ive been thinking about buying the KTeller/VRS 3" tubing kit, but cant make up my mind on which muffler/resonator to use. i LOVED the sound of my old Tanabe SMH but they wont sell me a muffler separately. i currently have a Thermal R&D 60mm exhaust on it now and its stupid loud. previous owner of the exhaust had it on a turbo car for some time and i think its just worn out.

im looking for suggestions/setups. plan on using a resonator and one muffler. i need flow, i dont mind noise, i just don't want rasp.

 

Build your own. I added 3 resonators and a fart can to finally get it to sound/drive how I wanted it; even then it would **** off the wife and wake up the neighbors... That was with a decently "built" 12:1 N/A GSR. No sound clips, but it did sound better than anything I have ever heard. (I have also had a Tanabe Super Medallion exhaust - I loved that setup.)

 

dont do 3" man. but rather only go up to a max of 2.5". on my old rex i had a DC sports 4-2-1 header to 2.5" custom pipping, magnaflow muffler and magnaflow catty, it was raspy till i put in a resonator, it sounded amazing. there was still a lil rasp but only above 5.5k RPM.
the sound was deep and did not sound like a fart can at all. had alot of great comments on it.

 

i wouldn't do 3 inch on an n/a car you will lose all of your low end power and let's face it we drive cars with no low end anyways

 

well while building this jalopy my goal was to make 200whp. i barely broke 182hp, with 125tq. granted, thats with a short POS 2.5" intake elbow and dirty K&N, exiting a 2.5" hytech replica to a 2.5" test pipe and this worn out Thermal R&D exhaust.

the (highly regarded)tuner suggested a much better intake and 3" exhaust.

the build is as follows:

JDM GSR short block
JDM or USDM(i dont remember) B16 pistons
total head/block mill 0.020"
estimated 12:1CR static

JDM GSR P72 head
"performance" valve job lol
Skunk2 Tuner 2 cams, S2 gears, S2 springs, S2 retainers
Skunk2 v.2 Intake Manifold(TB matched), S2 65mm TB
Hondata Thermal IM Gasket
Prelude 345cc injectors
Hytech replica tri-y, 2.5" collector
2.5" test pipe
60mm Thermal R&D exhaust

YS1 trans
hydro GSR gearset
stock clutch
Toda 9lb flywheel

the motor is built, its not coming apart unless i decide to pull the GSR block for an LS unit and turbo it. also, im trying to limit myself to one retune due to cost and amount of time it takes to drive there and back(its 200 miles away)

i know the intake is crap and that i could pick up a few whp there. its literally an 8" long 2.5" diameter elbow with a dirty K&N on the end that i found in the trunk of a car i bought. i intend to replace it with a proper 3" short ram, velocity stack, and 6" ID K&N. i might pick up a couple whp with a CTR N1 crank pulley, but not sure the potential risk is worth the reward. that leaves me with exhaust. im sure theres something to be gained by AT LEAST matching the 2.5" diameter of the header collector and test pipe.

can anybody show me a dyno of a honda losing tq with a bigger exhaust?

or suggest a 2.5" setup?

 

I would stick with 3" simply because you'll probably end up boosting down the road anyways. No better way to quiet the car down than some pressure.

 

i have 3in on my k-rx, my collector off my header is 2.5" so i have a 2.5" magnaflow cat and run 3" cat back to flowmaster muffler sounds like a beast! i dont no anything about KTeller or VRS 3" tubing kit, i just used regular 3" the shop that built to sold

 

http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how...pipe-diameter/

Check this link....3inch is going to be too big for an N/A car.

 

No, 3" isn't too big for a built N/A engine. Once you actually build an engine you will see why. Built doesn't mean an intake, header, camshafts, and exhaust either.

 

i read the article, and it makes good sense, but those figures are assuming its straight through(no mufflers, cat, resonator), and literally straight(no bends) pipe. it also makes no mention of the length of the tubing.

lest we forget that the EF chassis has one 100 degree bend in the header, three 90 degree bends before the muffler, and, in my case, would have two 90 degree dumps after the muffler. also, the 2.5" collector on the header is going to be the smallest part of the exhaust.

im starting to think the reason people go with a 3" exhaust on NA cars is to allow for proper flow but to utilize a longer muffler/resonator combo to keep the noise down

[edit]: also, using that graph, the limit of 2.5" pipe is 232hp in their scenario. if you take 232 and take away 15% for drive-train loss, you get 197. i guess according to their scale 2.75" would be ideal for this application.

again, these numbers are completely dependent on the accuracy of that scale, which, again, makes no mention of the length of pipe, number or degree of bends, mufflers, resonators, catalytic converters, etc.