ITR Potential buyer
Way too much VTEC. The frame being twisted is what you need to look for.
But on a serious note.
Every car is different, look for wear and tear stuff. No matter what car I buy I always do a compression test, pop the valve cover off. jack the car up, take a look underneath.
The interior is pretty easy just look it over make sure all the buttons work, every thing lights up, windows go up and down ok.
When I go look at a car I start it up. Make sure the engine is cold from the start. Crank the car up and let it warm up, dont have the radio on, or have any thing going that could cover up certain sounds.
Make sure the car gets up too operating temp and the fan kicks on. When you drive the car make sure u make left and right turns that lock the wheel to the left and right so you can hear if your axels click or pop.
Check out all your gaskets in the engine. if you see an oil leak trace where its coming from. Some common ones are cam seals, valve cover, oil pan etc etc.
Check to make sure the bushings in the suspension are trashed. aka ball joints broken, torn axel boots, worn endlinks etc etc.
When you drive the car make sure you take it through every gear, and red line it a time or too to make sure it doesn't smoke in VTEC.
Make sure all the body panels match up, all the paint is the same color and shade, run a car fax etc etc.
Hope this helps. Just go over the car with a fine tooth comb.
But on a serious note.
Every car is different, look for wear and tear stuff. No matter what car I buy I always do a compression test, pop the valve cover off. jack the car up, take a look underneath.
The interior is pretty easy just look it over make sure all the buttons work, every thing lights up, windows go up and down ok.
When I go look at a car I start it up. Make sure the engine is cold from the start. Crank the car up and let it warm up, dont have the radio on, or have any thing going that could cover up certain sounds.
Make sure the car gets up too operating temp and the fan kicks on. When you drive the car make sure u make left and right turns that lock the wheel to the left and right so you can hear if your axels click or pop.
Check out all your gaskets in the engine. if you see an oil leak trace where its coming from. Some common ones are cam seals, valve cover, oil pan etc etc.
Check to make sure the bushings in the suspension are trashed. aka ball joints broken, torn axel boots, worn endlinks etc etc.
When you drive the car make sure you take it through every gear, and red line it a time or too to make sure it doesn't smoke in VTEC.
Make sure all the body panels match up, all the paint is the same color and shade, run a car fax etc etc.
Hope this helps. Just go over the car with a fine tooth comb.
i love how 9 out of 10 people discount valve guides even though they are a big part of why seals start leaking.
as for your question. all the above. the casting process honda used on these blocks doing a hot bore means that some tweaked slightly more than others. you also have a high rpm engine which by nature burns oil.
a healthy type r won't have visible smoke in vtec but there may be a minor puff at crossover.
many burn a quart every 1200-1500 miles and the best seem to do a quart every 3000
the black soot on the rear bumper is often a clue to the level of oil burning. the more worn they become the more of it that accumulates
the engine isn't the be-all end-all of the car though. overall condition, the transmission and general body care are a very big deal.
it's been my experience that the nice, clean, lower mile type Rs will cost a guy 12-15k if you want a really nice example. if you spend 9-10k you're going downhill a bit for a couple grand
as for your question. all the above. the casting process honda used on these blocks doing a hot bore means that some tweaked slightly more than others. you also have a high rpm engine which by nature burns oil.
a healthy type r won't have visible smoke in vtec but there may be a minor puff at crossover.
many burn a quart every 1200-1500 miles and the best seem to do a quart every 3000
the black soot on the rear bumper is often a clue to the level of oil burning. the more worn they become the more of it that accumulates
the engine isn't the be-all end-all of the car though. overall condition, the transmission and general body care are a very big deal.
it's been my experience that the nice, clean, lower mile type Rs will cost a guy 12-15k if you want a really nice example. if you spend 9-10k you're going downhill a bit for a couple grand
LOL, right!
You just gotta be care full what you buy. I paid 15k for my R. So I took alot of time bc its a big investment. I did a comp test, leakdown, and I changed the oil and took a sample to have it analyzed (only 25 bucks) Is that a bit much yeah probably but I know my engine is healthy.
Plus it has a Toda head on it, which makes the vtec mmbaaaa that much more.
You just gotta be care full what you buy. I paid 15k for my R. So I took alot of time bc its a big investment. I did a comp test, leakdown, and I changed the oil and took a sample to have it analyzed (only 25 bucks) Is that a bit much yeah probably but I know my engine is healthy.
Plus it has a Toda head on it, which makes the vtec mmbaaaa that much more.
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Do you want your new (used) Type R to be a garage queen, a daily driver, or a modified track monster?
For a garage queen, look for a 1 or 2 owner car
For a daily driver, consider a 3 to 5 owner car
For a track monster, buy a salvaged car and dump $$$ into it.
For a garage queen, look for a 1 or 2 owner car
For a daily driver, consider a 3 to 5 owner car
For a track monster, buy a salvaged car and dump $$$ into it.
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PriMaTe
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Dec 15, 2004 11:47 PM




