Pm'ed someone and asked if I would be okay running honda fittings to the block and running a vented catch can that way, now I'm told I'm a fool and these fittings will starve your motor of oil. Will a lot of oil come from these block fittings? Will a drain back be needed?

I'm shooting for 300-350whp. I just bought two 12an barbed fittings for my valve cover, but I think they are way too big to weld on, I think they are too big for the stock baffle to stop oil from going into the lines, so I don't know whether I should not tap the valve cover at all, or install and weld small pieces of aluminum infront of the opening inside of the valve cover to prevent oil from shooting in. I also have one -10an fitting I could install on the valve cover and not use the other two fittings? But I want plenty of ventilation so I know I'm not building negative crank case pressure.

I ask so many questions, send lots of pm's, but the answers I receive are vauge, beating around the bush, or going totally against what I read 5 minutes prior!

I know there isnt one magic answer, other than "if you have SOME sort of ventilation, you will benefit from it"

I have a quart paint can I'm making the catch can from. I drilled holes for a couple lines so far, waiting to see what exactly I need before I start using the JB weld. Pretty much I dont want my engine to choke, and want it to breathe well under load, the car is usually always in boost when I drive it.

Thanks

 

the difference in the OEM block fittings and a -10 type is inner diameter.

The -10 is a larger diameter which will aid the vapors and not catch as much oil because theres alot less velocity pushing out thus the heavier oil wont get blown as much as the narrower OE fittings. Also, venting from the OE breather does help. I plan on boring mine out a little and using a larger barb to help out as well.

Make sense now?

 

No...

Also, a paint can?

 

I wasnt going to say anything about it...

 

Yes, a paint can. Its a brilliant idea, and it was only $2


OE breather, are you talking about the nipple on the valve cover?

Also, tapped lines running from the valve cover relieve some pressure from the crank case so I can feel better about my oem fittings?

 

You're better off leaving the stock PCV system instead of utilizing this MICKEY MOUSE idea of a painter's can.. c'mon. Have a little pride..

 

If you think using a paint can for a catch can is a "brilliant" idea, you are a lost cause.

Listen kid, as has been stated many times before:

- Back of the block vents 2x's as much as the valve cover.
- If you use the valve cover, depedning on your venting needs, 4 ports is desirable.
- If you use the back of the block 2 ports are utilized.
- If a drain back is wanted, this will add a port needed to each setup. This port needs to be as low as possible.
- The bigger the better for the lines. The "typically" accepted size is 5/8" (or -10 AN for those who have no idea that -10 = 5/8").
- The valve cover vent should always be open for "fresh air" intake. If you have oil coming out of it - you are doing it wrong.

You are making this WAY more difficult than it needs to be.

Also, for those who don't understand it. AN stands for "Army/Navy" standard fittings. This system is based on 16th" measurements. So -4AN = 1/4", -6AN = 3/8", -8AN = 1/2", and so on... It's really not that difficult.

 

If you have enough crankcase pressure you'll blow the lid off the paint can unless you weld to top on

 

Similar to the welds on his intake manifold?

 

if I'm a lost cause, why give me info? I'm a kid? Oh noes, lemme back down, its getting tense in here.

 

Why do I need pride to construct an oil catch can? Why am I being criticized for something you guys simply don't agree with, or think is a "bad" idea? This forum is starting to turn out like every other shitty car forum. Go ahead, blame all of your horrible criticism on me, I'm waiting.


Why would a small paint can NOT work? It will be air tight, so whats the problem, tacky? Cheap? QQ. Haters gonna hate. And this is WITHOUT any jb weld.

 

Being tight and being able to withstand pressurization from the inside are completely different. You're using a catch can to vent crankcase pressure, and using a thin aluminum can to do it that wasn't remotely designed to withstand something like that... But you know what.. DO YOU.

THAT is why you're being ragged on... man, this people's skins are paper thin. Grow some backbones, guys.. my goodness.

 

Not to mention some small cans are steel... If the inside starts to corrode there's a possibility of injesting pieces of the can into your head or crankcase, depending on where you're venting from, and damaging the motor

 

And pressure inside a crankcase can be huge... Enough to push oil past seals and shove the dipstick right out of its hole... That paint can lid has such a large surface area that if you were to put even 5 pounds per square inch of pressure behind it... it'll just pop off

 

Guys.... There is a vent on the can, depending how the inside is laid out it CAN work perfectly fine. One suggestion I have is that you want your vent size to be equil to or larger diameter than the two inlets, or just use 2. My suggestion if you can is to remove your OEM "black box" an use that to feed your breather rather than the ports on the back I the block and you should develop less oil in your can.

Something like this:



While its not ideal it's a start and YOU made it and had fun doing so.

 

People are being critical of the paint can for one reason..... It's ghetto as f**k. Will it work? Probably. I mean if you can take pride in a paint can being in your engine bay then go for it. At the end of the day its hour car. But when you ask for advice don't get mad when a few guys try to steer you in the direction of a more proper method. Especially when your asking guys who tend to help a lot of ppl and want to steer ppl in the right directions. BWR makes a 4 line setup with 2 filters for less then 400. Lines and fittings included.

 

Yeah yeah.. the general census here is to pay top dollar and that "should" make it work. But I see over and over again on here people pay top dollar and still go threw rebuilds over and over again..
I say use the paint can if it works than well done. And that **** is polished .

if it doesn't pay 45 bucks from road race and get a small catch can.
400 dollars for a catch can setup on a car that isn't making over 600whp is wothless.

People need to stop removing the creativity from people when that needs to promoted.
If we did what others told us all the time we wouldn't be messing with cars we'll all be doctors or lawyers.

 

Lol I have a venom black mamba energy drink can as my catch can! Lol wrks just fine but if course I'm only makin 375whp ......and it doesn't see the track. Just a lil fun every now and then I do plan on gettin a real can tho

 

I've had a good laugh reading this... But, in all fairness, I don't think its that bad providing he can guarantee the lid will stay on under heavy conditions. I got to give credit to the guy for thinking outside the box (or outside the tin lol). Maybe he can be the "Leonardo Da Vinci" of H-T ??? Sorry, enough of my stupid humor...

Its something different I know, but as long as it works and does the job its suppose to do then who cares ? Its a catch can (or tin)... not a Egay retard pile of sh*t turbo...

 

Ive seen this pic, but one thing I don't get. I read when under boost the PCV is rendered useless? I know the port on the black of the block is quite large and I know it could vent easily, but can someone please help me understand? Because I really like this idea.


With the paint can, I am leaning away from it a little, but not sure yet. I plan on running TWO breathers (thanks for the tip to run a breather larger than the two lines coming in, makes sense)

I would JB weld the lid shut, or just have it welded.

 

With a catchcan you don't use a pcv... How many times do we have to tell you????

 

I'll make this short and quick, but first an explanation.

First of all, you know me to try and be respectful and professional as much as I possibly can. In some cases, even a bit of tough love is in order, but in the end, whether it is approval or disapproval of certain items I try to be tolerant, impartial, and most of all... patient.

I normally do NOT condone or suggest anyone post material from PMs; after all, they are in fact, private messages. However, in this particular circumstance I feel that its necessary to point out that as patient as I am, I will not tolerate verbal abuse from anyone, especially when its unwarranted.

Look, I know that people get an attitude when they feel as though they are not being treated with at least a secular respect. At the same time, when someone isn't being clear about a particular situation regarding unfamiliar equipment that they attempting to use, to be horridly disrespectful is something that no one should tolerate.

What I'm posting is something I normally never would, as it was based upon a private message...Something I don't condone. I'm only doing to show others that this is not the way that one should ever send a message or talk about a situation. If you're that angry, don't bang on the keyboard...calm down, take a breath, and try to type more clearly with your statement.. or even post a video of the situation.. but don't do what is being posted below.

He starts off with this..


My response

Still no response about any background, so he comes with this.

I'm not sure what prelude fittings he's even talking about... So I keep it simple.

So.. my man decides to go apesh!t, instead of explaining what the sam hell he's referring to.: Instead I receive this response..


So, I simply respond:

I'm sorry Travisbiggie, but this is not the way to receive help.. This isn't bashing or trying to humiliate you. this is to show how NOT to treat people..

Regardless, good luck to you and your endeavors.

Sorry for the disturbance folks.. back to regularly scheduled programming

 

Lol lmao lulz

Travis take a step back from the car for a bit bro its getting the best of you..
Take your time don't rush.

If you can't get to certain parts of your car properly you need to stop being lazy and remove things.
Your intake manifold for example here, which is why I'm sure you stripped those threads cause you tried to work around it.

Do some more research, post as many pics as you can. Everyone can only help you as much as you help us... Pictures are worth a million words

 

He already cross threaded the two ports on the back of the block already...

 

Private message public, childish? Did I offend you? Oh gee...

Lets make this simple.

I appreciate your help, truly I do, but when my blatant question is ignored with an insult (time to get real equipment), that crossed the line. THATS YOUR ****ING OPINION, NOT FACT. Kindly don't help me anymore, I don't want it. Even in the past you would reply and go off topic with your opinions about something irrelevant to the topic. I come off as a dick sure, but I feel insulted, so you know what I do, defend myself.


Anyways, put some more hours into it, and I got the fitting into the block, it took about 15 tries to get it aligned but I got it in, and its not leaking, thank god.

Currently having 2 3/4 taps welded into my valve cover, and thinking about what else I should do to vent my motor. I was thinking about opening up the inner part of a prelude fitting and putting that into the block, the side that isn't stripped of course... I'm sure I would benefit from it but has anyone only ran one fitting from the block? What should I do with the pcv? The two hoses on the top are completely disconnected from the box, so maybe I should install fittings on the pcv too?