So I'm putting in the tried and true Koni GC suspension setup in a couple weeks and I've got the extended top hats which the stock front tower bar doesn't clear.

My questions are: which aftermarket front tower bar is the best in terms of stiffness (I really want a Carbing Type I because it's welded but I don't even know if they made that for the Integra and Carbing stuff is rare)? And is it worth getting a rear tower bar as well since I'll need to take those rear plastic covers off anyway and I'll be "in there so might as well do everything"?

 

carbing is expensive as hell. Tein USA carrys them, dont know if they still do tho. price range is around 4-500. If you can't justify spending that much, look into passwordJDM. they are still 3 point strut bars. Makes sense to do the rears as well.

 

I don't want a 3 point because I don't want to drill holes in the firewall.

 

Just throw some washers or another nut in there to space it up a little, that's all I did.

The bar does nothing more than make the engine bay look pretty....

 

I always thought the Neuspeed bars actually did the most out of the FSB's.

Way back in the mid/late 90's when I had my GSR, I tested the OEM bar Vs. a Mugen bar Vs the Neuspeed and out of all 3, the Neuspeed made the most difference (seat-of-the-pants). Turn-in was much improved. Had a friend drive the car as well and he thought the same. It was actually a blind test for him, so I trust his judgement.

Now, this was on the flexible-flyer that was the GSR. With an ITR, it is significantly beefed up so the results won't be a great.

If you're on "mild" springrates and not running R-comps, I doubt a FSB will make much of a difference. Might as well stick with OEM if you can.

I actually have the OEM accessory ITR RSB. Mainly, because it looks pretty I have no idea if it is actually doing anything, though.

 

The OEM rear strut bar is worthless. I dig the look though. The mounting brackets are super weak. If anything I like the mugen one sense it's a flat design.

 

Agreed, but you gotta cut the plastic!

 

I have a Benen year on my PY, strait bar across and solid but hate the cut out rears

On my other I have carbing 3 point with a CTR(same design as gsr) and tight fit but works. password JDM 3point or 2 point is replica and will work.

3 point is PITA to mount though, sure same process for 2 point though

 

Do you have to cut the plastic on either the TEIN or PW:JDM one?

TEIN (top):



PW:JDM:



Also, the PW:JDM front tower bar:



is the same price as the TEIN one (2nd one in the TEIN pic above.) Which one would be "more worth it"/which one is stiffer?

 

Any rear bar that is straight across will force the plastic to be cut.

And quite honestly, unless you are running large R-comps and stiff springs in the rear, a rear STB is quite worthless in an ITR. Even then, I'm not sure it would matter.

I got the OEM bar for looks, and that's about it. If it does anything I'd be absolutely shocked.

 

So what about the front bar then? PW:JDM or TEIN (I'm definitely getting one.)

 

depends on how much you willing to spend, and which "look" you like better.
I am sure they both work.

 

Money best spent elsewhere but IMO they do provide more rigidity to the strut towers which see the most force on the car and have a large gap between the 2 which is where flex would be seen. Let's put it this way, there's a reason the cars came with bracing that bolts on. Look at many high end super cars they also use strut tower bracing. Again they are more of a last mod I have nothing else to spend my money on because the difference isn't substantial and rarely felt. I noticed more stable turn in with them on, but nothing to go write home about saying wow this is incredible.

 

What are your thoughts on the rear miracle X bar.

 

Unnecessary added weight. Not sure why anything past the towers would need bracing.

 

I had the same problem..What you need to do is if your buying them directly from ground control they will machine down the front top hats a bit so it will clear the factory itr strut bar. Then if you have to you can use some washers to space up the strut bar some more too. FYI it is better to order them directly from ground control because if you dont know what spring rate to get you can tell them what your plaining on doing with the car and they will recommend the correct spring rate.

 

I already have the suspension in my possession.

 

Late chime in but whatever.

I have a Cusco Type OS on my Integra, had to change the nut to a shorter one, but clears just fine. It's a regular M10 nut (fits in a 17mm socket). You can get them from Home Depot was less than $1 for the 2 that I needed for my bar. You can see in the pics.

No cuttting, or notching.

Hope this helps someone out.

 

This probably doesn't apply to road racing but I know in drag racing the strut towers will flex under load. Seen multiple cracks in metal from it. So for what it's worth that's my opinion

 

i had the extended top hats on my ITR before. Just create a spacer, you only need about 3-4mm then put the bar on top of that to clear. I have the spoon front bar and I know that clears, the ITR one clears with spacer.

 

Steer clear of 3pt units on street driven cars. 2pt Carbing units were made for DC2's but are silly expensive these days. These pieces aren't magic makers, half the time my car isn't even running a front strut bar. Just get a standard economical unit that isn't bling and call it a day.

 

I actually went out and bought a Spoon bar. Love it

 

I would recommend the Ultra Racing 3p bar. I noticed a really!! big difference compared to the stock ITR bar in terms of steering feel, brake feel and ride comfort. The bar itself is cheap, strong, light and the welds look nice.
You don't need to drill additional holes, but you need to relocate your EVAP purge valve (not hard to do at all). Rear 2p bar made a little difference for me, but by far not as big a difference as the front 3p bar.