Today while changing my manifold gasket, I noticed oil in unusual spots.

Oil covered the front portion of the block, the bottom of the exhaust manifold, and even on top of the valve cover directly above the oil dip stick!!

Could I be having excessive crank case pressure? Is it time to install a oil catch can on the two block fittings in the back?

I do have an oil pressure gauge. I think I'm going to install it. I know Ive read them before, but what kind of oil pressure should I be looking for at warm idle, and WOT?

I would tap the valve cover for an oil catch can, but I don't know the cost of tapping.

thanks

 

Time for a catch can. I had the same problem. Kept blowing the dipstick out @ 12psi and shooting oil all over my freshly painted white hood. Got a good catch can setup and haven't had any problems since.

 

Thanks for the reply. I know there are many places to route an oil catch can. Where did you route yours?

 

From your signature I see you have a B18B1?

Are you using the B18B or B18A valve cover?

Do you have a PVC valve?

Does your engine have a baffle box on the back behind the distributor on the block?
This:

 

I will say, the honda block fittings doesnt do a good job of separating oil from air and alot of oil gets sucked out. If you look at endyn's catch, they have modded the fittings so theres a little hose that goes into the block further then stock.

I will say, it has helped my pressure, but I plan on widening the OE barb port on the VC to a -8 or -10 (depends on how much room) for better flow and drilling out my oil cap and using foam/screen to help relieve pressure and relieve the majority of pressure from the back block fittings

 

Even the modified Endyn fittings suck.

I've gone back to the breather box modified, similar to this:


Routed into the Endyn can is a huge improvement over the Endyn can with the modified fittings.

MY next step is to run a drain-back directly to the pan, BELOW the oil level to aloe for proper drainage.

 

^^

Looks like it will work really well..

I dont have the black box on my block, so Im stuck with the fittings. The block fittings that convert to -10 are 25ea and Im not paying 50 bucks for 2 fittings..lol

But I think with the added venting on top at the VC will help the overall pressure.

 

Venting from the valve cover IMO is not the best route to take unless there is no other option.

The pressure is produced in the block, using the oil drains in the head to vent the crankcase is not the way the system is designed and the air/oil are trying to occupy the same area going oppisate directions. It absolutely can work but there are more efficient ways to vent the system. The 1 3/8 hole in the block seems to be a good cost effective method.

 

you need to vent the block, 50 for 2 fittings isnt bad. excessive crankcase pressure can cause ring problems, gasket issues, etc. it can even force oil back up the turbo oil return

so whats cheaper? 50 bucks for fittings or a new turbo or motor? you can't cheap out on the little things... you gotta pay to play when it comes to building a car properly

 

What I meant is 50 for 2 -10 fittings or 24 for 2 OEM fittings. Each is using 1/2" hose. Just one has more bling then the other.

 

10an is what you need... the stock fittings suck, the endyns suck less but still suck, i've had both and they just dont provide a big enough port with a large enough surface area... ive actually seen the stock and endyn fittings suck/blow oil right out of the motor... the stock fittings are 1/2 od, making them more like 3/8 id... 10-an is a 5/8 id hose, not 1/2.

 

Actually......
The -10 an fitting is most likely to push oil, it has the most direct path to flow oil.

The plug you removing in the back of the block is part of the oil drain from the head and any pressure across that port will push oil period. The Endyn parts are modified to help reduce this effect, but the placement just isn't ideal.

 

The extension of the endyn fitting puts the ensure of the tube right in the middle of the oil returning from the head. And since the port is so small it increases the velocity and suction of the pressure leaving the fitting.

I've never seen a 10an fitting in that location suck oil. Considering the port is far from the oil path and has a larger diameter gases flow through the fitting at a lower velocity, reducing the chances of drawing oil through

 

Hmm.. valid point indeed.

After I enlarge the VC barb, if Im still getting oil blow out, ill change everything to a -10

 

Point taken. I was going to get my valve cover tapped today but the pressure is in the block.

What fittings are you guys talking about, the fittings into the block? Are these them? Will a honda dealership have these, and what is the thread size for the block?


I do have a pcv valve, the hose connecting to the intake manifold is not on anything right now, and I'm not sure of the other hose.

How does the venting work with those fitting on the pcv black box? I thought the pcv valve is no good when in boost?


Also, Could I just run a hose from the pcv, and valve cover to a catch can? I read tapping the block is only really needed for 400+whp. How would I go about running a line from the pcv? The small stock black hose or should I have a fitting welded in? I'm clueless on this, but I am favoring doing this method than the others above.

thanks

 

http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html


If your confused, read the PCV section in that link

 

I'm not sure by your post above if you have a black breather box or not, but yes you remove the PCV valve and route that to a breather of some type.

I removed both fittings from the tank, and ran them to a Morroso breather tank. Simple, cheap, effective at 450+. I just leave the nipple on the valve cover open, with the block properly vented it doesn't pass any oil.

 

There are quite a few different opinions on how to plumb the PCV system for a turbo application. As long as the crankcase is not being pressurized by the intake charge pressure and the crankcase has some way to vent pressure you'll be in good shape. Probably the worst thing you can do is to add a valve cover breather filter to the fitting on the valve cover and retain the plumbing for the stock PCV valve. This would force the crankcase to vent through the valve cover breather filter

 

so if I tap my valve cover with two -10an fittings and run em to a catch can, will this relieve pressure from the crank case? What I'd probably do is also run a line from the black box to the catch can too. do i use a -10an fitting? do i need it welded on the box? and also do i completely remove the pcv valve? my gut feeling is that tapping the valve cover wont relieve the crank case pressure. I don't want oil shootin out anymore

 

honda will not have those fittings, they are aftermarket.. while venting the valve cover will work, it generally takes more fittings, which is why you see most people run 4 lines... the fact that where the valve cover is tapped it has baffles restricts the efficiency of the venting system, which is why most people vent the block, as it has the least restriction and vents rather well, plus you have a lower chance of sucking up fine amounts of oil, since the cams rotation does a good job of tossing oil everywhere... on the return gallies its just running down the block.

also, it requires less work since the holes in the block are already tapped, you dont need to pull your valvecover off, strip the finish, drill holes, weld the fittings on, repaint the valve cover and re-install it. you simply pull 2 plugs and thread in the new ones, run lines and boom you have a crankcase evacuation system thats cheaper in the long run

 

Can you link me to the fittings for the block? I have no idea where to look.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-B-SE...306#vi-content

are there any cheaper alternatives?

 

those are the stock fittings that suck

http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gobseblfiset.html
not to be a go autoworks fan boy (because im not) but their kit includes a quality block off plug for the stock black box.

 

cool thanks.

So would be running these block fittings, AND two taps in the valve cover to a catch can be overkill for 300whp? Or would that be the absolute best set up?

10$ cheaper, includes plug too

 

those fittings are all you need. tapping the valvecover in addition is just pointless at your power level

 

cool.

I heard you shouldnt removed the PCV if its a daily driver. I don't consider mine one, but I do drive it when its nice out, so sometimes daily, sometimes a couple times a week.

If I run these fittings and remove the black box/pcv, What should I do with the nipple on the valve cover? currently a hose is connected to it hanging down behind the motor. Should I put a filter on this nipple, or should I route it to the catch can?

Thanks for your help