Ok so I bought this 1997 honda accord for 600 not knowing condition of the engine but body and interior are great shape well it wouldnt start so I got it towed home well I did get it home and started thinking what could cause this well so far I have replaced the

Dizzy
Tps
did a bunch of wire testing

I got the thing started well it idles and runs fine. Until about 3000 to 3100 rpms ish feels like rev limiter. So went and got the codes read

P0108 Map (i unpluged for test reasons it is fine)
p0335 CPS checked resistance and cleaned connectors (didnt do anything)
p0118 Coolant temp have new one just sitting in my house
p0122 TPS (I forgot to dial it in I did that after the code check)

Now this is my girls car I need this up and running because I dont want her in my car (LMAO) is there any way to test that CPS? without replacing it... Any other ideas on what it could be?

 

Sorry I know yall need the engine info 2.2L non vtec and its a 5spd

 

to test the cps you'll need a special scanner and i would say it was in limp mode due to the fact that the tps wasn't calibrated. is it now? causes for limp modes in hondas and acuras are to many to name. leaks. ignition. fuel etc. if you have calibrated the tps delete codes off ecu and disconnect the negative cable to make sure there deleted. start it up and see if its still in limp mode. if its not it was your tps.

 

just put your girl in your car lol you shouldnt scrape

 

Well its still in limp mode and still pulling that darn code
P0335 and P0118
I can not get that crank pully bolt out I took it down to a local tire shop and 2 other places and they tried with a impact they couldnt either. Is there any sugestions on getting that off?

also shes driving my lifted jeep and I bought the accord for gas and the jeep is mine (haha) its just big and bulky I am thinking about just swapping the engine I got a h22a. I was going to put in my civic but I need that accord running and on the road I am going to one more shop tomorrow and let them try. Also does anyone know where I can order a new CPS for under 200 bucks? or a good brand name one if I do spend 200?

 

have you disconnected the battery to clear the code ?

 

THIS IS OBD2 YOU STILL NEED A SCANNER TO ERASE THE CODE.

 

I went and bought a scanner and erased the codes but after starting it up the code comes right back.

I did however get that crank pully bolt out and opened it up to find half the sensor the sensor on the back side of the crank was broken off its time to bite the bullet and buy a new sensor.
Since this car is new to me, I do have paper work on the t-belt and water pump and tensioner being replaced about 18k miles ago should I replace that or even worry about it?

 

And by the way thanks all for the tips and help... I knew there was some awsome people out there still.

 

Another question is even though i replace my sensor will I have to hook my scanner up to erase the code or just drive it and it will go away?

 

youll need it to erase the code with the scanner. you can drive the car and the code will disappear but it will still be stored in the ecu