Just re-assembling my front end. I am using new upper control arms and new stabilizer endlinks and I am unsure how much to tighten them respectively.

For the upper control arms, there are 2 pivots on each, with a bolt and nut going through each pivot. I could probably tighten the nut hard enough to bend the metal and clamp onto each pivot and lock it inplace. But I dont think your supposed to do that, is there a tightness spec for it?



For the stabilizer end links, they are new beck/arnley units, just plain metal cups and rubber bushings. Again I could probably tighten the nut so hard that the rubber bushings squished to nothing. Is there a tightness spec for these or simply when it feels like all bushings are "solid"??



Thanks for the help guys!

 

bump

 

Loosen those end links they are tooo tight. there should be about 1/8 inch of threads sticking out. As for the upper control arm there is a torque spec for that.

 

For the stabilizers, you are installed up side down . The nut should be on the top .

 

You know this because you know for a fact that every manufacturer uses the same length bolt in their end link kit?


You want the end links tight enough that there is no slop, the bushings may get a squished a bit, but you don't have to go nuts with it. They look fine to me.

 

I know this because common sense and the 10-15 end links ive done have all been the same.

 

10-15, oh, I wasn't aware you were a professional.

His look fine.

 

Tighten the control arm nuts to about 50lbs (IIRC). But jack up the suspension first so you tighten them at about ride height. Always tighten pivoting bushings at ride height.

As far as the stabilizer link...I think I remember about a 30lb spec.

 

Lucky. My stuff is all rusted and broken.

 

No ****ing way Id get any tools in there with the suspension jacked up to ride height.

I tightenned them with the suspension drooped. Will this affect anything?

 

Like how you see it in my first pic is exactly where I tightenned it. That suspension level.

WIll that overclock and ruin my bushing? I havent driven the car yet, but I still dont see how any tools would fit up in there to tighten it with me being lowerred 2", just no room in there at all from what Im seeing.

Hoping how I did it, is fine

 

its a general rule but, thats not how torque is measured.

the sway bar link itself is upside down. its gonna be eaiser to install with if you can compress the suspension

 

I agree there is a torque spec for both but I have yet to torque a end link. To me it works and will continue to, but to some its completely wrong. Either way its up to the OP to decide what he wants to do.

 

You don't want to tighten it with the suspension dropped, otherwise when you lower the car down, the bushing will always be twisting, and it will wear out fast. What you can do is see what angle the upper A arm is it when the car is on the ground. Make a mental note. Raise the car up, release the upper ball joint so that the A arm is free. Then you can position the A arm in the exact location it should be when the car is on the ground. Tighten the two bolts on either bushing, then reattach the ball joint.

 

This.

I don't recall ever torquing an end link.



It also doesn't matter if it's "upside down". Does it really make a difference if the nut is on the top or bottom? No, it does not.

 

The bushings will tear.

For DC/92-95 Civic upper arms, I tighten the bolts while the arm is out of the car. It looks like 88-91 arms are a similar design. I just kinda guestimate the angle the arm will be at ride height and tighten the bolts. Then I install the arm. It's a bit of a struggle to install...but leaving the 2 top nuts loose till you get the ball joint started helps.