New to HT,Problems with integra..
First of all,i'd like to say hello to everyone at honda tech!i am new to the site and have gotten a lot of help reading posts from this site!Hopefully you guys can help me with the very tough problem i am having with my car..it turns over nicely,but just wont fire up.if i really hassle the gas pedal and crank with starter fluid,ill get some light sputtering and/or a loud backfire after a while from the exhaust,sometimes in the intake manifold...
please help this is just breaking me down pretty bad.i have invested way too much money in this than i should have..what am i overlooking?if you even remotely think it is something,let me know and i will check it.any questions,please just ask.thanks in advance!
I have recently rebuilt a 91 integra ls
b18a motor
Polished Head
Brand new B18b cams
Brand new Jdm racing Piston rings
Brand new racing Rod bearings
Brand new b18b valves
Brand new valvesprings/retainers/keepers
Brand new valve seals
Brand new head gasket
Brand new Ignition coil
Brand new Ignition control module
Brand new TEC Distributor
OBD0
what i know so far:
dash lights all come on and check engine light,and they stay well lit.i can hear all the relay clicks and my fuel pump primes,and the check engine light goes off after a second.
I do have spark(checked by cranking the motor with all spark plugs in the plug wires,laying on the valve cover).snappy solid white sparks
I have Fuel,up to the rails at least.I dont know if my injectors are SPRAYING,but my plugs are wet when i pull them after cranking.
I have my timing to what i understand to be at TDC(Top dead center).the crank marking lined up with the pointer on the timing cover and the cams were put in place so that the pins were in the holes.Then made sure my rotor on the dizzy points to cyl.#1.
I had all connections and hoses color-coded before i pulled the head,and they all seem to be in the correct places.ive swapped them around just to double check,still no change
All grounds are connected and secured,and i even replaced the motor's ground wire from the valve cover,and put it in a better spot.
I have unplugged some sensors to see if maybe i had a bad sensor,still no changes(i dont know if there are some that i should take a look at,if you can think of any,let me know please!)
my ecu shows code 1 quick flash(02 sensor),so im assuming it is in working condition..
i can hear all relays click,my check engine light goes off after a second,and i can hear my fuel pump prime everytime.
all fuses have been pulled and checked.all good,none blown..
The problem has GOT to be something stupid that im missing here...Im completely stumped,I have no idea what to do.
please help this is just breaking me down pretty bad.i have invested way too much money in this than i should have..what am i overlooking?if you even remotely think it is something,let me know and i will check it.any questions,please just ask.thanks in advance!
I have recently rebuilt a 91 integra ls
b18a motor
Polished Head
Brand new B18b cams
Brand new Jdm racing Piston rings
Brand new racing Rod bearings
Brand new b18b valves
Brand new valvesprings/retainers/keepers
Brand new valve seals
Brand new head gasket
Brand new Ignition coil
Brand new Ignition control module
Brand new TEC Distributor
OBD0
what i know so far:
dash lights all come on and check engine light,and they stay well lit.i can hear all the relay clicks and my fuel pump primes,and the check engine light goes off after a second.
I do have spark(checked by cranking the motor with all spark plugs in the plug wires,laying on the valve cover).snappy solid white sparks
I have Fuel,up to the rails at least.I dont know if my injectors are SPRAYING,but my plugs are wet when i pull them after cranking.
I have my timing to what i understand to be at TDC(Top dead center).the crank marking lined up with the pointer on the timing cover and the cams were put in place so that the pins were in the holes.Then made sure my rotor on the dizzy points to cyl.#1.
I had all connections and hoses color-coded before i pulled the head,and they all seem to be in the correct places.ive swapped them around just to double check,still no change
All grounds are connected and secured,and i even replaced the motor's ground wire from the valve cover,and put it in a better spot.
I have unplugged some sensors to see if maybe i had a bad sensor,still no changes(i dont know if there are some that i should take a look at,if you can think of any,let me know please!)
my ecu shows code 1 quick flash(02 sensor),so im assuming it is in working condition..
i can hear all relays click,my check engine light goes off after a second,and i can hear my fuel pump prime everytime.
all fuses have been pulled and checked.all good,none blown..
The problem has GOT to be something stupid that im missing here...Im completely stumped,I have no idea what to do.
Last edited by JuicedUpRice; Jun 22, 2012 at 11:46 PM.
ive read somewhere that if you checked for spark in the way that you described there is a good chance you fried your ignition coil.
You may have spark, but it could be very weak. Try swapping out a known working distributor?
I'm by no-means saying that is your problem, but it's an idea..
You may have spark, but it could be very weak. Try swapping out a known working distributor?
I'm by no-means saying that is your problem, but it's an idea..
ive read somewhere that if you checked for spark in the way that you described there is a good chance you fried your ignition coil.
You may have spark, but it could be very weak. Try swapping out a known working distributor?
I'm by no-means saying that is your problem, but it's an idea..
You may have spark, but it could be very weak. Try swapping out a known working distributor?
I'm by no-means saying that is your problem, but it's an idea..
also,i have extra coils and ignition control modules,as i did have a no spark situation before i swapped this new dizzy in..but now spark is back and looks really good.they're like
Last edited by JuicedUpRice; Jun 20, 2012 at 11:58 AM.
Have you verified that your fuel injectors are actually switching back off after they click on? What I'm trying to get across is are your fuel injectors constantly stuck on? Have you tried another ecu?
EDIT: Do you have the plug wires arranged correctly on the distributor? Also, just for the hell of it, unplug your alternator(larger circular plug on the alternator) and try to start your car.
EDIT: Do you have the plug wires arranged correctly on the distributor? Also, just for the hell of it, unplug your alternator(larger circular plug on the alternator) and try to start your car.
did you ever check the o2 censer? check ignition coil and check ICM...check the coil assembly mounted within the distributor ,check condition of spring... cool mini video's lol were did you get them?
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Have you verified that your fuel injectors are actually switching back off after they click on? What I'm trying to get across is are your fuel injectors constantly stuck on? Have you tried another ecu?
EDIT: Do you have the plug wires arranged correctly on the distributor? Also, just for the hell of it, unplug your alternator(larger circular plug on the alternator) and try to start your car.
EDIT: Do you have the plug wires arranged correctly on the distributor? Also, just for the hell of it, unplug your alternator(larger circular plug on the alternator) and try to start your car.
I have not been able to try another ecu..nobody i know has an obd0 integra..
am i safe to try an obd1-obd2 ecu????
I have thought of things such as this,but im still baffled that the car does not even attempt to fire up...it just turns and turns..theres no kick to it..the starter is the only thing turning this motor..
I have thought of things such as this,but im still baffled that the car does not even attempt to fire up...it just turns and turns..theres no kick to it..the starter is the only thing turning this motor..
Voltage at injectors should be 12.5V or better.
You say you have good spark and fuel, that only leaves compression, or lack of, check valve lash, maybe it's as simple as valves to tight and not closing properly, low to no compression.
Because the only "firing" you seem to be getting is back firing, I would confirm both valve and ign. timing and firing order, 1342. 94
You say you have good spark and fuel, that only leaves compression, or lack of, check valve lash, maybe it's as simple as valves to tight and not closing properly, low to no compression.
Because the only "firing" you seem to be getting is back firing, I would confirm both valve and ign. timing and firing order, 1342. 94
ok.thank you guys very much!that leaves me with some stuff to do either tomorrow or this weekend.i will keep everybody updated
keep posting ideas if you have any,the more stuff i can tackle in a day,the better.
keep posting ideas if you have any,the more stuff i can tackle in a day,the better.

i will be working on my integra today(messing with things that were recommended to check),and i didnt want to stop anybody that had any ideas,so let me know what you think!thanks!
Voltage at injectors should be 12.5V or better.
You say you have good spark and fuel, that only leaves compression, or lack of, check valve lash, maybe it's as simple as valves to tight and not closing properly, low to no compression.
Because the only "firing" you seem to be getting is back firing, I would confirm both valve and ign. timing and firing order, 1342. 94
You say you have good spark and fuel, that only leaves compression, or lack of, check valve lash, maybe it's as simple as valves to tight and not closing properly, low to no compression.
Because the only "firing" you seem to be getting is back firing, I would confirm both valve and ign. timing and firing order, 1342. 94
thank you so much man..we actually got the car running today after doing the valve lash.it ran for a second,then wouldnt start again.
i noticed when i was adjusting the rocker arms,some of them wouldnt come all the way up(as in the rocker arm is jammed against the cam)...what does that tell you?does it have anything to do with the fact that i have b18b internals in a b18a motor?\
it also seems as though we HAVE to spray starting fluid to get this thing kick started..im questioning my injectors..i didnt ever get a chance to mess with them..
my fuel pump primes and i have 37-40 psi of fuel pressure
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Last edited by JuicedUpRice; Jun 22, 2012 at 07:33 PM.
now,the only problems im seeming to have is
i noticed when i was adjusting the rocker arms,some of them wouldnt come all the way up(as in the rocker arm is jammed against the cam)...what does that tell you?does it have anything to do with the fact that i have b18b internals in a b18a motor?\
it also seems as though we HAVE to spray starting fluid to get this thing kick started..im questioning my injectors..i didnt ever get a chance to mess with them..
my fuel pump primes and i have 37-40 psi of fuel pressure
the prob isnt solved if your motor is still not running lol. if its starting up with fluid it seems like your prob is coming from fuel. pop out the injectors and see if they are spraying when you try to crank it and go from there. as far as the cams, i believe the only difference between a and b cams was a slightly larger exhaust cam profile(somebody correct me if im wrong?). what exactly do you mean when you say they wont come up all the way? is the cam lobe pushing against it?
the prob isnt solved if your motor is still not running lol. if its starting up with fluid it seems like your prob is coming from fuel. pop out the injectors and see if they are spraying when you try to crank it and go from there. as far as the cams, i believe the only difference between a and b cams was a slightly larger exhaust cam profile(somebody correct me if im wrong?). what exactly do you mean when you say they wont come up all the way? is the cam lobe pushing against it?
also,its not just cams,its the whole valvetrain..
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