Hi, is there any way to check on a tune what the base timing and ignition timing was set at during the tuning process?

Also, I'm having a very rough idle but WOT seems to be fine. I datalogged and the stock o2 sensor was showing average numbers, .81 full throttle and .69 on deceleration, but I hooked up a wideband today and it says i'm super lean on idle. Is it possible to be super lean on idle yet fine on WOT? (I haven't been able to check WOT with the wideband because I had to take my slave cylinder off to do a boost leak test)

*I used two different tps sensors and IACV's and it still gave me the rough idle. Map sensor is an AEM 3.5bar which I doubt is bad but didn't have time today to switch to stock and see if that was the problem, but I don't think a map would cause a bad idle. Just not be able to start the car.

Here is my setup for reference to the tune:

-99 Civic Si (B16a2)
-S300 in po6 converted to VTEC
Modifications that may affect ecu/tune and could cause a problem(?):
-1000cc precision injectors (10ohm 10watt inline resistors installed on each power wire)
-255 walbro fuel pump
-GSR cams
-Aeromotive FPR (42&52 psi base pressure at WOT still giving me idle problems, kinda ruled fuel pressure out for idle problem)
-CP pistions 9:1 81mm (stock bore) (Got 150psi on all 4 cold and at operating temp.)

I am also using projected tip spark plugs, NGK Iridum IX gapped at .028 (I know they're frowned upon for boost but I didn't know they were projected tip till I started installing them)

I tried to list all the relevant info, if I missed anything please let me know


Also, if there are any tuners here that can quickly scan my tunes and see if there's anything out of the ordinary I'd greatly appreciate it? I can't seem to upload the calibration on here but I can e-mail you the files. Please post here or PM me. Thanks in advance for any helpful input!

 

Running a 3.5BAR MAP sensor can definitely cause idle problems, especially if you aren't tuned for idle correctly. It's also pointless, unless you're seeing 30+ PSI.

Who did your tuning?

 

Well, my car was boosted before and I acquired the exact turbo(newly rebuilt 250mi), mani, and dp that was on the car before and I planned on making big numbers so I just decided to use the previous owners tune(Made 300pump, 330race on a mustang dyno). I pieced the whole kit together almost exactly as he had it, because they were parts I was going to buy anyways, and uploaded his tune on my s300 and fired it up. There were times where the idle was good, but 1k which was the best the tuner could get it to without dying while letting go of the throttle abruptly, but after warming up and revving a bit the idle went rough. It's been doing that ever since but idle does turn normal sometimes after erasing the ecu and uploading the tune anew.

I just checked and I'm using the same MAP sensor as the previous owner

It was tuned by Jan at Speed Industry but he no longer works there. i believe he lives somewhere southwest if I'm not mistaken

 

The MAP sensor you have is still overkill. MAP sensors that can read higher also have problems with resolution. That's why you should fit your MAP to the boost you're running. That might not be the problem, though.

Is the ECU throwing/storing any codes?

 

Nope, that's why I'm stumped. Doesn't and has never thrown one since I've installed. The only time it has is when I unplugged a sensor so i know it's working.

I could put my stock MAP sensor on temporarily and change the setting on the calibration to stock MAP, in parameters, and it shouldn't bother the tune right? because you do bring up a good point and if the ide settles then I know what the problem may be.

 

I would give that a try, yes. I would also consider taking the car to a tuner to have it re-tuned. Without any codes stored, the problem might be all in the tune.

 

if you can post you maps from s300 then maybe someone can give some guidance.

but it sounds like you just need to have the car retuned. regardless if you used all the same parts, you still changed the setup from the original tune. go have a reputable tuner clean everything up and you will be fine.

3.5bar map shouldn't be a problem if tuned properly. my car has an almost identical setup and idles just fine

i would also suggest installing a wideband o2 permanently, the oem narrowband readings are telling you much. you mentioned you are lean at idle, how lean? did you try adding some fuel to see if the idle improved? what is your target idle and IACV duty cycle?

 

I'll try the stock map sensor after work just to rule that out as being the problem.

It's not letting me upload my calibrations, is there any other way to get them up here? I could email them to you so you can see all the parameters for yourself. I'm at work so won't be able to check the iacv duty cycle till after work, but I have the calibrations saved in my email and could send an email with the tune your way. But the target idle is set at 850rpm currently.

As far as the wideband, I just finished installing it yesterday but haven't connected it to the s300 yet for data logging (I planned on doing it today after work). I did increase the fuel pressure 10psi and it's still giving me the rough idle and wideband is showing too lean to even read. It's an AEM UEGO _

 

I think I need to take a step back, clear my head, and recheck everything one by one again lol

 

you can't upload the actual tune file. you need to do a "Print Screen" of the sManager. Then save it as a picture, then upload.

Honestly, I would not swap the map sensor. if the s300 is calibrated for 3.5bar map then it shouldnt be a problem. check all your idle settings and maybe play with the fuel trims in the idle columns.

i would also suggest leaving the fuel pressure at the stock setting

 

Yea, I think I'm gonna mess with the idle columns a bit. Only reason I didn't is because I thought the idle had to be smooth before you messed with that stuff. As far as the fuel trims, I'm gonna have to do some specific research on the matter before I even think of touching the tune cuz I do no want to mess anything up. Ill post up all relevant screen shots tonight and hopefully you'll be able to help me. Ill post up fuel trim, idle, map, and tps parameters. Is there any other screen shots you'd like me to post?

 

the more the better, but i cant guarantee that i can help as i am not a tuner. i can compare them to my parameters and see if there are any noticable differences though

 

Any help is appreciated. And since you said your setup is similar to mine, an error may be easy for you to spot. I'll post the stuff tonight.

 

Here are the more important parameters. Which graphs would you need to see? If any

 

what about the actual fuel and ignition maps?

one thing that may be a problem is the idle tab. the min idle is set to 850 but then the idle vs water temp table has values much higher than that (1500 at operating temp).

what exactly is the idle problem anyways?

 

hmm, good eye. I just checked in the S300 help guide and those numbers are lower!

Here's the maps for low and high ignition/fuel

 

It's a very rough idle, as if it were cammed with very high lobes. It literally shakes the whole car. Sounds like a wimpy muscle car lol

I'm gonna change my IACV again because when I hold rpm at 1.5k it'll drop down to .5k then jump to 1.5k and so on, but only with throttle slightly opened. And when holding throttle at 3-5k, it's not giving me a constant rev. It's as if the o2 sensor is bad but i'm not getting a code. I don't remember it ever doing this non-boosted though.

i'm also going to get new wires and an MSD ignition because I have a feeling it may have something to do with that. My timing might've been off for some time, non-boosted, so I think it might've taken it's toll on the ignition coil. Setting the ignition timing was a hassle and i'm not even sure it's set right because of the rough idle.

oh and idk if it matters or not but the ecu is a pr4 converted to vtec, I mistook it for a po6.

*Should I just mess with those settings and see if it fixes anything? I'll save separate files so I don't mess up the original tune and if it helps I'll just overide the other tune?

 

Also, idle drops about 3-4hundred RPM just after reaching operating temp (174ish degrees it was)

 

This is a major contributor to your issue.
There are other issues which likely need to be resolved after resolving the lean idle issue.

 

running lean is contributing to my idle issue? and revving? or where you referring specifically to what dpetro1 pointed out?

that's kinda what i'm trying to figure out

 

The concept is really simple.
If your car is idling at a lean air fuel ratio the car will not have a stable idle.
In other words if a motor doesn't have enough fuel to run efficiently at a specific load level it won't run correctly at that load level.

I am sure there are several issues contributing to your problems, but the fact that you said the car is running lean at idle is the most important contributor.

 

LOL no I understand that! I was just trying to clear it up whether you were being vague or if you were refering to the idle speed vs. coolant temp setting that dpetro1 pointed out. sorry for the confusion!

Do you think what he pointed out could be a problem? He said he's not a tuner so I don't know if I should mess with that or not because not every tune has the same settings

 

The target idle rpm vs coolant temp isn't going to cause a rough idle you are describing.
1500 rpm target idle is a bit high for stock gsr cams. I would suggest trying 850 rpms.

Ultimately your problem is tuning related. Richen up the idle to a target lamda of 1.0 then proceed with troubleshooting/tuning.

 

do my fuel tables look off? the 1st column numbers on the high speed fuel are super low...does that matter?

 

shouldn't matter. you should never be in that column anyways