Replaced my rear brakes on 95 civic si, no abs, (resurfaced rotors and new pads) about six months ago and noticed it was difficult to get the pads with the caliper on to the disc and bolts on to the left brake but eventually got it on. From the past few months I noticed lines on the outer diameter of the rotor, outside facing away from the vehicle, then it was making intermittent noise like it was coming from the wear indicator, now it is to the point where it is unbearable.
Today I took apart both brakes and switched pads from right to left because right was wearing fine, just to check it. It did not make a difference, I could still hear it and I think it is coming from the right which would mean the pads from the left needs replacing. The pads did look like it was pretty close to the wear indicator. This should be an easy fix.
Now to the rear left brake, pads are stuck to the rotor and I can not turn them by hand though the other three turns at ease. I bleed all four and even messed with the parking brakes and piston.
Rear left brakes are stuck and not sure what to do next.

 

Have you checked the slide pins? Replacing the caliper would be on my list.

 

What pins? The only one I can find is clevis pin and what am I suppose to check on it? Parking brakes cable seems fine, tight when used and loose when not used from the hand brake.

 

he's talking about the pin where the rubber boot is covering. its the pin that holds the caliper onto the bracket where you place the brake pads on... you also are suppose to lube that part or check to make sure its lubed.

 

The "guide pin, or slide pin." It's on the back end of the caliper, holding it the caliper bracket.

Pop the bolts off move the caliper out of the way, and make sure they move freely. Pull them out, clean them up and re lube them. To remove just pull them straight out. When you put them back in don't forget to seat the boot correctly... Also, put them back into the same whole they were removed from.


And that rotor looks trashed.

 

Looks like stuck piston. Try pushing in the piston to see how hard it feels. You could do some cleaning while your at it or you can just buy a new caliper.

 

Are those it? I think they are fine but I will double check. Piston seems fine, including the rubber boot.

 

Yes, those the slide pins.

is the piston totaly bottoming out?

 

im surprised no one has mentioned if he did any work that would require him to have bled his brake lines. he might actually have air in his brake lines and didnt bleed them properly. otherwise he probably needs a new caliper.

 

air would not make it stick. if anything it wouldn't work.

 

I do not think there is anything wrong with the fluid, otherwise it would be opposite from the problem that I have. I usually just replace pads and rotors when I do a brake job. I only bleed brakes if I am troubleshooting or if it looks like coffee. Yeah, I think it is better to have clear brake fluid but it was obvious the pads need replacing.
I could turn the piston in more if I wanted to but it will twist the rubber boot on it. I did turn it as far as I can but once it starts twisting, I would stop.
I checked all four pins, left and right brakes. The top pin of the left side is seized, I think. Could not get it to move at all. Probably happened six months ago when I tried to force my way in, trying to tighten the bolt that goes into the pin. All I need to do is pull it out? In a perfect world, it should just slide out, no threads to turn? Just making sure, I do not want to break anything.

 

The pin should simply pull right out. all they do is slide in and out. lol

A frozen pin could almost surely cause issues.