alright so i bought a 91 ef with a ls vtec swap about 3 months ago. caqr ran good for about the first month until i had dizzy problems. got that all sorted out and then soon after i noticed the car starting to consume oil. about a quart a week with no smoke just a bit of a burning smell past 7.5k. the car already has a s2 intake mani so i bought a s2 70mm throttle body. when i took the old one off i noticed quite a bit of oil in the intake tube, in the tb and down the intake mani. waht could cause that??? also the tb did not work, made the car idle like it had a miss. the old tb had 2 vacuum lines hooked up to it. one went to a sensor on the firewall which i beleive is the MAP. the other goes to the charcoal cannister which isnt hooked up to anything. coolant lines were bypassed.
so the new tb is a s2 alpha series which has coolant lines, ONE vacuum line on the top and a top mount for a MAP sensor. im wondering if its the wrong tb can anyone give some thoughts?

92 ls bottem end
89b16 head
lots of bolt ons

sorry about the long post but im getting very frustrated with the car.

 

Let me guess- you can't help but rag the f*ck out of it every time you accelerate. Going to the red line once-in-a-while is ok but, not all the time. Counter to what a lot of people say Honda engines aren't bulletproof. It's just a machine and will wear out the more you push it- especially being a 20 year old engine.

That being said you probably burnt the rings, valve seals/guides, headgasket, etc.

 

start with the basics. have you changed your pcv valve lately? tune up? crawl under the car inspect for leaks. you're not going to gain any more power from a larger tb with out a re tune

 

i have another PR3 ecu that was tuned on another car with the 70mm tb intake mani high volume fuel rail etc...my ecu right now is chipped but im not sure for what upgrades. as for beating the **** out of it no i don`t...the car is my dd. the car sat for the winter so im thinking the pcv valve may be gummed up. did a full tuneup about a month ago...plugs wires, cap and rotar as well because is has an msd setup. they are known for the rotar coming loose and chewing the cap...which happened. and if i burnt a ring, valve seal or anything like that it would be smoking and not building proper compression. CR is consistent withing 20psi across all 4 cylinders