Hi, Ive posted a couple of times looking for help with my ZC but havent really got anywhere. My main problem is PASSING THE ETEST and I dont know why I am still failing after...

- New Cat.
- New O2 Sensor
- PM6 ecu looking for the O2 sensor
- Injectors are running consistant 3.5ohms of resistance (working)
- good sparks and new dizzy. (properly wired)
- 180psi compression on all cylinders.
- Doesnt burn copious amounts of oil either.

I am 1000ppm over the limit of CO2 and 5 times the NO%. WTF?!

I am running a DOHC ZC on a PM6 ecu. I am using a PM6 because it looks for an O2 sensor, and I need that to regulate the mixture. The PM7 I had did not look for an O2 but an IMA sensor (which i didnt have), and was running insanely rich, so I pulled it.
Even with the PM6, I am PRODUCING 1100PPM on the CO test and EQUALLY as bad for NO%. So why am I failing the etest SO BADLY!?

Its really pissing me off. I just dont understand what is wrong here.
I would REALLY REALLY appreciate someone giving me some guidance. Are ZC's known to run a lot less efficient or something?? Its killing me I cant drive my EF in this nice weather

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

PS - its in a 1991 Civic Si (D16a6).

Thanks!

 

Well, I've never had to do any of these, but I have always heard these tips:

1- Drive your car for a while just before the inspection to get the cat's hot and burn off any emissions built up (always told 30 minutes of spirited driving)

2- Empty your tank and fill it with premium as it burns cleaner

3- Make sure you have a clean air filter and no build up in the throttle body

4- Change the oil before you go, apparently vapors from dirty old contaminated oil can siphon back through the PCV system and cause higher CO readings

Again, I've never had any problem with emissions and these were some legal things some of my friends did when I lived where emissions and inspections were very strict. There are other ways to try to skirt the test, but I don't know if they're legal or even if they work (****, I don't even know how effective any of those suggestions are), but they're worth a shot, right? I'm sure someone probably has more insight on this. Could be something simple. Good luck man

 

Thanks for the tips. Only problem is, its overdue for its etest, so I cant legally drive it -_- screw it though, Ill tear it around before going in.

Any other mechanical suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

What he said makes sense, but I did not do all of them and it passed.

Mine passed sometime in the winter. My car had been sitting there for a while (2 months).

1. I did this

2. I think I did this, I know the tank was almost empty and I did put some gas in it at one point prior to emissions.

3. Mine had a large cut, didnt change it until a couple of months ago.

4. Did not do this.

My friend told me to unscrew (1 or maybe all bolts I forget to the point where it can be lossend with your hand)

I was going to highlight it but I am work and my computer is running into issues:

http://media.photobucket.com/image/z...3/P6070668.jpg

Between the distributor and oil cap. He said it will retard it enough to pass. Anyhoo did that and I passed.

 

thanks for the advice guys, but Im looking for some tech knowledge as to why my car is running a thousand ppm over the allowed limit. Though these tips and tricks could probably knock me down a couple points, I doubt they will bring me down a thousand ppm lol. I do appreciate the help though

Anyone have any idea as to why Im so tragically over the limit?
Thanks!

 

Make sure the ignition timing isn't advanced. Matter of fact I would (and did) retard it as much as possible for the etest. Replace the PCV - my new one passed the shake test but I believe it was still causing me to suck up too much oil.

Good luck

 

as stated above, Can you take a pic of your dizzy postion where its now. Change your oil. Also double check your electrical stsyem altnator and battery. As a state inspector for the state of texas. Over the last couple of years. Iv'e been seeing more cars and trucks fail do to bad electrical stsyem's. Iv'e had customers such as yourself replace every known part of their car. in the end it ended up being a bad altnator or battery.

 

Sorry it took so long to get back to you.
I took one of the inside and outside of the dizzy.



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I might redo the timing as well. the EXHAUST SMELLS REALLY GASSY. Like raw fuel

 

Not sure why he wanted a picture anyways, I can't tell how far you off just by looking at a picture...


take a timing light and check that **** out. If I remember correctly it should be between 16-18 BTDC (before top dead center)... Set it to 16, it'll help a lot surprisingly. It dropped me about 600 points when I did it from 19BTDC

 

Okay, that means you are not getting complete combustion. New spark plugs and I would replace the rotor and cap if they more than 2 years old. The spark plug leads should be tested for resistance as well. Check the ignition coil according to the factory service manual. Have you pulled the plugs? are they all black? Last I would be suspicious of the injectors and there being a faulty one that is hanging open. These cars have very generous emissions allowances, so passing should be easy stuff. Also put a DVM on the O2 signal wire pre- and post repairs to indicate if you got it to run leaner and go closed loop.

Oh one last thing, is the thermostat opening? Does the motor run hot enough?

 

This

 

PG7 Ecu needed for best results

 

guys! yes! this is the kind of suggestions i need! Thanks a million for the input. Ill try it out and get back to you all about whether it is successful or not.
As for the thermostat, car runs in the proper temp range. The rotor and cap were replaced about a month ago. All buttons are being hit and feeding electricity to all 4 plugs. Plugs look pretty clean and properly gapped. Im thinking of replacing the injectors and sparks anyways... Personally, I think its off time; i cant imagine that it would smell so raw with 4 decent sparks and a reasonable mixture. Must be the timing throwing the mixture out before its fully burned. Seems reasonable??

Thanks again.

 

Do you have the vacuum line for the fuel map sensor hooked up correctly?

 

its been a while since i dealt with a dohc zc, but i remember a similar issue like this. if i remember correctly you can't use the stock a6 distributor on a dohc zc because of the auxiliary exhaust cam sensor. just something to look into. your readings are way to high for all the "quick fixes" people are throwing out there, there is definitely something wrong.

 

When i had a dohc zc back in the day, i sprung for a brand new 89 integra d16a1 dizzy, solved all of my running issues. They were a common problem back then.