yellow maintenance light is on?
i just topped off my oil with syntec blend 5w30, and my maintenance light came on? anybody know what that means- also im about to do the clutch anybody know of a good brand to go with and some how to manuals-98 lude sh
155,000 miles, vtec, standard, also feels like its running boggy?
The maintenance required square in the cluster is for reminding you to change your oil
It is green after being reset by putting in your ignition key when changing the oil
7500mi. after being reset it changes to amber if it has not been reset with the key (7500mi is Honda's recommendation for the oil change interval)
at 10,000mi. after being reset it changes to red
This indicator is only to remind you to change your oil, and is connected to the odometer only nothing else
It is green after being reset by putting in your ignition key when changing the oil
7500mi. after being reset it changes to amber if it has not been reset with the key (7500mi is Honda's recommendation for the oil change interval)
at 10,000mi. after being reset it changes to red
This indicator is only to remind you to change your oil, and is connected to the odometer only nothing else
And by putting in your key he means the slot right next to the little square light. Though I don't think you need your key.. as far as I know anything works so long as you press it down enough.
As far as the clutch, do a search on YouTube or really anywhere but be sure to give yourself plenty of time to do it. It's not a fun job at all doing it for the first time (or any time after that). I'd say use oem materials because if you go for one with one aftermarket that's more grabby than you need its going to be terrible to drive. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE FLYWHEEL RESURFACED WHEN YOU PUT IN A NEW CLUTCH. Ive seen good clutches go bad quick without that.
As far as the clutch, do a search on YouTube or really anywhere but be sure to give yourself plenty of time to do it. It's not a fun job at all doing it for the first time (or any time after that). I'd say use oem materials because if you go for one with one aftermarket that's more grabby than you need its going to be terrible to drive. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE FLYWHEEL RESURFACED WHEN YOU PUT IN A NEW CLUTCH. Ive seen good clutches go bad quick without that.
He probably needs a whole tune-up if he doesn't even know about the maintenance light (no offense). Cars run a whole lot better when they are treated right. If you just bought it or have never done the following, I suggest: oil change, new sparkplugs/wires, fuel injection cleaner, new air filter....if it still feels boggy after that $100 is put into it (BASIC maintenance for that mileage), then I would check for codes.
(also, whenever you get another $100 or so, if it is a little bit tappity/chattery at the top end of the engine, you are probably due for a valve-lash adjustment.)
btw, I suggest the tuneup before the code-check because if you are feeling it boggy and feeling the clutch slip, I assume that you are "getting into the gas pedal". If you are gonna run it hard, you need to treat it with some TLC. lay off the pedal until you know the car is atleast equipped with the tune-up.
(also, whenever you get another $100 or so, if it is a little bit tappity/chattery at the top end of the engine, you are probably due for a valve-lash adjustment.)
btw, I suggest the tuneup before the code-check because if you are feeling it boggy and feeling the clutch slip, I assume that you are "getting into the gas pedal". If you are gonna run it hard, you need to treat it with some TLC. lay off the pedal until you know the car is atleast equipped with the tune-up.
He probably needs a whole tune-up if he doesn't even know about the maintenance light (no offense). Cars run a whole lot better when they are treated right. If you just bought it or have never done the following, I suggest: oil change, new sparkplugs/wires, fuel injection cleaner, new air filter....if it still feels boggy after that $100 is put into it (BASIC maintenance for that mileage), then I would check for codes.
(also, whenever you get another $100 or so, if it is a little bit tappity/chattery at the top end of the engine, you are probably due for a valve-lash adjustment.)
btw, I suggest the tuneup before the code-check because if you are feeling it boggy and feeling the clutch slip, I assume that you are "getting into the gas pedal". If you are gonna run it hard, you need to treat it with some TLC. lay off the pedal until you know the car is atleast equipped with the tune-up.
(also, whenever you get another $100 or so, if it is a little bit tappity/chattery at the top end of the engine, you are probably due for a valve-lash adjustment.)
btw, I suggest the tuneup before the code-check because if you are feeling it boggy and feeling the clutch slip, I assume that you are "getting into the gas pedal". If you are gonna run it hard, you need to treat it with some TLC. lay off the pedal until you know the car is atleast equipped with the tune-up.
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this is my first honda, i did the brakes and oil about 4 months ago, ive noticed that it burns oil-about a quart a week, i reallly want to learn as much as i can about this car because i love driving it and i totally understand about the TLC- but even when i dont run it hard i can feel the clutch grinding through the stick shift at 4500 rpm, and that doesnt feel right, anybody know what a shop would charge for a clutch job?
The muffled sound....hmmm..guess I would have to be there. If you are taking care of the basic maintenance, you can always check the timing and make sure it's not off by a degree. Timing being off will cause a bogging/muffled sound bc the inflow>>outflow timing is not at peak performance.
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blackriceman
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Mar 29, 2004 08:33 PM




