So basically over the past year i have been learning to use hondata s300 and been researching all there is to turbos, ignition, spark plugs, you name it. I didn't just spend a **** load of money just to blow it up within the first week and i also didn't pay hundreds of dollars for some software(s300) to have it tuned by a "professional" for another extra 200 to 350 dollars per dyno session!!!! that's insane guys!!! unless of course your all ballin but then again if you are then why did you get a little honda instead of a corvette or something with real potential. And for some reason too, not one dyno tuner ever really tunes your car 100 percent even after stealing 350 dollars from you. They will tune your full throttle part but once you go driving on freeway or cruising on the street say bye bye to perfect 14.7 air fuel ratio and gas mileage, and prepare for deadspots around the fuel map, and please dont let me get started on the intake, engine coolant temperature, and injector deadtimes compensation tables. AND they always leave your closed loop operation and 02 sensor off which is bullshit. theres a reason honda and the world made o2 sensors!!!.

sorry for showing my frustration lol but had i actually taken the time and read about turbos earlier and how s300 works then i wouldnt have let so many "tuners" and "shops" steal my money.

so now back to the whole point of this thread lol

b18b1 turbo
walboro 255
stock fpr (fuel pressure gauge showing 42 idle psi0
ac autotechnic fuel rail
RC 750cc injectors
t3 t4 Cx racing(ebay) 54 trim
2 1/2 charge piping
New Godspeed 3x11x30 intercooler
hks bov ssqv
stock ports on head
stock ls cams regrinded at machine shop
skunk2 intake manifold
stock throttle body
EBAY cast log manifold
custom dumptube pointing away from turbo
turbo blanket(made it spool 500 rpm earlier)
hondata 4 bar map sensor
8.7 compression pistons with 1.8l stock bore (sleeved)
full 3 inch exhaust including downpipe (no cat)
15 psi-16 psi depending on temperature
ngk v power "8" spark plugs gapped at .24 with blue ngk wires/ autozone dizzy
AEM UEGO wideband gauge and tru boost controller
GSR transmission
Chevron 91 octane

the first pull was without my custom short ram intake that i made for my turbo so that my oil wouldn't get so dirty so dam quick!!!

the second pull which represents the red line shows the second pull WITH my air filter and actually created more midrange horsepower and higher peak by just 1whp on top end lol plus protection from rocks and dirt

-Both tests were done on a dynojet dyno that supposedly reads slightly lower than other .

-had i revved to 7000 rpm i would have for sure made a couple more horsepower on the second pull

-15 psi

blue: 298whp/247trq at 7000rpm

red: 299whp/249trq at 6700rpm

-outside temperature was 91 degrees farenheit for both runs

 

According to the tuner who was watching me do my baseline pulls, he said that with a equal length manifold i should easily squeeze out an extra 20 to 30whp at same boost levels and with more timing maybe another 10whp. For doing my own tuning i 'm actually really really satisfied and reached my goal of making 300whp at 6700 rpm and 250 torque at 6000rpm without having to rev higher and going with a million dollar turbo and manifold.

future mods in order:
-legit ram horn manifold

-replace my chinese turbo with ball bearing t3 t4

-65mm throttle body( to be honest i might never buy this part since most throttle bodies are really expensive and probably only make like 3 more horsepower lol, and srt 4 neons and even hondas have made well over 500whp with the stock 60mm tb.)

 

It looks like the intake tubing is sitting on the dump tube. is it just the pic? if its sitting on the dumptube you will be pre-heating the air before it even gets into the turbo.

 

Nice work.

Def. cool that you figured out hondata and tuned it yourself.

You have everything you need right now to make 400whp even with the log and ebay turbo, so why dont you crank up the boost and see what she can do?

A legit turbo and manifold will get you a nice +400 whp set up though for sure, you just have to turn up the boost : )

Your limit will only be your 91 octane gas, is there E85 in your area?

If there is and you run E85, with a new turbo and manifold and bigger injectors you might even see 500 whp, but that LS head will probably stop that from happening.

Easy 450 whp car though if you want it to be..

 

Not with that turbo on a LS even with race gas 450whp isnt happening. and i assume He means 57 Trim vs. 54. With a Vtec head it would be more possible

Either way tho nice streetable numbers. Should keep you happy for awhile, but you will want more thats for sure. It would be nice to see how the ebay turbo holds up so keep us updated

 

Nice work, you got good results for ebay junk and tuning it yourself. I tuned my 1992 Mustang myself and got 470RWHP and it was very rewarding.

 

Good numbers... Looks almost EXACTLY like my old dyno



Sounds like youve had a bit of trouble finding a decent tuner... Any reputable tuner should take the car on the street and tune your entire map. Thats what youre paying for, not just the WOT columns. I would be unsatisfied with them if that were to happen to me. I tuned my car, so I was able to take my time and hit most of the cells. It drove nearly like a regular turbo VW or Audi... I actually GAINED MPG after I was done tuning. I was getting 33-34mpg highway with the above setup.

FYI, the only way that i would not tune a car to completetion is if it wasnt fit to be on the road IE: drycracking tires, loose suspension, bad alignment, fluid leaks, etc... Is that your case??

 

Theres a half inch gap between the intake piping and the dumptube. and i also added high temp ceramic coating and then heat wrapped on top

 

over the past 3 and a half years i have only bought 2 of these turbos(this one being my second one) and the reason why i think i messed up my first one was due to the near stock piping which restricted the crap out of it and i never used a filter on it and it would get dirty so fast. this second turbo which im still using has lasted me about 2 years and at least 10 oil changes(10-40 castrol conventional oil) and i do those every 3000 miles and thats if i even remember and i have boosted up to 22 psi when i go to the track. o and i always remember to let the car cool down for at least 30 sec before i shut it off

o and i actually took my first turbo apart which is the same one im using now and the specs werent 57 trim but 54 trim!!! if you got a ebay turbo, chances are the specs arent exactly what you were told on paper.

 

yo bro did you feel any difference in the 70mm throttle body and was it really worth it or should i just put that money elsewhere

 

You didn't read my post very well, those were separate statements.

I said he could make 400 whp with what he has now. And if the boost was cranked up, it was tuned a little more aggressively, and he reved it higher than 6800 rpm, I'm sure it could. He has a built bottom end and reground came, edging to atleast 7500 should be fine.

And my statement about 450 whp was with a legit turbo and a tubular manifold.

 

yea this guy sounds about right. my block was built to rev to 7500rpm and car was tuned myself and this is the first car i ever tune and i have been told my timing was on the low side.

while breaking in my engine on the dyno it made 124whp lol and with 15 psi it makes 300 so lets say every psi is about 10whp so if i rev to 7500rpm and boost 22 psi with a tubular manifold and some methanol or better fuel i should easily make 400

Whats my limit on 91 octane, here in california

 

Yea i did misread that a bit....but i still dont see him making 400whp with that turbo on a ls. id say a solid 350 maybe little higher. youre getting ineffecient after 20psi and he isnt going to gain 100whp with a additional 5psi. not close

 

what about with a fancy equal length, raising redline by 800 rpm at 7500, 22 psi, and 50shot of nitrous to build 22 psi at 5500k

 

I feel that stepping up to a 70mm TB and portmatch made me hold torque longer and ultimately, more peak HP. Take a look at our graphs... mine holds torque a bit better after 6500rpm. I have a feeling that I could have revved this engine a bit higher due to the way the torque is still fairly level and HP is still climbing at 7000.

 

cool, thats what i wanted to hear. torque is where all the real fun is at haha

 

Your turbo blanket really helped that much? I just bought and installed one on my setup. Haven't really had time to legitimately note any differences but it seems to spool a bit sooner.

 

reving any higher wont result in any more power...in fact i wouldnt rev it any higher than you are now...just a guess those regrinds probably arent helping you

 

sounds like you got a hold of some crappy tuners.

 

 

how long have you been running this setup? i always see of people making this kind of power on a stock block, but never hear of them lasting long

and to OP...nice build/setup....really shows shows the importance of doing your research

 

You wont "easily" make 400 on that turbo. Not on stock cams either.

 

Agreed!

 

Sounds like you have a pretty good setup. I have about the same set up but with Crower 403 cams/v.springs & retainers. And im made 320whp with 265wtq on 16psi (t3/t4 garret). I just want to comment on what you said about Tuners not tuning your car properly for the streets. I had my car tuned by John Vega(pherable) and how he tuned my car was first on the dyno and then went after for a street tune. After about 4hours of tuning, my car ran amazing, no idling issues, bogging, etc.. It seems like the car was a night and day difference. What im trying to say is, it depends on who you take your car to get tuned from. Take it to reputable tuners and you should be fine.

 

I have dished out $40,000 for my dynojet. Whether the tuner sucks or not, he is just trying to make his investment back. I dont agree with him doing a crappy job but it upsets me when you say "200-350 is outrages and hes stealing your money" it makes me feel like you are talking to all tuners in general because of the "$2-300" fee for our $40,000 (or more) investment