Hey all my 98 ek with a 96 gsr swap I have to take the muffler off and go out for a rip to hear how its running since its so quiet.

last night i floored second and heard vtec kick in really loud like it should just under 6k. I did the same pull and the cam didnt switch or sure didnt sound likt it did. no CEL.

now my speedo works, but my last pull through 4th I made it go crazy and jump to zero....then it started working again. but again im not hearing or feeling an engaugement.

everytime I did a pull to hear it the speedo was working fine.

good gas and oil. solenoid ground must be ok or it would show a code (ground is a lil rusty)

I Should hear a loud cross over every single time consistently.

looking for help not sure what to do. I have 3 ecu;s to try but feel the same result

 

Is this another "VTEC just isn't loud as it used to be but it works" threads?

 

Really it's not. Why would the sound be any different? Vtec is deep and clearly heard so when it's not working I know. I should have a consistent cross over every time. It's all about consistency in this game and I really need this performing perfectly before continuing.

My only thought is to rig a vtec light or get tuned but this is my dd beater cheapo car

Maybe someone else has ran into this? No cel = vtec working? Because I have doubts

 

If you can rev to redline and not throw a CEL, VTEC is working.

 

thank you, and thats on a stock obd2a P72. but im still stuck with 1100 idle and cannot get it down. other than that she runs great and i suppose its working. a local track would help

 

Does the CEL work? Have you hooked up a code reader?

 

Have you tried adjusting the idle?

 

cel did not work, I hooked up the wire a few weeks ago. its now out and no problems there. vtec works great with my ecu set to 5400rpm. BUT when the speedo doesnt work it will still redline with no vtec and no cel (weird)

the idle problem is a mystery. i tried 2 different iacv. the tb adjuster is all the way closed (which should almost stall the car normally) the cable even off the tb does nothing its not tightened too tight or anything

my only option are the tps and try another one or the fitv right? I cant do a 2speed emission test without the car idling 900 or less

also for some reason my code reader does not work on this car when I plug it in it searches and cannot configure what car it is or something so i did it manually (flash count)

 

Are you adjusting the idle screw using the correct procedure?

 

What do you mean "when it's set to 5400"? Is this setup modified?

 

^ thats on my chipped computer, which is working well so far.

the p72 I was using had no CEL and it seemed that vtec either kicked at 4600 or 6000. wtf? which had me wondering sometimes

tell me the idle procedure plz, I just did it with the rad cap off

 

Dude! You HAVE to list all this stuff UP FRONT!!! We can't trouble shoot accurately without it.

All of these links are in the FAQ sticky.

• Adjust 96-00 Civic D16Y8 (Manual Transmission) Idle Speed
• Adjust 96-00 Civic D16Y8 (Auto Transmission) or D16Y7 Idle Speed
• Adjust 99-00 Civic B16a2 Idle Speed

 

In order for the ECU to activate VTEC it must see a speed signal. You can't sit in neutral, rev, and pop VTEC. The ECU will only activate VTEC if it knows for certain that the engine is under a proper load. No speed signal= no VTEC.

 

Because 4,600 is the VTEC engagement,

And the 6,000 is the secondaries (IAB's)
The IAB's are usually loader, but????
If you dont get a CEL with the OBD2A ECU, I'm assuming the IAB's are properly wired, and all is working well.
That is unless you have switched to a single plenum manifold.

 

I get it now. So the car is working mint then when I posted the thread it was runnin the p72. But it now running a chipped obd1.

Even when buying the car I was like wtf no vtec? But heard that deep sound up top!

I need it to idle 600+- it's a stock engine it should np

Also itr cams worth swapping in?