Hello!! I just finish doing a full routine on my 1999 civic ex. I changed my tranny fluid, engine oil, spark plugs, and did a valve lash adjustment. I adjusted my valves to - .007-.009 Intake, and .009-.011 Exhaust. I had to do it twice as the first time I messed up using a solid .008, and .010. After the first time, I had horrible ticking, and my car would drive pretty bad. Bad meaning: Car revs from 2000 to 1500 during cold start, and once hot, car would idle at 1500 and rumbles the car. Another problem on top of this is when I would let go of the gas pedal in any gear, the car would have this jerking motion. When I would shift gear, I would feel a slight jerk because I am letting go of the gas pedal. Now after I adjusted it again to the correct specs, and tested each and every valve three times. The ticking went away, but every other problem still continues. The idles is slightly better once the engine is hot, but would still get a rumble. I also think I incorrectly put my valve cover on incorrectly as oil is shooting from somewhere. Also I think I poured too much oil after the 2nd adjustment. I think there is about 5-6 quarts inside, and after I poured more oil, there is oil shooting from somewhere. Is this because I poured too much? Also the idle issue and driving issue, could this still be from the valves or spark plugs? Please help! Thank you!

P.S: I regret doing the valve adjustment because before this, all I had was a bad cold start up, now it’s everything.

 

Did you adjust the valves correctly?

 

I hope so. After driving it, I waited about 3 hours before started to work on it. After I took everything off, and rotated the Cam to TDC (Counter Clockwise). I than adjust the exhaust to .009-.010, and make sure there is a slight drag. I tested it by inserting the feeler guage one size bigger in. If the one size bigger does not go in, I proceed to the next valve. Do you think this could be a valve adjustment issue?? If so ill attempt again when its dead cold. Also I am using old school beam torque wrench, and been having a hard time (crossing my eyes on the needle) pin pointing it exactly at 14 lb. Will this cause any issues? Thank you for the fast response as well.

 

Did you adjust adjust them all on tdc without moving the crank?

 

No, I rotate them 90 degress after I finish each valve. I finished first set, rotated it so the line would be on top, and the UP sign will be to the left. Then I would work on the 3, then rotated it another 90 degrees, and the UP would be on the bottom, and I work on 4. Than finally rotated one more time and UP is to the right and worked on 2.

 

Can a MOD please move this to Civic/Del Sol Section, I accidentally open a thread in this section. Thank you!

 

tell me real quick you used the correct tool for the adjuster and held it in place while you tightend it down?

If you had the problem before adjusting I would look at other things as your issue like the IACV.. ,ight need to clean it out

 

I used a 10mm to hold the bolt, while I used a flat head to tighten/loosened. Before all this I didn't have this issue :/. The whole process, I changed out my spark plugs as well, and was wondering if that could cause issue.

 

if valve lash is fine, check spark plug gap, idle speed and iacv, ignition timing, and make sure there isnt oil in any spark plug holes or somewhere else it shouldnt be...get the level correct. take dist cap off and make sure oil isnt in there either

 

When I was installing the spark plugs, my magnet socket dropped them in not to lightly. Basically I bought the socket with the magnet, and when I was trying to put the spark plugs in, they would fall off the magnet and slide down the well. Would this cause the spark plug to change the gap? Also, yesterday I drained all my oil and there was 4 extra quart…. Replaced with 3.5 quarts correctly. Also since there was so much oil, I believe the oil shot out and it is in the well on the 4th cylinder. I will check the others once I get home from work. Thank you!

 

yes u should recheck gap if that happened. i gap mine to .044" and use some long needle nose pliers to set the plugs in gently

 

Ok, I will start with that. Because I am pretty sure I correctly adjusted my valves. Also this problem I have, seem like it happens every other time I turn my car on. This is very weird, because today when I was driving to work it was smooth other then the cold start idle. I will head to autozone to grab a gapper. Also is it ok for the oil to drain into the cylinder if I pull the spark plug out?

 

Hey guys, my obd ii scanner just arrived today (thank god). I got a few codes that poped up. One, which I already knew, was the o2 sensor. Code 131,141. The other two deals with idle, and I wonder if this could be the cause as well. I also got code P0505, and P0325. One is ICS malfunction and the other is a Knock Sensor malfunction. Would these cause my car to act like how I explained?? I will be taking apart my engine again first thing in the morning to make sure my valves are 100% correct (for the third time). Please advise if these two codes could be the issue! Thank you!!

 

Yes having an inoperable Knock sensor and IACV could very well cause your engine to run poorly.

I would look into fixing the primary O2 (P0131), secondary O2 (P0141), knock sensor (P0325) and IACV (P0505) error codes. Then once you have fixed those, if the issue has not been resolved, you can go back to checking your valve adjustment.

Check to make sure all of the connections for these sensors are clean and tight. You may have knocked/pulled them loose while working around the engine compartment.

 

After looking around, I found DIY guides to clean the IACV, but the knock sensor was harder to find. The only information I found on it was it was under the intake. Is this true? And would it be easy to just remove and reinstall?

 

It should be the other way ,use the 10mm to break it free and use a flat head for adjustment , then hold the flat head as still as possible and tighten the 10mm w/o moving the flathead. OR is it just not writen correctly?

 

I wrote it incorrectly, the way you stated was the method I used. However, I fixed it today! After 3 band-aids and 2 hours or taking everything apart. I took off my valve cover to test the lash and it was perfect, changed the oil (once again), sealed the gasket correctly, new spark plug seal, and the final thing I did was clean the IACV. I really think cleaning the IACV fixed my problem. No more idle, car runs like a champ, and its smoother than ever. I am very sorry to keep insisting the valve was the issue! Thank you everyone for the help! Also the knock sensor was on tight, so I think I might have to replace it soon. I am planning to change my o2 sensor, both of them, and hopfully improve my car a bit more. Once again! Thanks everyone for the help. Anyway I can donate to all that help? LOL

 

I spoke too soon. After driving it long enough for the engine to get heated, the problem came back. I fixed the idle problem with the IACV, but the jerking problem still persist. Also I realize that there is an oil burning smell when this problem occurs. The jerking feeling happens after driving the car for a while. Could this be another problem?

 

I would say to keep on with the sensor replacement...knock, O2, and IACV can be the difference between a lousy ride and a smooth one. Also, since oil was all over your engine I would definitely check and clean the inside of the distributor first, then check ALL of the electrical connections near the engine. I had a problem way back with oil getting into my injector connectors...

 

Have you fixed the error codes situation yet? or at least tested the knock sensor????

 

I won't be able to change out the o2 sensor anytime soon, but how would I be able to test the knock sensor? This problem seem to only happen once my car warms up and been driving for a while. Will the knock sensor affect this? I am planning to take apart my distributor and see if there is any problem with that. I see the knock sensor behind the intake, but did not know how to test it. My knock sensor is green, is this correct?

 

This thread is for a 1999 Honda Civic EX. Can someone please move this thread.

btw I believe it does matter where you do make the measurement. For some cars its the lobe, for some its under the valve set screw. Lastly, I hope ur doing the correct cylinders. Starting with next to the timing belt side, that's cylinder 1, going to left while standing in front of the car, it goes 2 then 3 then 4 next to distributor. I would drain the oil. Then add 4 quarts. Having too much oil will make your car run like crap and can blow out seals.

 

I know its more time-consuming...but I find it easier to adjust the valve clearance on each individual valve when the lowest part of the cam lobe is at the arm. That way is fail-safe....and even if your timing is off for some ungodly reason, it will still allow you to adjust the clearances properly

 

A screwed up knock sensor will effect engine performance & the iac will screw up off idle performance also as for putting your plugs in just use a piece of rubber fuel line to remove and install them that way they don't fall in and screw up your plug gap. And I also adjust my valves 1 at a time to avoid problems...my 2.3 vtec is at 213,546 miles and runs like a champ yet..gotta love these hondas..well good luck