http://www.xenocron.com/t1-bseries-b...ngs-p-613.html

 

you really just need to remove it... with the block vented the pcv is rendered pointless, plus theres no way to plumb it back and if you hook it up to the intercooler piping youre just pressurizing the crank case.

pull it off and either run a line from the valvecover to your catchcan, put a filter on it or just cap it

 

with that setup you have no way to plug the hole left by the breather box (read: you need to remove it) you can either go find a freeze plug (34.2mm IIRC, dont quote me) or get the autoworks kit that has one.

 

I am buying the freeze plug.

Does the size of the catch can matter?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-QUALITY...4178e5&vxp=mtr

My brother has this catch can on his supercharged grand prix. He took the brass fittings off and bored out the innard part of the fitting to have it match the brass fitting where the hose connects to. He also attached a hose on the fittings inside, so the vapor travels to the bottom of the can, is this a good idea? And If I get this catch can, Should I put the hoses on both fittings? I also plan on tapping this catch can to install a filter, and to add a barb to connect the valve cover nipple.

more about what I'm talking about : http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...mode=1&smode=1

Thanks bro, appreciate your time and help.

 

You need a can with 2 inlets and a filter on top, and a drainback line if you so wish

none of the ebay cans will work, the ports are not big enough for a 10-an fitting... you need one that has 1-an fittings installed to begin with. none of the ebay catchcans allow for atmospheric venting nor to they allow for a drainback feature

 

I am not using an metal fittings for the lines, I am simply going to use 1/2" heater hose and clamp it on the block fittings, and to the oil catch can. I think the fittings on that catch can will be good enough, they are a tad bit smaller, but I think itll be sufficient. Like mentioned, I would install a barb to install a mini filter I have.

 

I am picking up this catch can tomorrow on craigslist for 30 bucks. I will install a tap on the top for a breather filter



after reading this thread OVER and OVER and OVER, I am still undecided on how to route up my catch can. This is so ****ing frustrating. I would ideally like to tap my valve cover, but I want to relieve the pressure from the crank case directly, but then I worry about tons of oil being sucked into the catch can from the two fittings on the block. I hear the oem fittings and aftermarket fittings suck, so which do I get?!?

after a good 5 hours of research, i'm still stumped -_-

 

the oem fittings suck, aftermarket do not.

that catchcan still does not have big enough ports to thread 2 10-an fittings into it, the holes are too close together

 

Alright, I'm going to make my own catch can. like mentioned, I'm using heater hose without fittings.

 

then the 10-an fittings i listed and you listed will not work, they arent hose barbs and you cant fit hose over them... they are threaded for an fittings.... and they are not 1/2, they are 5/8

 

Why can't I just slide hose over it and clamp it? I'm doing it now with my oil return line.

Do they sell fittings with barbed fittings?

 

Yes you can get a female an to barbed fitting. More $$$ ~$30

 

I've never seen anyone make a Honda block fitting that's 10an with a hose barb.. No one makes a threaded portion that big.

 

Correct, it would require an additional piece.

 

i understand that is the correct way, but I think Itll be fine if I slide the other over it and clamp it. The hose will be snug, and I'll even put thread tape on it.

 

Thread tape won't help... An fitting threads are much deeper and have a steeper profile and were not designed for thread tape.. They seal using the 37 degree surface on the snout of the fitting. They'll end up cutting the hose before you can get it on... And when you clamp it down the threads will dig through the hose...

 

All the info posted in here and you still have no clue how to vent the crankcase?

As long as the crankcase is not being pressurized by the intake charge pressure and the crankcase has some way to vent pressure you'll be in good shape.

 

I have 2 -10AN fittings welded to the valve cover and a -10AN fitting welded to the top of the factory black box and it works great.

 

Good to know. Ill use barbed fittings instead.


So what im thinking, is welding two large barbed fittings onto
The front of my vc, and ONE fitting to the back of the block. I keep thinking the two vc fittings wont be enough to vent the crank cause pressure sufficently. Any opinions on this would be great, if not, i will run both lines from the block, plus remove the pcv entirely and plug the hole, or just tap two fittings in the VC and call it a day, leaving the pcv intact.

Is two fittings on the vc and two in the block too much ventilation for 300whp, or would this be perfect. I want to be certain i dont shoot oil from my dip stick again.

 

this. dont forget the three threads he made lol