- H22 Head Complete.
- H22 Intake Manifold Complete.
- H22 Head Studs.
- H22 Waterpipe & Thermostat Housing.
- H22 Inner Crank Gear.
- H22 Waterpump.
- H22 Headgasket.
- H22 Timing Belt.
- Removal of H23 Oil Plug.

Ok. I have that list for the H23/22 Frankenstein. I have a complete engine of both (And a second H23 Block but it's going to take a lot of work for that to be worth anything). I need just a little bit more info before I decide to rip my H23 apart too. Where is the oil plug that has to be removed? Do you use the H22 Pistons? And how do you have to modify the Oil Squirters for the Pistons, do you just bend them a little or do you have to do something crazy with them? I've looked around and found info, but it's all the same as above and no one really answers those 3 questions. When I start, after I get those questions answered, I'm going to make a complete write-up with pictures.

 

As far as I know you will be better off with the H22 pistons, slightly more compression.

 

Pictures are cool.

 

Ya that's what I figured about the pistons but the real question is which rods do you use? The H23 rods with the H22 Pistons or the H22 Rods? I would guess the H23 rods but I'm not sure if the'yre different sizes.

Edit: I didn't know I had 2 logins. I must have made the other one after this one. Lol.

 

Yes H23 rods are slightly shorter. Using H22 pistons may be cutting valve clearance close, however I have sen many run h22 pistons with h23 rods with no problems. However if I am wrong im sure I will be corrected .

 

28 pages of discussion ...

how to: H23VTEC, H23 VTEC, H23/VTEC (search friendly)

 

If you want to take new pictures, that would be awesome.

I'm sure all of the hosted links are dead by now

 

The plug that you remove is very easy to recognize once the head is off of the h23 bottom end.

Oil squirters may be easy to make work, but when I built my engine, I thought that I would rather have more oil going to the crank, since it was getting extra load compared to the H22 crank, so I used the h23 plug in the block instead of the squirters, and I also did a full balance shaft delete.

For pistons, look at what you get for compression and deck height using the Zeal calulator, by trying different combos. Mine was H23 crank and rods, and JDM H22 pistons, about as far as I would go without extensive measuring when assembling, and hardcore tuning afterwards, and some people may not even feel safe with that, but it ran great!

 

I'm planning on doing this build in my H2b this year, hopefully.

I'm planning on using the H22 block, H23 crank and rods, and Type-S pistons.

My H22 already has the B/S delete and H23 tensioner conversion. I already have all the parts to do it, minus a rebuild kit, I just don't want to take the motor out yet. I have some tranny issues I'm working out before I want to pull it all apart again.

As a side note, I'm now using TWM ITBs and E85 on a base map I got from a friend with the ITBs.

 

Ok. Based on some research today I will be using the H23 connecting rods. They're about 2mm shorter so the H22 rods would probably smack the valves. The oil plug is a no brainer, I was thinking it was somewhere stupid. Didn't realize it was chilling right on top between cylinder 2 and 3. Lol. So ill have H23 rods with H22 pistons for the compression. I'm ordering new rod and main bearings and thrust washers. Might as well replace them while its gutted and I'm going to get the rods and crank checked just for piece of mind. Ill keep posts on the development.

 

Clearance your bearings properly.

 

H23a rods and f22 rods are the same, just an fyi

 

What you mean? I'm just getting the stock m/r bearings since the internals are going to be all stock anyway.

 

there is more than one "stock" bearing.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/honda-bearing-color-thickness-chart-everyone-who-loves-using-oem-bearings-715490/

RIP earl

 

Oh. Ya I always do that. The codes and colors are under the flywheel if I remember correctly. When I rebuilt my girl-friends H22 I had to do the same.

Edit: But that's also B Series, not H. The company I get all my machine work and internal parts from has a book that shows that same chart but for H series also. I've rebuilt 4 engines through them now.