Door Dents and Creases. Sand down to bare metal for filler?
I am going to give my Crx a cheap paintjob and I need to start the body work. The car has little dents and imperfections in alot of places, and a moderate dent in the front fender and a slight rub crease on the passenger rear fender arch.
I picked up a gallon of Evercoat Rage extreme and want to fill and shape these areas back to as flat as possible and work the fender and rear quarter crease back to shape.
Mu question is do I only need to scuff the oem paint/clear and remove the gloss with say 100 grit before applying the evercoat filler, or should I sand the entire low spot area down to bare metal and fill over the bare metal?
Im only going to be applying an aerosol automotive primer over the filled areas as I wont be giving the car paint until mid summer but now is the only time I have to do body work where I live
Thanks
I picked up a gallon of Evercoat Rage extreme and want to fill and shape these areas back to as flat as possible and work the fender and rear quarter crease back to shape.
Mu question is do I only need to scuff the oem paint/clear and remove the gloss with say 100 grit before applying the evercoat filler, or should I sand the entire low spot area down to bare metal and fill over the bare metal?
Im only going to be applying an aerosol automotive primer over the filled areas as I wont be giving the car paint until mid summer but now is the only time I have to do body work where I live
Thanks
go to the wreckers and get a good front fender, yeah just sand down to bare metal and feather the paint edge. I sugest fixing the dents, filling large dents will just be trouble
the car is a JDM ef7 with oem side markers Id prefer not to have to cut holes in USDM fenders. Im just curious if I need to simply sand the paint with 100 to get rid of the gloss and then apply filler, or if I need to sand down to bare metal, and if a 60grit or 220 grit sand before filler would allow better adhesion
Even for the smaller dents and door dings I should sand the area right down to bare metal?
I was just reding your build/paint thread buildateg, and it was nice work, so your opinion means alot to me thanks
I was just reding your build/paint thread buildateg, and it was nice work, so your opinion means alot to me thanks
thanks,means alot
So pretty much if you get filler on a painted surface and it dries it will chip off with no effort at all....get filler on a metal surface and the bond is crazy strong (as it should be). so yes, even the little dings sand to the metal,fill,sand filler,prime.

So pretty much if you get filler on a painted surface and it dries it will chip off with no effort at all....get filler on a metal surface and the bond is crazy strong (as it should be). so yes, even the little dings sand to the metal,fill,sand filler,prime.
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This will help 
Nothing wrong with putting filler on factory paint that has been scuffed up good.
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/...th-a-spray-gun

Nothing wrong with putting filler on factory paint that has been scuffed up good.
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/...th-a-spray-gun
Use a good spray aerosol primer.
3M will be perfect.
You MUST seal the primed areas with paint.
Use aerosol close as possible to the colour you are going to use and give the primed areas 2-3 coats after you did the prep work on the primer to apply the paint.
3M will be perfect.
You MUST seal the primed areas with paint.
Use aerosol close as possible to the colour you are going to use and give the primed areas 2-3 coats after you did the prep work on the primer to apply the paint.
So Im quite unsure if I will benefit from sanding down to bare metal around my dents and dings
I also need to buy/make some sanding blocks
Anyone have any info on sanding blocks? Most of my work will be on the rear quarters which arent flat
I also need to buy/make some sanding blocks
Anyone have any info on sanding blocks? Most of my work will be on the rear quarters which arent flat
Also do not forget the back sanding before priming.
Get a speed file of around 30cm and a rubber block of around 15cm.
Have a look at some youtube videos to get an idea of how to sand filler correctly.
Rough out with P80 and then P120 and then P220.
It will be wise to prime and then after it has cured wet sand with P400 and a block and then prime again.
The link I have posted you is a good guideline and that is how I do my work.
You need to sand way beyond the area that is going to get primed with some P600. I usually mark the place that needs to get filler and the wash and wet sand the whole panel. And the do the filler work.
You are going to get nasty lines under the paint where the primer was applied if you did not do proper back sanding.
You are going to get nasty lines under the paint where the primer was applied if you did not do proper back sanding.
Ya I was originally thinking I was going to replace the fender but my car is jdm so a jdm replacement would be super expensive or I buy USDM and cut my owm marker hole
I fugre its just best since my fender isnt TO bad that I repair it, but its got 2 nice 1/2" deep dents, just hope I can form and find the oem honda shape again
I fugre its just best since my fender isnt TO bad that I repair it, but its got 2 nice 1/2" deep dents, just hope I can form and find the oem honda shape again
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efficiencyJunkie
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Oct 6, 2007 06:50 AM




