anyone know why my car looks like this??
Because something is wrong with the suspension.
My guess is, by the white fender that doesn't match rhe car, that the car was involved in some sort of accident.
The LCA, steering knuckle, radius rod, and crossmembers need to be checked out.
My guess is, by the white fender that doesn't match rhe car, that the car was involved in some sort of accident.
The LCA, steering knuckle, radius rod, and crossmembers need to be checked out.
Trending Topics
or the shock is stuck and not being compress by the weight of the car.
check to see if the radias arm bushings are shot, or the bolts are loose at the front crossmember. or someone smoked a curb and like previous posters said, your suspension is fukkkked! if thats the case, replace wheelbearing,knuckle assembly, lca, inspect the strut and mid cross member for cracks, kinks or bends
Yes radius rods are what I'd check first, namely if the bushings are missing and/or bolts are missing/loose.
Can you hold the wheel itself and move it forwards/backwards while car is secure on jackstands, or is it stationary?
Can you hold the wheel itself and move it forwards/backwards while car is secure on jackstands, or is it stationary?
what motor is in it.....my lsvtec ef snapped the front traction bar and thats what my wheel looked like....DO NOT drive it you will **** up axels, struts balljoints
Jeez.... Your CASTER is way out...
Radius rods don't cause that at all, not with caster like that, I bought a CRX in Georgia years ago that had the same problem, stop leading this guy in the wrong direction if you don't know what you're talking about, there's enough of that on this site already.
To sum it up, You have a bent / twisted upper control arm (If the LCA was bent, Your car WOULD NOT DRIVE STRAIGHT, PERIOD), First, Measure from hub center to hub center front to back (The very inside of the wheel where the hole is for the wheel cap), Find out how far off your driver side is from your passenger side (This is for orientation after you've replaced your bent UCA to check how much your wheel has moved forward and a to give you a good idea if you've got anything else bent), Remove the Upper Control Arm on your driver side and inspect it around where the ball joint is mounted inside of it on the end, If it looks twisted or cocked to one side, replace it, this should solve your problem, for the record, caster is not adjustable on these cars, if your caster is ever out on an ED/EE/EF Chassis, You have something bent, simple as that, You can pretty much look at the Upper Control Arm on the passenger side with the wheel off and compare it to the driver side if you're lazy and don't feel like pulling it off.
And for the record, My caster was out just as bad as his is, and My car drove straight for 6 months and never caused any issues with my axles, this is not going to crucially damage your car, its just going to look like total hell and probably wear out your ball joints a little quicker, a lot of drag racers used to run offset caster on cars to make them hook up better and straighter, ask some of the old guys around your town that were into muscle cars back in the 60's / 70's if you don't believe me.
Good Luck.
P.S. Just by looking at that picture, You can see that the Upper Control Arm is twisted back, forcing the spindle back towards the firewall, Hence you wheel's caster placement.
Radius rods don't cause that at all, not with caster like that, I bought a CRX in Georgia years ago that had the same problem, stop leading this guy in the wrong direction if you don't know what you're talking about, there's enough of that on this site already.
To sum it up, You have a bent / twisted upper control arm (If the LCA was bent, Your car WOULD NOT DRIVE STRAIGHT, PERIOD), First, Measure from hub center to hub center front to back (The very inside of the wheel where the hole is for the wheel cap), Find out how far off your driver side is from your passenger side (This is for orientation after you've replaced your bent UCA to check how much your wheel has moved forward and a to give you a good idea if you've got anything else bent), Remove the Upper Control Arm on your driver side and inspect it around where the ball joint is mounted inside of it on the end, If it looks twisted or cocked to one side, replace it, this should solve your problem, for the record, caster is not adjustable on these cars, if your caster is ever out on an ED/EE/EF Chassis, You have something bent, simple as that, You can pretty much look at the Upper Control Arm on the passenger side with the wheel off and compare it to the driver side if you're lazy and don't feel like pulling it off.
And for the record, My caster was out just as bad as his is, and My car drove straight for 6 months and never caused any issues with my axles, this is not going to crucially damage your car, its just going to look like total hell and probably wear out your ball joints a little quicker, a lot of drag racers used to run offset caster on cars to make them hook up better and straighter, ask some of the old guys around your town that were into muscle cars back in the 60's / 70's if you don't believe me.
Good Luck.
P.S. Just by looking at that picture, You can see that the Upper Control Arm is twisted back, forcing the spindle back towards the firewall, Hence you wheel's caster placement.
Last edited by dohccrxsi; May 8, 2012 at 06:03 PM.
And Also, Changing to 14"/15" Steelies will make it seem like the caster isn't off, But I assure you it still is, the wheel diameter profile on the smaller sized rim is what makes it appear less drastic, been there, done that.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shm91
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
26
Feb 6, 2013 10:58 AM
Opie
Acura Integra Type-R
13
May 20, 2004 09:47 AM








