'99 Accord - 2.3l 5sp

I'm low on cash and need to get a clutch and have it replaced fast. I've heard mixed reviews on all the brands available. The car is a daily driver which om easy on most of the time, but I like to beat on it sometimes and probably will take it to the drag strip for ***** and giggles at some point this summer.

So far the clutch kit brands available in my area are:

Duralast (autozone): $100 (lifetime warranty)
Perfection (advance auto): $100
Napa: $130
Exedy: $120
Parts Master?: $150

I believe all come with the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing & alignment tool.

Or I can order a OEM Honda clutch, pressure plate, & throw-out bearing for around $250 by the time its shipped, and have to wait.

I'm leaning towards the Duralast or Exedy kits. The Exedy kits seem pretty good based off of the reviews but are they? I read somewhere that Exedy makes the OEM clutches for Honda? But do they compare in quality?

Should I even worry about the warranty? Duralast's Lifetime VS. Exedy's 12 months, or is it more of a marketing gimmick?


I don't mind paying a little extra, but I just want to have it done once and last.

 

Exedy.

/thread.

 

That's what I thought. Just ordered an Exedy one, but it was actually $150 not $120 (was told it was the wrong price)

Now the question is: get my flywheel resurfaced for $50, get a new Fenco brand flywheel for $50 from autozone, or new" Perfection" flywheel from advance auto?

 

exedy anyday and everyday, just aslong as its installed with a resurfaced flywheel, my exedy clutch lasted a good 70k, but i plan on doing a write-up on installing a clutch into a 4th gen on memorial weekend

best of luck!

 

Exedy from Amazon!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exedy-OEM-Clutch-Kit-Honda-Accord-98-02-2-3L-/310224764514?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item483ad63e62&vxp=mtr


This is what i might get when i do my 5 speed swap i also hear LUK clutches are good

 

I'll just get the flywheel resurfaced then. Gonna be done early next week.
I'll see what its like when its done

 

Any one of the cheap clutches is fine.

 

Just out of curiosity, do these engines not have replaceable pilot bearings for the trans input shaft in the end of the crank or in the flywheel?

Honda does not show one in the schematic/exploded view of the the flywheel or crank.

 

^ i looked into this too, i couldnt find where it went, when i looked at my new Findanza flywheel it already had a small one pressed into it so the XTD clutch kit i got had an extra one but ill look into it on memorial weekend when i do my write-up ona clutch instal into a 4th gen

 

The clutch kit should come with a new pilot bearing. To replace it you'll have to remove the flywheel. If you're getting it resurfaced make sure to remove the pilot bearing first.

you should have just picked one up locally. If it's your daily then Perfection or Duralast would have been fine. I'd just replace the flywheel, It'll save you time.

If you can replace them youself.

I just replaced my clutch and flywheel with perfection parts. I also replaced some other things while I had the car up and the tranny off.

CLutch Plate
Clutch Disk
Throw out Bearing
Pilot Bearning
Flywheel
Rear Main Seal


Oil Pan Gasket
Clutch Slave Cylinder.

 

make sure to do a rear main ehile the flywheel is off. A lighter fly wheel will help wake up that car too... I just did mine a few months ago and love the feel of the light weight flywheel

 

I used a couple, never again. One wasn't a complete Luk clutch. I needed a clutch for someone and needed it yesterday so I bought the Beck/Arnley clutch they had in stock; Exedy disc, Luk pressure plate, SKF release bearing, and no name made in Korea pilot bearing. Didn't have any particular issues with it, but I didn't like the look of the pressure plate, quite a bit different that an Exedy or FCC setup (Both make OEM clutches for Honda)

The other one was in a Toyota Tacoma 4wd. Stock Aisin clutch has a ridiculously heavy pressure plate, fingers are super thick. Luk wasn't like that at all, much thinner. I had release issues with it in a parking lot one day and I have no idea why. It only happened once and I never did find out exactly what happened, felt and sounded like it spit a spring but I checked it a year later during an engine swap and it was fine

Exedy acts, looks and feels like an OEM clutch because it is an OEM clutch. Should be good for 160 - 200k miles or more.

Btw, the cheap parts store clutches are usually some combination of various clutch kits, back in the day the dynapak civic clutch kits usually consisted of an OEM/Daikin/Exedy pressure plate, a Valeo disc and some random bearings.

 

I picked up the Exedy clutch kit locally and it did not have the pilot bearing for the input shaft. But neither does any of the clutch kits I've researched and looked at. None of the parts stores or suppliers list a pilot bearing or bushing for this car. hmmm

I just was reading somewhere that that the F-series engines do not use pilot bearings (f23a1). That would explain why its not on the schematics, but if it doesn't use them what does it use if not a bearing or bushing?

What supports the trans input shaft?

 

I haven't looked at the F-series specifically, but I'd guess a brass bushing like most other vehicles that don't use a bearing.

Btw, some vehicles don't have anything to support the input shaft, it just floats ('05+ Tacomas are like this)

 

I see, I see. Kinda weird

I'm guessing mine is unsupported also since it doesn't list a bushing either?

I'm used to dealing with trucks or SBC's so I got a bit to learn yet.

 

Exedy clutch is in as of this past week. It feels pretty soft, almost too soft compared to what I'm used to but I can live with it.

Anyway dispute being new, the clutch engagement point is still way up at the top of the pedal (when releasing the pedal) as if the clutch is worn. The previous owner told me it was always like this even before the clutch was replaced.

I know the pedal is adjustable, but do I need tot spin the nut on the master cylidner rod in or out to adjust this? Does the slave cylinder have an adjustment also?

 

You can adjust the pedal without messing with the master cylinder.

have you checked the master cylinder reservoir? could be low.

 

It's adjustable, but not in the way I think you think it is. If you follow the procedure in the service manual it shows you how to set the free play and disengagement height. When you're done wherever it engages is where it's supposed to engage. It may or may not be where you want it, leave it there. If you adjust it too far one way you'll have issues with it dragging and not fully releasing. Too far the other way and it'll slip and you wont have any free play.

 

I would stay away from perfection clutch kits in general. Ive had to pull my Tran 3 times now because of defective Throwout bearings. First one when bad in under 50 miles. took it back and couldnt get all of my money back threw advance without returning the whole kit. I went threw all 3 kits in the store. 2 of the kits bearings were locked up. the 3rd one was almost as bad as the one i was returning. so i took it home and greased it. which i shouldn't be able to do because its a sealed bearing... that one squealed from the moment i started it up. so i did it again pulled the bearing and went to a different advance. took that bearing and it didnt make it threw a test run in my garage. im in a pinch now and need my car this weekend but im pulling the whole clutch kit and new fly wheel and returning it all. Im going to put my old clutch back in and i guess get a dealership bearing or one from autozone. I used to work for advance and bought all of my parts there, ive gotten one defective oil pump, 2 defective head gaskets, and 2 bad cv axles. never again will i buy parts there