Ok so I have a 99 gsr and I did a b20 vtec. I set it to tdc and out it all back together and it wouldn't start. So I was told to flip wires 1 and 4, and 2 and 3 and it started right up perfectly. So I tought I set tdc 180 degrees out so I pull off the timing belt off and reset it but still off same thing. Will it hurt the engine if I leave it like this? It runs perfect just weird. Or is there a way to flip the alternator to fire differently? I heard of someone doing this but can't find how. Thanks

 

Post pics of how you have the spark plug wires.

 

Sounds like you just had them backwards to start with if you switched 1 and 4, then 2 and 3, then it started

 

incorrect firing order. otherwise it wouldn't be "running perfect". i think it's safe to say it's pretty open and shut

 

Here is a video showing how the wires are on backwards and its keeling. I understand the firing order is backwards. But if I set them the proper way it doesn't even try to turn on just cranks. Like if timing was 180 degrees off. Im so confused on why it idles and runs with the firing order backwards.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lzD4...e_gdata_player

 

that is strange. but yes, it will harm the engine if run like that for a long period.
there is something wrong with your timing for sure. pull the valve cover and check cam and crank sync

 

actually, a better way to do this is to pop off your distributor cap, rotate crank to #1 tdc, and check location of the rotor. it should be pointed at #1. where #1 is SUPPOSED to be. if not, either the cam and crank are out of sync, or you've installed the distributor 180* out. i have a feeling, since you checked mechanical timing, that the latter is the culprit. which is odd, because it should take great difficulty to do this, since the ears on the cam are notched so this doesn't happen. did you have a hard time getting the distributor to seat?

 

Yes the distributior was a little difficult going on but I tought they could go on wrong on b series engines? But ill try it out.

 

Ok so I figured it out. I guess my alternator was actually 180 out so that's fixed. But now car revs fine but wont idle. Does the throttle cable have to have a little pressure so that the car idles? On check engine lights are for o2 and oxygen content.

 

Alternator 180 out?

 

??? I'm with this guy.

 

Im sorry I meant distributor. I didn't mean to put alternator lol but any ideas on the idle issue?

 

What exactly are the idle issues? Hunting idle? Low or high?

 

It wont idle at all. If I give it gas it will stay on. Or if I lightly keep my foot on the throttle it will stay on. But once I let off the throttle it just dies.

 

sig worthy......

 

lol.....

 

how about once it warms up? same deal?
have you checked for codes? check regardless of an illuminated MIL

 

Haven't driven it so haven't warmed it up. Its not tunned yet so didn't want to drive it till it was tuned. And my check engine light is on for oxygen content and primary o2 sensor. Should I just put a little tension on the throttle cable so that it idles at 800?

 

There is no such code as "oxygen content".

What are the specific alpha-numeric codes that have been stored? There are several possible codes, not all related.

No, you should adjust the idle properly. Tightening the throttle cable is definitely the wrong thing to do. I don't know whether your engine has an idle-speed screw, or if it relies on an idle-learn sequence, but you must use the method intended for your engine.

Your throttle cable MUST have between 3/8" and 1/2" of free, loose deflection in the exposed cable when you wiggle it with your fingers. It must NOT be tight!

 

There is to a code for "oxygen content" I have codes 1- oxygen content, and 41-o2 heater both of which whole not affect idle. Ill check on the idle screw and mess with it

 

Code 1 is not "oxygen content", it's a crude approximation for "sensor voltage too high or too low, depending on OBD DTC". You're much better off to determine the OBD-II DTCs rather than the MIL-blinks.

Code 41 could mean a couple of different things as well.

Or you could find out how to adjust the idle properly. I don't know the exact procedure for your model, otherwise I'd tell you. The procedure varies slightly with the years.

 

Tuned, what is your set up? I have heard when people install aggressive cams it will need a decent amount of tuning to sustain an idle...... But for some reason I am thinking yours is just a standard B20V setup. Your TPS could be bad as well?

 

No car is not tunned just got it runing with the new motor. And I figured out why it wouldn't idle. I had the iacv and temp sensor on backwards lol idles perfect now. Set up is stock b20 bottom end with stock gsr head. Neukin ac ramhorn garret 57 trim. Tial bov and wastegate. Hopping for 300-350 whp