trying to tune my vafc and am getting frustrated. does anyone have some base settings they could share? my mods are: cai, DC ceramic header, GReddy EVO cat-back, and the vafc. any info here would be apreciated. oh yeah, its a 5g base lude 5spd.

 

Don't try to tune your VAFC using people's settings, and don't guess. Get your car to a shop, and have and it dyno tuned. You'll see some nice gains then.


[Modified by blacklude, 4:13 PM 10/13/2002]

 

couldn't have said it any better. Your car is not the same as anyone else's on this board so you must use your own settings. Now those settings are to be determined by someone who KNOWS what they are doing and can tune this thing with a wideband O2 sensor on the dyno.

 

I'll probably be going through the same headaches when I get my VAFC soon. I live in Denver and I don't really think there are that many preformance shops here that are familar with the VAFC.
I know Denver has DYNO shops so I better learn how to tune it myself.

 

iknow every lil amount helps when trying to go fast.. but im just curious.. do u think that the VAFC is worth it? i mean its like 3 bills rite? i neva had a vtec controller.. just wondering...

 

I think its worth you're able to control the point at which VTEC engages (anywhere from 4500 RPMs to 6500 RPMs *I think*), You can also control the point at which VTEC disengages, and most notably you can make the fuel mixture more lean or more rich.

 

Also, some mods like CAIs tend to make your car run richer than stock, to its a good way to balance the effect of you other mods. I'm about to find out if a vafc gives any gains on a stock car. I'll keep you guys posted.


[Modified by piotrush, 8:28 PM 10/13/2002]

 

I just installed my field sfc, and am going to get it dyno tuned this week. I tried running the thing @ 0% across the r's, and the check engine light came on. Leaned out 0-5000r's 3% and light went away. Ran it hard and light came on again, ran 3% rich from 5 to 8,000r's. Can anyone help me w/ the vtm wire? It's a green and white wire on the field unit, the one you're supposed to run to the ecu side and cap off the engine side. My car wouldn't run right after installing, then we disconected the vtm and reconnected stock vtm wires and it was fine. Now my vtec engagement relies strictly upon rpm's, not engine temp, or oil pressure. WTF? any help please.

 

thanx for all the input guys. looks like its time to schedule some dyno time.

 

I also just got my VAFC installed. I moved my VTEC engagement point down to 3500 and dis- at 3100. It made a difference in my 1/4 time. I've got a stock Accord and since I put the intake on there it's sucking alot of air. I'd like to give it more fuel on the top end, and I know where to do it, I'm just not REAL sure of how much to change at one time. It looks like if you go + with it, that it should compensate for the lack of fuel. I'd like more input in it though.

I can't find anyone who can say "If you change this to <whatever> you'll get more fuel. The other setting you use to keep the VAFC and ECU from fighting says it'll increase tunability, but I would like to have it spelled out for me more before I go into alot of changes at one time.

I've got the right idea of what I should do, I just don't have enough information to make it happen. Any information you guys could share would be appreciated.

 

3500 is too low, your loseing from going to the high cam soo early...you need to get it tuned, but at least change the vtec to 4500-4800 engage

 

he's talking about a sohc f22 -