B18B BASE VS B20 BASE... BOTH STOCK
does anyone know the diffrence between the b18b/a and b20b/z and in the ecu maps


these r the stock fuel, ignition, and injector cycle...
now let me get this straight b20s run a bit more rich due to higher bore? the point of this thread is my friend has a b18b1 civic bone stock and it has a chipped ecu that makes the car run weird... for the car ot run good withough backfire it needs to have the distributor advanced all the way! when this is in the middle it tends to jump around from like 750 to 950 rpms and runs like it is struggling to stay on. all the sensors that would cause idle to be messed up is either new or working properly.. i plugged in my gsr ecu the idle was fine but now it ran rich due to gsr ecu... i kinda wanna c if there is anything that someone can think of from the top of there head to fix a rough idle and the timing advance problems.... the car is perfectly timed we checked it 4 times with the timing gun and the marks on the head/block other then that it runs perfectly fine!
i got the base maps here for stock ls and b20
http://www.xenocron.com/bins/index.p...Crome/B-Series


these r the stock fuel, ignition, and injector cycle...
now let me get this straight b20s run a bit more rich due to higher bore? the point of this thread is my friend has a b18b1 civic bone stock and it has a chipped ecu that makes the car run weird... for the car ot run good withough backfire it needs to have the distributor advanced all the way! when this is in the middle it tends to jump around from like 750 to 950 rpms and runs like it is struggling to stay on. all the sensors that would cause idle to be messed up is either new or working properly.. i plugged in my gsr ecu the idle was fine but now it ran rich due to gsr ecu... i kinda wanna c if there is anything that someone can think of from the top of there head to fix a rough idle and the timing advance problems.... the car is perfectly timed we checked it 4 times with the timing gun and the marks on the head/block other then that it runs perfectly fine!
i got the base maps here for stock ls and b20
http://www.xenocron.com/bins/index.p...Crome/B-Series
im assuming you use a timing gun to check timing not just rotating the dizzy and assuming that its proper timing...
b20 is a 2 liter engine so obviously it will need more fuel and it is low end torque motor even more so than LS motor so the fuel maps are different
have you checked your TPS sensor output make sure it is calibrated properly
checked your IACV to make sure its not clogged
and checked your FITV to make sure its not clogged or loose
what ecu is he using? and why not switch to stock maps by desoldering the jumper
is there a solid CEL when the car is on?
is your O2 sensor good or is it on its way out and sending wrong voltage to ecu?
b20 is a 2 liter engine so obviously it will need more fuel and it is low end torque motor even more so than LS motor so the fuel maps are different
have you checked your TPS sensor output make sure it is calibrated properly
checked your IACV to make sure its not clogged
and checked your FITV to make sure its not clogged or loose
what ecu is he using? and why not switch to stock maps by desoldering the jumper
is there a solid CEL when the car is on?
is your O2 sensor good or is it on its way out and sending wrong voltage to ecu?
I used a stock LS map on my high comp b20. Had to tweak the fuel no more than 10% in a few spots to hit my targets. Timing is a little conservative and I had to lean it out quite a bit post start and at low ect's. Otherwise if everything is straight mechanically and electrically you should be pretty damn close. More details on your setup?
Last edited by spAdam; Jun 16, 2012 at 07:51 AM.
This thread is invalid as you need to tune for your specific motor. Basemaps are to get you to a tuner or start point for you to tune. Start dialing your car in and make it safe or rent a dyno.
Doesn't mean we can't help the guy get the car running.
But, re-reading this ( I was on my phone at work last night), if you're buddy's LS motor is bone stock, why is he running a chip? You really need to start with a stock LS map.
And I'm not sure what any of this has to do with a b20 map...
But, re-reading this ( I was on my phone at work last night), if you're buddy's LS motor is bone stock, why is he running a chip? You really need to start with a stock LS map.
And I'm not sure what any of this has to do with a b20 map...
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Gotcha. No need to get fired up. I didn't do any work for the OP though, I did ask him to bring more o the table and tell us more about the setup.
No matter, OP appears to have gone MIA on his own thread.
No matter, OP appears to have gone MIA on his own thread.
LOL i dont take the internet seriously. I am all for helping (hence why i post) to be safe pull 2 degrees out of the low and high cam ignition tables. proceed to tune car. I can provide OP plenty of beginner how too's but the variance in the maps will not matter after tuning it for the motor in question.
If there is a mechanical issue it needs addressed before any tuning is need. also there are plenty of pre tuning checklist that i too can link if needed.
If there is a mechanical issue it needs addressed before any tuning is need. also there are plenty of pre tuning checklist that i too can link if needed.
well the reason i was wondering the difference is he has a weird setup the exhaust cam is PH4 thats b20 and intake is pr4 LS... it it runs very rich... the car runs with a stock ls ecu but **** terrible we've tried like 10 ecu none have check engine lights, the motor doesn't have a fast idle... tps is brand new same with iac. i though maybe the only solution was to have a chipped ecu and tune it witch runs alot better now after a 350$ tune LMAO... we found out the motor was built.. cuz a stock ls doesn't make 143WHP 129wtq that's like almost the actual rating with is only a rating... its fixed now.. the tuner said the car was running rich because of a faulty fpr. and the timing was .2 degree off on the exhaust side due to in proper installation! so he put adjustable cam gears on it. he also said the compression was a bit high for ls territory 190 190 192 191. oh and sorry for the late reply's ppl thanks for all the suggestions!
did anyone see the fuel/ignition maps for the high cam on these maps?!?!?!?
i was about to try and use this b20 map. they cant be right. im no pro at tuning but it just definitely seems off. can someone please confirm this or help me find a b20z basemap so i dont blow up my motor
i was about to try and use this b20 map. they cant be right. im no pro at tuning but it just definitely seems off. can someone please confirm this or help me find a b20z basemap so i dont blow up my motor
you dont have hi cam lol its non vtec remember
this doesnt show ignition maps also which you need
treyb20.bin filename as i used my deduction skills for crossinterpolate the datarefferencecharts with xenocron it appears theres a stock b20 map on their bin repository.
heres the link
http://www.xenocron.com/bins/index.p...Crome/B-Series
this is for ghost hatch
this doesnt show ignition maps also which you need
treyb20.bin filename as i used my deduction skills for crossinterpolate the datarefferencecharts with xenocron it appears theres a stock b20 map on their bin repository.
heres the link
http://www.xenocron.com/bins/index.p...Crome/B-Series
this is for ghost hatch
thats where i pulled that calibration from. thats the "stock b20". bring the convo back to my thread hahaha. so wait... is treyb20.bin a no go??? the b20nonvtec map that hondata provides from smanager 2.1.5 beta is totally different than treys map
well the motor has a ph4 cams witch r aparently b20... also this car runs like poop with a p75. he finnaly said screw it and he got it tuned by a local dyno place... surprisingly for some reason he made 140whp 120tq anyways turns out it had b16 pistons as well
Pr4 run better low CR motors cuz they have wey more timing.
B20 run bad at Idle on B18 ECU cuz of the fuel value line 1000rpm -21 depress.
But will need more gaz top end if the B20 have headers and exhaust line.
Im running B16a Non Vtec Pr4 head and my fuel value is 72% 7000rpm .9 depress.
I have around 150Whp
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/b16a-non-vtec-p-75-winter-beater-2821510/
Dont look at the timing map in that time. i was wrong. to hight past 5K rpm
Its now at 25 degre 7000rpm
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