It's a stock b18c5..considering ITR's and all this being stock. I want to know which cams i would be safe with going with and which are gonna benefit me most from TODA's to blox. Same as how big i should go with the throttlebody and what brands are recommended. As well as intake manifold and recommendations on FULL exhaust. i've heard deeper sounding honda's out there and not just cause they were dohc and that's what i'm lookin'[ for. THANKS

 

Let me do this nicely before someone less patient chimes in:

I would recommend using the search function of the website as well as look at the stickied FAQ's in various subsections of the site, such as the All Motor area, etc. Google is also helpful with this stuff.

These questions have been gone over thoroughly and the answers largely depend on what your plans are for the car, budget, etc.

 

^ Well said. Close thread

 

As stated, have a look at some of the information on this site that's directly related to your original questions. Review that information, and then ask your questions. Make your questions as detailed as possible. Your questions will be better received if you show some "due diligence" researching your topics before asking people to tell you how to build your motor. By not doing this, you will subject yourself to abuse from individuals on this site whose only purpose is to fulfill their compelling need to be total a**holes.

 

TODA VTEC KILLERS, D15 VALCVE TRAIN AND 3 HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS, 1 LOW COMPRESSION PISTON. ACL SUPER RACE BEARINGS AND RACE GAS....


WHY??????? BC RACE CAR.

Google is you best friend, you didnt even put what you were going to be using the car for lol. If you want fun power for cheap, I have a full turbo kit for sale for the R. More power and alot cheaper then doing a N/A build.

 

searching isn't going to show you a lot if you don't know what you're looking for. since you live in eastern oregon the closest tuner is www.englishracing.net in camas washington. if you want to keep this thing NA you're going to spend around $2000 to gain 25hp. that's jun3 cams, the matching valvetrain and a quality header. you'll also need an obd1 ecu, the jumper harness and $350 for the tune. which makes it closer to $2500 all said and done. since you own a real type r i highly suggest importing real jun3 cams rather than using the knock off blox type c. the jun cams are also a LOT less likely to fail

 

That is excellent information. Unfortunately you won't get the most from the JUN III's w/o further modifications though. I fully agree that the money spent on JUN III's is well worth it when compared to the lower quality BLOX copies. To get 220+ whp from a B18C5, you need to (correctly) modify literally every aspect of the engine. Going to a local (reputable) racing engine builder for advice is the best way to go. I still think you need to do some research before embarking on a costly engine upgrade/rebuild project. When you work with your engine builder, you will need a certain level of knowledge in order to make reasonably informed decisions related to your engine project.

 

absolutely. but that's a 50hp gain going to 220whp. that's a ported head. more compression. ported manifold, very trick header and time spent experimenting on a tune.

what i mentioned should take him from 170whp to around 195whp. the next phase that you laied out could be done with a total build down the road, my thoughts were if he bought what i mentioned there would still be gains along with being able to go for more should he choose to down the road.

 

Go with quality bolt ons first because no matter what you ARE going to need them unless you plan on going the forced induction route.

 

A stock usdm type R engine will only put down around 160hp to the wheels. You loose about 20% through the driveline. Doing cams, valvetrain, throttle body and exhaust will maybe five you 20 25 hp with a good tune but will cost a pretty penny. I have a 99 Gsr and I know there are different from a itr but I have brian crower stage 2 cams, blox valvetrain, AEBS intake manifold, usdm itr pistons, aem cam gears, comptech intake, rmf header, stright through 2.25 exhaust, 255 fuel pump, rsx injectors, tuned on E85 and I only put down 175 to the wheels.

 

Here is a "stock" 97 r with ignition advanced. Sure, the power under the curve isn't "stock" as a result but you can see the peak numbers didn't change much at all. It's 2whp shy of what you are hitting. From what I have seen, stock usdm r will typically show 165-170. 160 is a touch low. Fwd drivetrain loss is closer to 15% also.

http://www.hondata.com/dyno97typer.html

Hell. With a 98 Gsr with type r pistons, skunk 2 manifold, crappy dc Jdm 4-1, custom crush bent 2.5" exhaust, itr cams, tuned myself on Crome hit 175whp. Stock injectors, stock fuel pump, 91 octane. I'd say something is up with your numbers, but every dyno varies. What numbers you hitting at the track? What chassis is it in?

 

at the bottom of the graph it says type r with mods though. My exhaust is killing my power, it bottle necks then gots to 2.25 so I need to fix that. and my stock throttle body isnt helping either. The cams could be upgraded too to like a pro 1 cam. oh and the motor is in a 99 2 dr integra

 

Oh nvm I didnt read the words at the bottom my bad

 

My stock R put down 173.53WHP and 124.32FT LBS. Stock intake, exhaust, ECU... while it was on a dynojet it has been said by many to be one of the lower reading dynojet dyno's in the area. Also FWD is only a 10-15% loss through drivetrain. Mine shows a 12% loss through drivetrain hence proving the 10-15% that is claimed.