the pressure from the AC lines or should I not touch them when removing the AC from the engine bay?

2. Since I live in a cold state, I would like my heater to function properly. If I remove my AC, will my heater still work?

3. After removing the AC from the engine bay, do I need to remove anything from inside the car?

4. Can I somehow still have airflow from outside enter my car without the AC?

Lastly, since there are two belts to power the PS and AC, there is one pulley I can't identify. Do I need to remove this pulley when removing the AC belt or can I just leave it there?

*NOT THE ENGINE I'M ORDERING. ONLY PICTURE I COULD FIND OF A B18C THAT HAD A GOOD VIEW OF THE BELTS I HAVE TO REMOVE.*



After removing the PS and AC belts, should I remove the pulleys at the crank that powered them or should I just leave them there like in the this picture. Also, since the crank is only powering one extra belt, in this case being the alternator. Do I gain any power since it has two less belts to move?



Sorry for the many questions, this is my first swap I'm doing.

 

Anyone?

 

Hhow are the heating and A/C systems even remotely connected?

And why wouldn't you be able to get air in the cabin from the outside? Have you never just run the fan without the A/C and the heat off?

Most of these questions have been asked and answered frequently and extensively in the past.

 

Power steering search results.
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...w=1744&bih=899
A/C removal results
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...w=1744&bih=899

 

If you have working A/C and it's under pressure you don't want to just pull the hoses, it's under a lot of pressure. You don't want to breath the freon or get it on your skin, or get it in your eyes. You should have a shop properly discharge the system. Although honestly if it works I'd just buy the CR-V A/C bracket (you should be able to find one cheap at a junkyard)

Just a heads up, The car wont defog and defrost as well without the A/C

Power steering: you want to some fluid left in the rack to lubricate it, loop the lines and put a breather in there. A manual rack will steer a lot nicer though (although it would cost less to just buy the bracket to just keep power steering)

 

You can remove the ac and ps if you want it, that questionable pulley is just part of the ac bracket, no you cannot remove the additional pulleys from the crank you need to replace it with a ctr crank that only has the alternator.

 

I want to keep my D-series PS pump. And I read some posts that with a B-series PS bracket. I HAVE to buy a B-series pump. True or False?

 

True. You need a '98 - '01 Integra pump or one from a '99 - '00 Civic Si. You don't need the pump when doing this swap on a '92 - '95 Civic though, they share the same pump as the '94 - '97 Integra. Ignore my earlier post about the bracket, I forgot this was a '96 - '00 Civic.

 

That's why I rather just yank it out and leave it stable as best possible. In this case, looping the line. Plus I hear people get a better feeling of the wheels/handling. Now with it needing a breathing reservoir or not. I've read somewhere that it's not a good idea because air can get in that way or w/e air in the rack will rise to the reservoir leaving nothing fluid in the rack which makes it even harder to turn. I'm confused, does a the breather actually help or harm the looping setup.

 

Looping helps. A depowered power rack still sucks compared to a real manual rack though.

Also, I'd just wait till your engine shows up and see what pump comes on it, you may get one that already has a '98 - '01 pump. (or find someone parting out an integra and but one used)

 

It's HMO. Called steve and they only have 94-97 B18c's. I'm going to try to get a 96-97 so I can keep my car OBD2. I already searched how to convert OBD2b to OBD2a.

So should I add the reservoir or be fine without it. It won't be left like that forever but want that setup to last at least a year at least. I'll decide whether I want to swap in a CX rack or find a B-series pump. Also is it just the pump or do I need lines as well?

AC questions. It seems dangerous to remove one that is working. I'm just wondering how all these kids do it in their backyard without the right tools and equipment to discharge it properly unless they had faulty A/C system to begin with.

So if I decide to keep my AC. All I would need is that delsol/CRV bracket, correct? Nothing more?? I'm assuming the belt will line up properly, etc? Also will the stock 99-00 AC belt be long enough for the b18c setup.

 

Depending on the crank, but since you have an integra motor just get the integra belt. I would test your old belt first and go from there. If hmo says it comes with pumps than I wouldn't worry anymore about re ps pump.

 

right on. I gotta remember to ask about that when ordering this month.

 

The engine has nothing to do with OBD2A/OBD2B (the only exception to this is OBD2B D16Y8s have air injection and some OBD2B engines use a small distributor plug, All OBD2 B-series engines except the OBD2B CR-Vs use the large plug though) keep an OBD2A ECU and you'll be fine.

If you're thinking about buying a pump I'd just leave the lines unhooked rather than cutting them, otherwise you're looking at more money later. All you need is the pump. You should be able to find one somewhere for under $50 make sure it comes from either a '98 - '01 Integra or '99 - '00 Civic, otherwise the lines wont fit.

All you need is the bracket with the idler pulley. '97 - '01 CR-V belt should work, not sure about the '99 - '00 Si belt.