kinda.

I had a small oil leak, but needed to drive 4 hours because I had to move. I brought oil along to fill it up along the way. After driving for an hour coolant sprayed everywhere, smoke billowed out of the engine bay, and a knock developed. I immediately put in the clutch and turned the car off, coasting to the side of the highway.

I see myself as having 3 options:
Fix whatever broke (parts cost, time, and hassle of complete diagnosis makes this sound no fun)

A new motor (at least). I've been searching high and low for a D16Y8 to serve as a direct replacement, but they are hard to find. The only ones I've found cost more than my car is worth. I've found various other motors that some people say will fit and be an easy swap, but there are also people who say it isn't possible.

These are a few of the candidates:
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218...=civic%20motor
http://www.attarco.com/index.php?mai...products_id=95
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218...=&search=d16y7

The first one's a crapshoot because so little information, and no guarantees.

The second engine comes with a 6 month warranty and can be delivered to my door for 600$. That's by far the cheapest thing I've found.

The third comes with a transmission so I could recoup some money by selling my d16y8 tranny, and I could drive a few hours to pick it up (tons of gas money for the truck though).


What should I do? The information on what is required to swap in a different motor seems to vary from website to website and engine salesperson to salesperson.

I want my car to move again

 

car-part.com

 

Without doubting your resources, I'm surprised at how much a D series sells for in a city like Dallas! I thought you'd be able to find them for much cheaper. Regardless, $600 for a fresh motor with warranty isn't bad at all. If you can afford a bit more for option #3, that seems like the best option. At least then you get a newer transmission with no compatibility issues and the ability to sell your old one.

 

How much could I sell my d16y8 tranny for? The third one has 160000 miles is what concerns me. All I would need to do is swap the ECU for it to work though, right? Just change from P2P to...

 

To put a d16y7 into my d16y8 all I would need to do is switch the ECU, correct?

 

easiest way to do this, is to just use another y8, your in to a few conversions in order to properly use the y7 and it's ecu. do some research on here and ff squad

 

the problem is that there are no d16y8 engines are available within 500 miles. I prefer to spend less money and do more work as I have tons of tools and time.

Which engine (d seRIes) gets the best mpg in an ej8? Also what is ff?

 

FF= front engine, front wheel drive. Its just a specifacation showing the drivetrain layout for the engines intended application.

 

Well since you have Vtec you're going to want to keep it. That leaves teh D16Y8 and D16Z6

 

So I can't switch to non-vtec? I will be using the car for deliveries, so absolutely care about MPG, not performance. As long as it will do 80 mph top I will be fine. I almost never hit the vtec when I used the d16y8, I babied it...hoping to avoid the explosion it recently suffered.

 

if you have tons of tools AND time, start doing more research on here, there is a search button eh, also ff squad is a website, google it, it has some of the info you need in order to run a y7 and the corresponding P2E ecu

 

For the little extra it will cost to get the D16Y8 it will save you the headaches of rigging the Y7.

 

You can switch to a non-vtec motor. Best mileage, you want to hunt down a Y5. The conversion can be a bit on the pricey side though, especially with the 5 wire O2 you'll need. I'd find a Y7 and drop it in there.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-98-HONDA-...c61e5d&vxp=mtr

 

That's a good find. Would I need to change anything to go from OBD2B (99) to OBD2A (96)? Or would it be all plug n play?

I searched FF squad and their site hasn't been updated in 6 years, and they don't really have any information about downgrading from a d16y8 to a d16y7.

Almost all the info I find is about doing a mini-me swap, not putting a d16y7 into a d16y8. I think I'm the only person who doesn't want to have a honda racecar...

 

So I found this for putting d16y8 into d16y7. Can I do this backwards? Swap ECU, use use same wiring harness (from d16y8), but just cut out the VTEC solenoid, pressure switch, and knock sensor? Then wire IN the intake air temperature sensor?



"OBD2 engine into OBD2 vehicle using OBD2 ECU

D16Y8 using P2P ECU

DX/LX/CX - D16Y7
Mostly plug and play. VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch and knock sensor will need to be wired in (Figure 6 for OBD2A, Figure 7 for OBD2B). Also the idle air control valve will need to be wire from 3 wire to 2 wire (Figure 6 for OBD2A, Figure 7 for OBD2B). The secondary O2 sensor wiring will have to be lengthened by using an O2 adapter if you are using an EX style catalytic converter. The intake air temperature sensor will have to be relocated in the intake arm somewhere as the Y8 manifold doesn't have a place for it (see figure 8)."

 

I found a d16y8 from a 1997 that's only 6 hours away.

Will i need to do anything to switch from obd2b to a obd2A engine?

 

Reuse your distributor.

 

Make sure you don't just have to replace a $4 hose?

 

Just to check back in...I ended up buying a motor from someone who said it was a d16y8. I drove 4 hours to pick it up, looked at the stamp on the block...NOT a d16y8.

So I stripped that motor down to the bottom end and put in place of my bottom end. Took me a long time since I was working full time, but the car is still on the road now. I made a huge mistake by NOT replacing the clutch, as a year later it is now slipping. I do not look forward to doing the clutch myself OR paying someone else to do it.


Next project: Add USB power ports for my dash-mounted cell phone with OBD2 bluetooth adapter and the Torque android app. Cool stuff!