AEM 1040+ OEM dizzy=no start but autozone junk dizzy will run it just break up????
Let me start by saying this has been a very long week of late, sleepless nights trying to get this car figured out so please forgive me if I leave any details out.
Here's the situation. I'm trying to help A good friend get his car running. He has the following: 93 Cx hatch, pistons and rods LS, leakboost top mount, GT30R, full leakboost kit, Id1000s, walbro255, AEM EMS, GM 3 bar.... I think thats it.
We threw it all together one night last week, loaded a base tune and adjusted it for all the correct sensors, etc. touched some finishing details up the next day and headed for a tune friday at a local well known tuner. Swapped plugs and strapped it on the dyno. After some loading and adjusting the tuner went to make a pull. This is when it got bad, Anything over 5k and the car was hitting what sounded like anti lag. We determined the distributor was faulty (autozone junk). Took the car back home and found another new distributor. Installed it and re-checked everything. Now with the tuner's basemap and some amatuer tuning I was able to get a nice clean pull to 6250 when it hit a brick wall. Fuel is ok (11.5ish the whole way) It just feels like it looses spark.
At this point I'm frusterated, Started doing some reading online and found that AEM doesn't like aftermarket distributors as they will cause synch loss. We went and found a known good completely OEM GSR distributor threw it on and the damn thing won't even start, Ok, so maybe it wasn't good.... GGRRRRRr. Went and pulled another OEM Ls distributor that was just pulled from a running car... same damn thing. So we figured ok, try one last time, met up with another local who claims to have another verified good OEM distributor. Threw it on and it STARTED!!!!! After a short test drive we found the same "fuel cut" sensation at 6250 again. F%$^!! After disecting the last distributor it was found to be after market.
This leads me to wonder why:
Genuine HONDA OEM distributor = No start, no spark
Aftermarket junk distributors = Start and drive fine but will cut out at 6250/10psi
I'm lost, does anyone have any ideas we can try? if you need anymore info feel free to ask, I appreciate anything and everything!
Here's the situation. I'm trying to help A good friend get his car running. He has the following: 93 Cx hatch, pistons and rods LS, leakboost top mount, GT30R, full leakboost kit, Id1000s, walbro255, AEM EMS, GM 3 bar.... I think thats it.
We threw it all together one night last week, loaded a base tune and adjusted it for all the correct sensors, etc. touched some finishing details up the next day and headed for a tune friday at a local well known tuner. Swapped plugs and strapped it on the dyno. After some loading and adjusting the tuner went to make a pull. This is when it got bad, Anything over 5k and the car was hitting what sounded like anti lag. We determined the distributor was faulty (autozone junk). Took the car back home and found another new distributor. Installed it and re-checked everything. Now with the tuner's basemap and some amatuer tuning I was able to get a nice clean pull to 6250 when it hit a brick wall. Fuel is ok (11.5ish the whole way) It just feels like it looses spark.
At this point I'm frusterated, Started doing some reading online and found that AEM doesn't like aftermarket distributors as they will cause synch loss. We went and found a known good completely OEM GSR distributor threw it on and the damn thing won't even start, Ok, so maybe it wasn't good.... GGRRRRRr. Went and pulled another OEM Ls distributor that was just pulled from a running car... same damn thing. So we figured ok, try one last time, met up with another local who claims to have another verified good OEM distributor. Threw it on and it STARTED!!!!! After a short test drive we found the same "fuel cut" sensation at 6250 again. F%$^!! After disecting the last distributor it was found to be after market.
This leads me to wonder why:
Genuine HONDA OEM distributor = No start, no spark
Aftermarket junk distributors = Start and drive fine but will cut out at 6250/10psi
I'm lost, does anyone have any ideas we can try? if you need anymore info feel free to ask, I appreciate anything and everything!
They don't work well with the factory honda dizzys period. They factory honda cam/crank pickups are junk an don't produce a reliable signal. The factory ecu gets away with it because they have no failsafes in place to account for sync errors like the standalones do. If you want to solve your issues, get either a T1 trigger setup (if you want to keep your dizzy for spark) or get an AEM EPM and convert over to coil on plug.
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