I just put a new engine, trans, clutch, etc. in my 88 CRX
The engine is a d16z6 head, manifolds, distributor, ECU, ...
on a D16A6 block. I also installed an AEM cold air intake.
I just started it up today, and after a few anxious minutes the rings set and the engine started running smoothly. Most everything is good, no codes, no leaks, the trans and shift linkage I rebuilt are working great. The engine sounds awesome. The new clutch is an EXEDY 08801B Racing Clutch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00 and is very grabby. I have only driven the car about 5 miles and I have already burned rubber (when I didn't mean to) and stalled the car. I hope this improves as the clutch wears in, or I will just have to learn to live with it.

The big problem is the engine bogs when I open the throttle, it is not super bad and I can drive the car, but it is definitely a problem. I am thinking maybe the fuel pressure regulator is bad or the wrong one, or the fuel pump is not up to the job (it is the original). Any suggestions or insights are welcome.

 

Any codes? DonT forget to change the oil after the initial breakin. We can go from there. What ecu are you running? What O2 sensor? 4 wire or 1. All new tuneup components?

 

No codes, stock P28 ECU, 4 wire O2 sensor, new distributor, wires, plugs.
I have Amsoil breakin oil in it now, will change at about 50 miles.

 

Well you can easily do a few checks to see whats going on.
1st I would do is vacuum test.
2nd is check the timing , mechanical and igntion
3rd is a leakdown test to see if rings are seated well and also valves.

do those and report back

 

The engine bogging problem is mostly better now.

Replacing the fuel filter helped, but I suspect this just gave a boost to a weak fuel pump. I have ordered a fuel pressure gauge, and will see if the fuel pump needs replacing.

On re-checking the ignition timing, I discovered I had timed at TDC. This happened because the distributor was almost all the way advanced, and fooled me. I set the distributor as far advanced as it would go, that only gave me about 5 degrees BTDC. I took off the covers to check the timing belt, but that was fine, all the marks lined up. I had installed a new aftermarket distributor, I replaced it with a used OEM one and that solved the problem! I have used aftermarket distributors in the past on Hondas, and they had been fine, and they are almost free compared to the dealer price. I will see if I have any records as to where I bought the POS distributor, and post it here.

 

Problem: Lack of power below 3000 rpm--IT WAS THE ECU

After checking every sensor on the engine, and not finding anything wrong,
I noticed that the shop manual always said to replace the ECU if nothing else solved the problem.
So I converted a P28 automatic ecu to manual (remove R17 and R18, jumper R18), and things were instantly better...